good idea!

U dont hear of ppl tinkerin much its good to know there are others!

Was in my speedy the other day and accidentaly desoldered one of the surface mounted capacitors...........like 1mm by 1mm or something and had to resolder it with a 40watt iron with a 4mm tip!!!!!!!!!!!! Now that was so much fun.........

How do the associated L3's god with only 4 cells? are they a raely top end car?

anyone:cry: :p

I think So
 

Fresh,

My RC10L comes with a spacer just like you are talking about. Full width, same size as the top of the T. This was original equipment. SO SURE! you can use a full size solid spacer. I think you will get a stiffer and not so breakable T Bar.

David Root

4 cell stock body
 

Whats the best body for (road course) 4 cell stock ?

I currently have a P35 in .020, a Trinity Bently Speed 9 in .030 and an Ascari in .020

The ascari is the ticket (IMO). It is very durable (compaired to others, the lexan is just more flexable and less cracky for some reason).

The only thing tought about it is that your electronics have to be really low, since the body is SLAMMED. Also it gives great steering and rear grip.

K thanks....I'll start masking the Ascari :tire:

1-800-JENNY
 

My car needs to go on a diet. Its tipping the scales at 880 grams, its a pig.

I dont think replacing electronics is an option, too much $$. Im running a cyclone, JR AM reciever, and a KO micro digital servo. I have the new front end, and Im still using damper disks.

I weighed by body today, its a Protoform Speed 8, it was 68 grams. Is that heavy for a 1/12 body?

Im basically looking for low cost weight reducing mods. Im running 4 cell 19T.

Thanks

Steve- before you paint or mask, mount the body, since its easier to see if anything is hitting (and more importantly where, so you can fix it).

paperboy- That car isnt that heavy. The correct ROAR limit is around 830grams (this years rulebook is wrong, its 100 grams under).

I dont how exactly how much each thing wieghs, however here are some suggestions...

-Body: if its a lightweight then you are fine, if you are really crazy then just use oil or spray can paint with a very light and simple paint job. otherwise, get a lightweight. and i would suggest getting a parma or trinity speed 8, or a proto ascari. The proto bently isnt really used by anyone. (there is a reason all proto factory drivers got Parma deals when they would have had to run the proto 8).

-I am not sure what kind of car it is, however if it is a car with any kind of dress kit, then get rid of it, and put the stock pieces on, they are most likely alot lighter. Also if it has upgraded bulkheads, go back to the stock ones, or one that will allow the graphite left side.

-front end, the dynamic strut is heavier than the old style, and if you are running stock the old style is better anyway.

-tires, big tires weigh more, also tires soaked with compound weigh more, thats one of the reasons why at big races guys run small tires and clean then after every run

Although to be completely honest, your car really shouldnt need to lose weight. in 19t its not going to kill you, unless you need that extra second or two in the 8 minute run, it shouldnt be nessessary to do much. Although if it makes you feel better its priceless:D ;)

Well now I feel alot better. I was under the impression I was 150 grams overweight, lol. Now I feel alot better. Its a regular weight body, Ill switch to a leightweight, thats not too expensive.

Thanks

oopsie poopsie, double post

Servo for 12th scale..
 

Hi

I'm new to 12th scale. Just bought a used 12L3. Looking for opinions on servos - I've always used Airtronics in my TC and off road trucks.

Also any other set-up/build tips on the L3 would be appreciated. I will most likely run stock for now then 19 turn spec.

Thanks

Thanks Stormperson....will drill before I paint :)

Hey you perked my interest in the old style front end with your comment about how it's better in stock...can you elaborate on that topic a little ?? I'm starting out with the 0 blocks on my L3's dynamic front end setup as I have been thinking about way back when I had my 12i and how it felt compared to the 12LW I had when they first appeared...I remember it felt unpredictable or twitchy compared to the 12i :weird:

You think the 0 degree blocks will net me a steering feel close to what the old stlye would feel like ?

This winter should be fun....I have not raced a 12th scale car since 94 :eek:

lem2: you wanna check out the track of Tito and Siokoy sometime soon? I wanna try out our 12th scale there.

What I did to reduce twitchyness was to put a second caster block, cut down, in between the arm and the block. I just cut the top off and used it as a spacer. It really made the car a lot more stable. Usually this makes the car push very badly, so I moved the ball ends on teh servo saver to the other side of the servo saver. That makes the car turn in hard, but its a lot more stable. I would reccomend giving this a try, if for nothing else than to experiment.

I did this on my L3, with the new front end.

Re: I think So
 

david,

when you said stiffer and unbreakable t-bar ...does this means it is as stiff as using 3 spacer inclusive of the center one...by the way the long spacer that i have has no center hole as i have yet to drill a hole

thanks again