Buds used to make a pivot ball tool to remove the balls.

I think IRS and Niftech both make brass balls for the front end and for the T-Bar.

The latest batches from Associated fit fine, the ones last year were Junk.

Ray - I assume you are referring to a pack with a 70mah capacity. The best charging rate in always 1/10 the capacity, or in this case 7 mah. However, that charge rate usually ends up taking about 12 hours to complete the charge, unacceptable. So, push it up a little to around 15 mah. And just so you know, the lowest charge rate on the CE Turbo35 Stealth is 15 mah. I usually put the peak detect at .02 for these cells unless they false peak a lot. Then I bump it up till it doesn't false peak. I hope that helps. See you tomorrow.

The tool I use is from RaceTech. The bad news is that they are out of business.

About the metal pivot balls from IRS. They are aluminum that has been hard anodized with a telon impegnation type coating. You might notice a little flash on the ID, but it goes away with a little running, or you can knock it off with a hobby knife.

IRS has a little 1/12 oval rocket on their website. It was designed by Duane Silva and it really, really good.

Sorry I stepped on your post as I was drafting mine at the same time. Say hello when you arrive tomorrow.

Anyone have a L4 they are looking to get rid of?

Re: Re: Shock issues
 

Wes,

I appreciate it and it looks as though I am NOT the only person having these issues with CRC shocks.

Mike

Re: Re: Re: Shock issues
 

Well-technically-its not a CRC problem-its a link car problem-any link car. YOu dont really see t-bar cars do this becuase the rear pod can only move so far back-unless the t-bar breaks-in which case you got a lot bigger problems. And yes-having a tad more droop will help-but its not really the proper set-up to have excessive droop in the cars. The only solutions are the Silva shock or a new star clip.

Silva shock is the only way to go....
Every thing I have that used micro shocks now has a Silva on it....

AE should include it in the kits.....

fatdoggy: I read that site all the time...
It has some great info....

Try Jake’s Performance Hobbies in Rohnert Park, CA.. Jake has a beautiful 1/12th oval conversion kit that he has done a lot of development work on and, I think he currently has a special introductory price going on right now. Jake is an oval fanatic and a really great guy! He will help you with other oval parts as well as setups. He also carries the full line of Silva components and other oval manufacture's parts.

Jake's Performance Hobbies
707-586-3375
www.jphracing.com

Anyone who runs a speedmerchant?
 

Does the pivot balls fit associated front end?:o

Awesome fatdoggy; cheers.

1/12
 

What's better for 19T and carpet.....t-plate or pivot[hidge?]...anyone ever seen full floating or not attached in this manor???

Re: Re: Re: Shock issues
 

Even the Silva shock will blow up if the shock and car are not set up properly. While the Silva shock does have a threaded on cap for the shock body, under a sever crash, I have seen the piston come off of the piston rod!!

The trick is so make sure that your shock and car are in sync. When the car is in it's ready to race state, meaning batteries and motor in car, and the droop of the rear pod and the chassis ground clearance is correct, the shock piston should never, ever bottom out or hit the top of the shock when the motor pod moves forward and or aft.

You can check this by placing the car, ready to run, on a flat surface and press down on the antenna. The piston should not bottom out inside of the shock. Next pick up the car and pull down on the back of the motor pod. Again, the piston should not hit the top of the shock. Getting the static length of the shock is tricky but once set right, your car will work much better and you will stop blowing the shock apart. You set the static length of the shock by screwing the ball cups in or out. Sometimes you may have to shorten the ball cups to get the correct static shock length.