Sorry to hear about the real motor blues dude. Look forward to seeing you at Norrca Nat's even if it just pitting for your brother. Well guys, it's been a loooonnng week up at the office just got in so time for that 11:00 report on the Indy race that I promised.
First basics: My car was setup with all stock parts save for the Associated T-bar and front .20springs. Started off doping tires for about 30min which worked well. Unfortunately by the second day (Fri.) I should have gone down to 5min on and 5min off like I did at Cleveland. I figured that the TQ8+ stuff didn't have enough traction compared to Paragon so I kept leaving it on too long and didn't correct for this mistake until Dave Chester told me mid-way through Sat. The result was that it aggrivated the traction roll problem that started coming on late Fri. as well as the "on edge" super quick reaction steering. Next: Integy motors were good. Even though this was course was more about chassis you still needed the power. I would have like to have seen a little more bottom end torque but considering the chassis delima I didn't focus on it but springs/timing/brush cut could have solved that issue I think. Tires: I re-learned that when the traction gets nasty at the big races several runs per set is a no-no especially doping them as long as I was doing for Thurs, Fri, and half of Sat. You must clean them out with motor spray after the first run and let them sit overnight to dry out so that you can get that last run on them the next day because more than twice gets them gummy so you increase your chances of traction rolling and also slow your car down some and lose some run time (if you think this is bad, rubbers are worse at big races because all of this is magnified). So tire strategy comes in a little bit and having a couple of sets to practice on and a couple to race on is a wise investment if possible. This doesn't mean that they can be run several times it only means that if you want a shot at the big boys don't plan on it. Initially I only made a damper shock spring change from my normal silver spring setup to the green spring due to the bumpy surface especially at the end of the straight and it really helped. Then begining on Sat. Dieter told me to change out the fiberglass spacer that I was using which is an Associated part or you take an old t-bar and cut off the "t" part and he had me replace it with the kit plastic washers. This helped by softening the rear some and giving it more traction. It still wanted to flip but not as bad. Next we took out the washers that I had under the pivot balls which lowers the rear roll center and this gave a little more rear traction and helped some more. Then Dieter gave me some harder Gray rears to try along with some harder front purples and this really helped to take the edgeyness away. Finally we lowered the rear roll center some more and that along with not letting the tire traction compound sit for so long did the trick. Unfortunately after all of this work I was accidently center punched into a board making a pass while being on a run that would have kept me in the "A" with only 2min to go in the 4th qualifier. This came after I had been accidently rammed from behind going around a crashed car into a board having to be marshalled in the first minute of the race of the same 4th quallifier. No biggey, just one of those racing deals and hopefully better stuff is in store at the Nat's this upcoming week. Any questions, thoughts, etc. post them and I will attend before I leave out on Wed at 5am for the Nats.-Dave Arnold. Again thanks to Dieter and Chester for all of their help and Sonny and his crew for a good time race.

Up^^^ BTW, hope everyones racing goes well this weekend.

what gearing would i use for a 12t motor running 4 cell and 6 cell
thanks

hello dave.
IKE

Hey guys, I got a SP12M Corally and was wondering what setups i should use. I ran the car box stock with heavy syrup. Here are a bunch of questions that I hope some of you could help me out with.

1. Car is pushing like crazy, what do i need to adjust to eliminate push?

2. How much syrup should I use on the rear pod?

I guess thats all I have for now, please email me your answers, will be very much appreciated for helping me out. Thanks!

Darnold....sounds like a frustrating weekend......but, as they say...a bad day of racing is better than.....heck...pretty much anything:D......good luck at the Nats.....

Everybody post on Monday how your racing went...sound good?

The cross brace on the front end of my Assoc. reallly stiffens things up...gonna try it for the first time this weekend....

wiley- for 4cell try a 28t pinion and 100 spur with 1.85" rears(for every .0500" up or down in size go up or down 1 tooth on the pinion to compensate). For 6cell I can only guess since I haven't run it in so long and as such I would try a 25t pinion and go from there based upon runtime with decent to good cells.

Boy I just re-read my post from Friday and all I can say is don't let my professor see it. All types of grammar/spelling mistakes, I really need to wait until I'm coherent when I post or maybe I should get home a day earlier from the office.heheheh

Foams- How'd it go? See you at the Nat's, let's go go-karting some? BTW who are you staying with at the hotel? Have room for another just in case? E-M me and let me know please.

Alfred- without knowing your camber/castor/spring/spring pre-load/ T-bar front ball position/ tweak screw use/ride height and tire doping scheme it's really hard to say.My guess would be this: 1 degree camber for this car then adjust based upon tire wear (should be close to even if not even) and 2deg castor. If they give you additional front springs try the second most firm set with light pre-load. Dope 3/4-all of the front tires along with all of the rears. For the rear damper setup only put syrup on the two damper pucks and DO NOT fill up the encasing. Lighter syrup will give more steering so if you "filled" up the encasing or used really heavy stuff try some Losi Medium Hydra fluid or even their Light Hydra fluid and this will also increase steering. Ultimately the setup sheets should tell you a good starting point and if that's not enough call or e-m Superior Hobbies in Florida and they will be glad to help you out.

Dragon S- Thanks, still lots to learn and gain experience in doing, your encouragement is greatly appreciated and at least I left faster than I came in. Tomorrow I will be replacing the T-Bar with a slightly thicker one (.077") and going through tires to try and match them up according to firmness and getting them trued for prep for the Nat's. Also a little fun practice and seeing what happens when I leave the .010" gap vs. shimming it under the springs to take leave in/take out play. Will also be replacing some of the purple screws in the rear pod section just in case. I tried the 10th scale front arms which raise the roll center on the front this past Monday before heading to the office and it made the car even easier to drive and would be really welcome when the grip gets nasty as it normally does at big races. I also found out when I put them on that I had "reamed" the normal 12th lower arms out too much and that's why my bottom pivot balls kept coming out on bad impacts like that 4th qualifier at Indy and in the main. We'll see how it runs.

dave, you have a e-m screaming your way.
IKE

Foams- Returned that serve with a backhand. hehehe

**returns with a running backspin one-handed backhand**
ike

Foams- Wow! Good thing I don't play tennis anymore. But Golf... how about a low stinger punch out... LOL

**opens stance way up** **strikes ball well behind lie and pops it straight up in the air** **ball lands ten feet past the cup and violently accelerates back to the cup where it proceeds to make the most lovely plunk noise***
heheheh :sneaky: hows that?????? hehe
IKE

oh yeah and you have another email too if you didnt follow that last little riff.
IKE hehe:)

Foams- I use less tire with the Trinity car than I did with the 6pack. It seems that I found out at both the Connecticut Jan. Jam race and the Indy race that the old 1.95" starting point is just too high at big races and so I am going down to 1.90" which is virtually what Josh is doing. Another critical point I found out is to keep the car level and keep it's ground clearance around 3mm. To do this with 1.90" rears I run the #1 cams down but once they get to about 1.83" for the rears I run the #4 cams down. For the fronts I was running the stock washer under the arm for 1.75" front tires. At the big races for the speeds we run in Mod I am finding that 1.72" fronts to start out with are better because they calm the car down some. As a result I am running a few thin washers that give about 1/8" more clearance to compensate for the smaller tires. I am also thinking that since I don't have magentas to run for the front tires that I will run soft purples in their place but only once so that means that I will save 4 sets for qualifying purposes plus another 3 for my last 3 practice runs. The initial practice runs on Wed/Thurs will be normal purples that I will re-run twice total.

I thought you used a 1.85 starting point for the rears? Geez I guess my car is way off then. I can post your setup that you gave me originally so you can crosscheck it if you like.
IKE