thanks for the pic. how well does it work in practice?

Hi guys,
Anybody have good experiences with Ufra or Contact tires (donuts actually)?
Any ideas what shores to get?

Yokomo CTR's disappointed me yesterday as from 8 pairs of glued front CRT-S at least 2 pairs of them are hugely softer than the others...
Getting them is also a problem nowadays.

Thanks,
Dirk

It works great in practice and better in racing.

Monti

I would get the BSR arbor nut if I had to get one today. I have a similar arbor nut that I got from C. Andy's a few years ago and the ease of use compared to the separate anchor and nut is my main reason I would go with the BSR style.

Mitch

You can get Ulti X compound tires as donuts, and they generally work very well on carpet. I see that you're in Belgium so I'm not sure where you would buy them but they are available in the USA through KoPropo, so you may have your own affiliate.

anyone using the lrp sxx v2 in the 12th scale for mod. I have a lrp 5.5 in my car and my speedo get so hot I even poped one.

What is your rollout and how much boost/turbo are you running?

I am not using a sxx, but I know many people who have and worst case you will just need to use a fan.

I ran mine with a 4.0 turn and no fan just last weekend, I saw ESC temps on the heat sink of 150F, but it worked just fine. I typically run a small fan if I'm running a mod motor, but I forgot it on this trip and the ESC didn't even flinch. You are running the capacitor, right? Just have to ask.

38.12 roll out sxx setting is 1 3 3 4 i was running 0 on the first setting and i think thats why it pop. also motor is coming off around 130. I have never seen a fan on a 12th scale.

http://liverc.com/pictures/news/8479...orlds_0505.jpg

I've seen fans in 1/12. I think Alex Hagberg runs one. At least I've seen a pic of his car with one

Not sure why cutoff voltage would make the speedo go. Your rollout is a little low for a 5.5, but that shouldn't make it run hotter. Note that more drag brake will make the speedo run hotter.

It isn't unusual to run a fan in mod 12th. I have used one with my Flow WT ever since I changed to the Motiv motors just because it helps reduce fade at the end of the run and keeps the car from feeling 'soft' with the faster 3.5t instead of the 4t X20 I used beforehand.

thanks chris

yes im am running the optional lrp 3.7 volt capacitor

I've been running the sxx tc spec ver2 in my 1/12 for the last 2 years with a 6.5 motor. I've always used a fan on the speedo though. On my first run the speedo got really hot to the touch so I've been using the fan ever since. I don't run any drag brake though. My settings are 1 3 5 0.

Well, AOC Yatabe is around the corner and I spent a heck of a lot of time preparing my 1/12th car and making sure everything was spot on.

Before I did anything, I bought one important tool. A multi-step ride height gauge with 0.1 and 0.2 mm increments - Thank you, Yokomo!

Before I continue, I made sure the tires were perfectly ground,side springs just touching, chassis was balanced, and all the basics covered.

Basically, this gauge helped me properly diagnose and identify any little discrepancies with the front suspension. For me, an important thing in my mind is to dig deeper and source out as to why there is a front ride height different for the left and right. This practice can be used for other parts of the chassis such as the middle, front edge of the pod, and rear pod of the chassis. If it's off, then something is off! That said, we all can easily check our ride height, however, ride height can tell you a lot more about whether or not your car is at a legal race height. It can help bring to light issues with your cars front suspension such as;

1) a) Slight variation in spring length (even new from package)
b) Left/Right lower arm pillow ball heights being slightly different.
(not much can be done with this, it is what it is)

2) a) Front steering block height differences (new from package)
b) Lower suspension arm at same height ( Xenon , Associated )

3) a) Improper weight balance of the main chassis
b) Side springs not set correctly (too much pre-load on onside)

4) a) Kingpin shims are missing or the wrong size(measure every single one)
b) King pin binding and causing inaccurate readings after the suspension is
compressed.

All the things I mentioned above (minus a few) were all the things I encountered during the preparation phase. The shocker was the king pin shims. I bought a package of Kyosho RA kingpin shims which contained 0.48 mm to 0.60 mm thicknesses! That ain't right. I ended up buying some Xray shims that were perfectly set at 0.50 mm which one should expect.

I also added 0.10 mm shims under each spring to act as a secure plateform for the spring to rest on instead of the e-clip.

I also discovered that the one side was resting lower and visibly had more droop. Upon further investigation I found out that the springs were equal length, however, the lower pivot ball was seated at a slightly different position. To compensate for this I added a 0.10 mm shim which evened the ride height and droop settings all in one shot! Perfect!

Everything else had been built with accuracy and tweak free. The car balanced out on the Hudy balance with no adjustments required to the side springs. Perfect left to right measurements for the front, middle, front pod and rear pod. I just hope it shows on the track

The most important thing I've learned is to not assume, but measure to confirm.