I am currently running the standard diff setup in my 12L3. Should I be running a IRS big diff setup for stock 1/12th carpet racing at Stockton?

Bill-
A big ring diff is far better than the stealth diff. If you use the right kind of spur gear you can build a diff using 12 balls which will be a lot smoother and last a lot longer than the 6 ball small diff. The only disadvantage to a big ring diff is a little more weight. Theoretically, the small diff should be faster, but I don't think it's enough to outweigh the hassle of rebuilding it every heat. Since you are running at Stockton, just ask Ruben, Ashby or me to show you the difference.
O'D

BTW- the IRS diff is good, but if you want the best buy Niftech.

What is the difference between the Parma Gray rear tires, and the Parma Pink rear tires. The both have a shore rating of 30.

Can someone please help me out? Thanks.

The pinks have more bite than the grays. At our track most guys run grays for stock and whites or pinks for modified.
O'D

Thanks.

I'm trying to find out if there is active 1/12th scale racing in the Phoenix Az area. Carpet preferred.

what camber should i start with on carpet on my C12?

This is probably a stupid question but I don't see any talk of the XRAY T1M on this thread. Is it not legal for 1/12 racing?

I am interested in a 1/12 pavement car (no carpet) and would prefer a 4wd car. Are only 2wd cars used to race 1/12?

Bruce

Just because the T1M is 1/12th scale doesn't mean it's legal for racing. If you are talking ROAR of IFMAR, then only straight rear axles are allowed. I don't think any national or international sanctioning body has a class for cars like the Yokomo Mini, T1M or the Corally 1/12th touring car chassis. At the club level some tracks may allow mixing these two classes, but the 4 wheel drive car wouldn't stand a chance against conventional 1/12th cars unless there was no traction at all.
O'D

Tony,

If you're gonna be at Larry's, run 1.5 degrees. If you are at the RcScrewz track, run 1 degree. If you are at Halo, I had good luck with 2 degrees. When you set the camber, only give about a quarter of a turn of pre-load on the flex plate adjustment screw after it touches the arm. I also run the screw in the outer hole on the plate for stock and in the middle for mod.

Tim

Hey all! I just wanted to ask what is the easiest way to fix traction roll problem. I have an RC12L4 and running blue spring with stock setup pretty much. I have thick t-bar. Jaco purple, grey combo. However at high speeds I still traction roll. I am running 3mm ride height and really small diameter tires.

Any suggestions for goop on the pod or hingepins? Hope to figure it out soon

I want to ask another question while I am at it. I will be racing stock 1/12th at Cleveland for the first time in 12 years! I noticed quite a few people commenting on lowering the "pod" for the 12L4??? Is this referring to the holes for bearing holders go in arn't low enough? Anyways my question is if I want to purchase the "upgrade pod" What part numbers from CRC do I look for? I know that CRC will have a booth so I am sure I will be able to purchase them if I feel I need it.

What size tires for stock carpet do you guys run? I am running 46mm(about 1.7" i think) with just over 3mm rideheight(which I think is legal limit for Cleveland?)

Thanks, Mike

Zoof--The CRC booth should be able to help you when you get there. I usually start my rear tires at 1.9 for stock and 1.85 for mod.

Hey guys,

I'm having problem finding the part# for the L4 front end, especially the new graphite brace and the hinge pin.

What are the part #'s for

Castor blocks
hinge pins
shims
graphite brace

thanks,
Dom

Hey Dom
Here are the P/N's you need
4564 Cross Brace, Graphite
4561 Upper Suspension Mount 0, 5, and 10 degree
4569 Hinge Pin, Titanium with castor shims
You will also need 3862 5-40x1/8" Set Screws

Wes B