Foams- 1.85" is where I base my gearing off of since I don't do roll out. For the rest of my current setup:
Assoc. .20 front springs, a .010" spacer under the steering block since I cut off the lip on the pivot ball. If the lip is still there don't put a washer underneath the steering block since this lowers the roll center and gives more reaction and traction. I put about .042" worth of washers on top of the steering block which helps to raise the roll center some. I put Trinity Red Stuff in the pivot balls to dampen their action and on top of the arm there are no washer, just the "e" clip. On bottom of the kingpin I notice that a .010" space is missing between the spring and the bottom e-clip. On bumpy tracks I found that you leave this gap so that the suspension can have a bit more travel. It smooths out the car as a result on bumpy tracks. What I am not sure of is if this is standard for all tracks which is why I am going to test it out tomorrow. I run 2deg negative camber and about 3deg caster now(I was using about 4.5deg caster). I am now using the 10th scale arms since they don't have cut outs in them and this raises the roll center so I use the small ball studs ala Cyrul on the front and on the rear I use the medium ball studs for some reactive caster. I might try going to small ball studs with a .032" plastic washer underneath them ala Cyrul in Car Action which I think is a little lower so the car won't have as much reactive. This may make it more linear and scrub a little less but I'm not sure so that will be tested on the third run tomorrow and I'll report back. I run the T-bar as close to the chassis as possible for more rear bite and stability with thick T-bars and Red Stuff in the damper tubes. More and more I think my initial moto is: Traction problems address with roll centers and Handling problems address with caster and springs. What's your setup everybody?

man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! hey dave wanna just build me one? I'll get a new kit out to you pronto! :)
IKE

What are some good sturdy rims to use for the rear of my L3?
I'm getting sick of my jaco rims cracking all the time.

safaridog -(wooof) the Jaco grey rear rims seem the most durable to me. The best thing to do is not hit anything.

darnold-how's it goin'? I did pretty well last night, considering that i was only a few laps down from mitch(you know, the man, wel up here any way). I drove like crap and stuffed my car into a huge pole in a pile up first lap. this threw my car off tweak. But still, I was really consistent all night-all my lap times were within a few tenths of eachother. All were in the 12.6-13.0 range, except when I got tangled up in lap traffic. the guy thought it was necessary to hit me, or block me every time I lapped him. Oh well, that's racin'. depending on how well my car treats me (or visa versa) I may just run Mod for the Norrca nats, with your old armatures!

I was expirementing this weekend. I used a purple front/green rear setup, with 16's up front and it was hooked! i had to dial out steering, since I had so much compared tomy purple/grey w/ 18's setup.

I also busted up my chassis pretty bad. the front where the posts screw into got ally chipped up, so I put some Associated front guards on it and filled in the rest with CA! and it worked!

Good luck to all,
Thepetenis
:batman:

Hey guys, I need some help...

I saw a purple Micro VCS shock from the Trinity's SB12 2002 Edition...and I was wondering if I could just get the shock set?

I went to all my LHS and none of them have Trinity stuff...so if you guys know your LHS has one, can you help me buy one??

I'm very in need for this shock...

The part number I believe is Trinity #SB1009

If you have one, Please PM me...
Thanks

You have the right part number. Trinity gets it from Associated and has it annodized purple. If you don't care if it isn't purple, just get the Associated and go win.

Davidl,

I don't ussually hit boards , the rims crack from people hitting me.
Anyone have a suggestion?

hey guys I am new at 12th scale and need to paint my first 12scale body, but I need some inspiration. I am to lazy to look bacl at all the posts to see if anyone has posted pictures, so as a favor to me, can you guys post pictures of your 12th scale bodies?:cool:

Chevy350smallblk,

Killer name, dude!:cool: I like to paint my bodies after some paint schemes I see in movies. I have a speed 8 that is painted like Mad Max's yellow interceptor in the first movie, and I have a Parma speed 8 and a Nissan P-35 that are going to be in the light blue/ orange accents like Steve McQueen's car in the movie,"LeMans". That paint scheme was a hit last year at Oktoberfast at TCHR. Billy Easton and Barry Baker both signed it and thought it was a cool paintjob. Both of these are easily duplicated, and I am unaware of wether or not you own an airbrush, but I can tell you the colors I use if you want.


Paint on with your bad self!!!:weird:

Dave S

Foams- Bring the kit to the Nat's and we'll go through it. LOL

Safaridog- TRC rims are stronger than Jaco's but the rears shorten the wheelbase by 1/4" so you will need to do the appropriate spacing on both sides to bring the car back to max width.

BTW- for all of the gang did you know that the new Trinity car is really narrow in the rear width and that you need to add some spacers to get it to max legal width of 6.75"? This will greatly add to the stability and consistency of the car.

Petenis- Did you ever find out if that motor was a 10turn or 9turn? Try Integy ASQ brushes with a slot in the middle and Trinity Green Springs (or equivalent) at 8-10deg timing and then tell me what you think of it. If you get more runtime then gear up a tooth on the pinion.

Chevy350- I don't have any pictures of my car but it is white in front with a fade to red that goes for about halft the body ending in flame tails with a hint of gray accent and the cockpit is black with the rest of the body being white. Rob King of "Kickasso Paints" does my bodies and he is really good, I bet he could paint up anything you want and he may be going to the Norrca Nats up in Minnesota. Drop him a personal message here on the forum he's under RobK. Maybe he can give you some inspirations even if he doesn't paint the body (although you WON'T be dissappointed if he does). If you paint them yourself don't forget that you do it on the inside. heheheh

bump

But do they sell just that purple shock set?

thanks for the reponse guys, I will be using cans and nits not my first job, just my second. I think I want to do orange falmes into black on the rest, adn then a roger rabbit picture on the wing part. I think i am going to find this forum very useful.

darn-old, I mean darnold (Sorry I just realized that and had to say something):ha:

I have both a ten and a nine turn. I can't get any Integy brushes from anywhere around here! I don't have a credit card either to order on line!:mad: so what are some similar brushes! I hae recently been using reedy copper on-road springs with around 10 degrees and they are extremely fast!

That motor my brother (Dave S) is getting is a 700 hp 511 cu. in. motor that makes all it's power off 92 octane, naturally aspirated! Its going in our 66 Nova wagon, which has a 4-link rearend, and strut front end. It's a fully tube chassis. We hope to run it in super gas, and expect it to be at least 9.90's in the quarter mile. Crazy fast for a wagon!

thanks for all the info Dave, and I'll try your motor set up if I can ever get those brushes!

Thepetenis:batman: