time to let the yokomo go down the road....

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...rts-servo.html

Crc wc crappy servo placement design
 

Stay away from the wc if your new or crash a lil or don't use the airtronic servo broke 2 case's on small crashes going back to ae

It does drive nice lots of work for a new be

Taking my 6.5 y.o. twins racing tomorrow. Just painted the middle car for my son tonight. Second body I've painted since about '06.. he gave me a big hug and told me it turned out better than he thought it would. lol Looking forward to seeing them on some carpet tomorrow, they've not raced anything but stadium truck in the past.

The "X" in tape is where they land their helicopters in the basement. Amazing you can buy a sweet little indoor helicopter off Amazon for ~$16 bux to your door! I don't know how they can produce and ship stuff for that!

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...ps2xcng19g.jpg

17,5 Turns roll out startingpoint
 

Hi guys, I have been out of RC racing for a while and will be running 12th scale again shortly. Because it has been so long ago I have decided to start of with a 17,5turns motor. The track that I will be running the car on is a medium sized carpet track and I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice on where to start off with the roll out of the car. I have read different threads where people suggest around 90mm for 17,5 is this correct? Thanks for all the help already!

Your rollout will depend on your particular motor, your track, your car's setup, the way you drive it, and also the way you've got your speedo and timing set. In 17.5 you'll often find that there is a pretty wide range of gearing depending on who you ask. Some guys do well running way down near 90mm of rollout, while others do well running way up in the area of 105. It all depends. Your best bet is probably to start out in the low to mid 90's and adjust depending on your own motor's temps and your own lap times. In order to find your particular motor's sweet spot, generally you should pay more attention to how much (or preferably how little) your lap times fall off towards the end of each run rather than to the fastest single lap that it will run up front. Happy motoring.

Hi all,

I need some advice:
I noticed that the main chassis of my car bends upwards a little on the front.
When I measure ride height with the car race ready, the nose of the car is about 0.8mm higher than directly under the front suspension.
This only happens when I install the front end ride height spacers. When I leave the spacers out, the chassis is level again. The chassis is an earlier version on-point, I tried different types of front end spacers, like CRC, some aluminium ones (don't know the brand) and some from my 10th scale car.

I take care not to tighten the screws that hold the front end too much, but still when I'm close to tightening the screws, the main chassis starts to bend.
I swapped the main chassis. Both the original and replacement chassis are completely flat when disassembled.

I'm pretty sure that bending the chassis on a 12th scale car is not ideal. ;)
Does anyone have an idea what I'm doing wrong or how I can resolve this?

Regards, Mathijs

Mathijs,

Knowing you and knowing that you have actually checked everything like you say you did.
Maybe the front suspension mounts are bent?
Seems to me that when everything is flat when taken apart and the chassis bends up when everything is mounted. They might be the problem...

oops, missed the part where you said bare bulkhead was not the problem, so it must be the spacers

Anyone that is going to the Snowbirds I was able to get 50 more packs that are being shipped to me there direct. I got 100 packs in a week ago and all were sold in 2 days. The demand is high for 1S stuff right now it seems.

EA

On a couple of my previous cars I've discovered that the mounting surfaces on some of their molded lower front arms were not quite flat. When that happens, then when one tightens up the front end, that un-flatness of the suspension arms can be pronounced enough to actually distort the chassis plate. To overcome this issue, I rubbed each lower arm on my carbide tire file in order to flatten the mounting surfaces. With poorly molded front arms, at first there will be areas of the mounting surface(s) where there are no sanding scratches left by rubbing on the tire file. But once the mounting surface(s) are sanded flat, then the entirety of the mounting surface will show the same even sanding marks. This technique did correct my non-flat lower arms so that they quit tweaking the very front of my chassis plate.

The On-Point uses aluminum mounts so the lower arms are not directly mounted to the chassis...

I've got things straight now by replacing the spacers with ordinary shims. It appears that the ends of the plastic spacers get compressed, so much that the actual chassis gets distorted. Quite extreme.
I've got some testing planned on Friday. Will be interesting to see if my car now actually corners the same left and right.

Are you using full length spacers that span from front to rear? Have you tried just using wide washers like the AE suspension washers? Like these... Here

Opps, didn't read the last page...haha Looks like you got it figured out....

So, what's the latest great ESC & motor & batteries? I haven't raced in a while and I'm looking to start fresh.
Thanks,
E