Newracer- Slayer has the order of parts correct. I also suggest the following: 1) sand the d rings with either 400 or 600 paper and clean. I do this with a little oil on wet/dry paper. Make sure that the ring is flat in the area the balls will ride. 2) always use new diff balls when rebuilding. 3) the outside bearing needs replaced regularly because crashing tends to wear them prematurely. I run at least 3 bellville washers to make it easier to control the force on the balls between the d rings. If you are running modified, I would consider IRS' newest differential for 1/12 that uses the outside ring on ball positions on the gear. That way you have more balls in place to handle the torque of the motor without slipping. Each time the diff slips, the suface of the balls gets flat spotted and gives you a gritty feeling. This is not good for a ball diff. Good luck!

that's my problem then, I don't have any belleville washers at all!

thanks for the help, the only diffs I have experience with are TC's and Tamiya F1's

anybody know what axles have the threaded portion on both sides and the D ring hub? I was thinking of ordering a fiber-lite one from CRC.

BTW Dragon Slayer, I have another used carpet knife that I am looking to sell.

Newracer.....already have a Knife on the way....thanks anyway.

Anybody get to race this weekend???How'd it go????

IRS supplies all pan car axles to CRC. You can email IRS at
[email protected]

Does any one have any good ideas( for a new to 12th scale guy)On what 12th kits are good.Good as in parts avail,durability,bla,bla,bla.our track here in Memphis is outside on med bite asphalt.The track is kinda small(compared to others).Dragon Slayer you know how it is.Bigdog ain't giving out any secrets.Help me out!Point me in the right direction.Allso is Trinity still making or selling the switchblade?And is it any good?

Darnold,

Hey man, how's things? I can't really give you a good answer about how fast my car was, I only got in one lap. It did feel pretty strong, though. I haven't touched it since two weeks ago Saturday. No 1/12 scale cars to be found. Petenis did run through a few packs last Saturday and liked the changes you suggested he make. I have been running my taxi, and am doing fairly well. I have been consistently in the top two spots, and am only 4 points out of first place. I can't go this weekend, though. My motor goes in for it's Dyno sessions and he( my builder ) holds an open house every year. Lots of burgers, fast cars, bench racing, and catching up with friends we only see once a year. Kind of a tradition( I have been going since I was about 6 or 7.). I will give the cell deal a try. I have heard that it is whacked, though, since there is zero volts across it. Keeping my fingers crossed, though.

Have fun gettin' your golf on( sorry, man, I had to!).

Talk to ya later,
Dave S

P.S. when is a good time to call?

Littledog- IMHO if you are ONLY going to race outdoors then get either a 12L3 or CRC Six Pack. They have thinner chassis plates which flex more than some of the other cars thus giving them more overall grip. By the same right some of the other cars such as the new Trinity 2002 Switchblade and Speed Merchant car with their thicker chassis plates flex less helping their corner speed on higher bite surfaces such as carpet. In either case this can be countered by the other cars it just takes a little more work and know-how, ie. Associated may still sell the LC chassis plate which is thicker than the 12L3 one and using bigger rear tires can help give the other cars more rear grip. IMHO the best carpet car is the new Trinity Spashett 2002 edition although every other car out there is truly capable of winning so it comes down to what you feel most comfortable with and what's available.

DaveS- call cell anytime, I'm usually up until 1am or so and we're in the same time zone (central) since I live in Illinois.

Checking out on Orion's site today, I was looking at the pic of Masami's 12th scale. Now being a 12th scale newbie (ie. i have a very hacked 2nd hand 12l3), the parts on that car look quite a bit different than mine. Can anyone make out what aftermarket parts it appears Masami is using? I guess I am assuming its a 12l3, but of course thats just an assumption and I am probably wrong :)

The chassis pieces are actually Yokomo's with Associated pieces thrown in to complete the car.

Guys - don't sell the Speedmerchant REV3 short on the pavement. Eric Derosiers won a ROAR national championship with one on the pavement at Ripon in 2000.

another axle question....my left hub only has a small set screw to hold it on the axle is this normal

the reason I ask is that the hub is also threaded like it is supposed to fit the associated axle

Newracer....you got me on that one?????the set screw is(the old way)it'll work, i have one myself,but the clamp style hubs kick a$$.

how's the balance of the clamping hub? do you think it is better than associated's way with the threaded ends on both left and right? I don't know which axle to use. I have an associated graphite axle and a IRS. I like the IRS because it has the "D" diff rings but the associated seems good because of the threaded left end (easier to adjust the endplay) but no "D" diff rings. Maybe I'll just get the clamping hub.

Newracer....the hub with the set screw will eventually become harder to adjust(side to side)because the set screw will walk a little, plus, i imagine the place on the axle where you slot it for the set screw weakens the axle.....

go with the d rings and the clamping hub i like it better then what AE did with the L3