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Old 10-28-2012 | 04:49 AM
  #38476  
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I remember seeing a pic of Hara's 1/12th from the 2004 Worlds. He had lead along the back of the pod under the axle. I will have to try and get a pic just in case I was dreaming.
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Old 10-28-2012 | 06:49 PM
  #38477  
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I'm changing my 12R5 over to 13.5 from 17.5, any recommendations on a good starting point for gearing?
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Old 10-29-2012 | 04:28 AM
  #38478  
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Originally Posted by pyro854
I'm changing my 12R5 over to 13.5 from 17.5, any recommendations on a good starting point for gearing?
I'm at a 104mm rollout with a Reedy Sonic..... most are running 76 spur and a 58-63 pinion in my neck of the woods....

That's for a 104' x 48' CRC super smooth carpet track....

Last edited by Logi Maker; 10-29-2012 at 04:48 PM.
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Old 10-29-2012 | 07:27 AM
  #38479  
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I really depends on your track. If it's tight and small start at 80 if it's big open and fast corners then you could go up to 100
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Old 10-31-2012 | 12:21 AM
  #38480  
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Hi ladies and gents,

Didnt see this 1/12 page...

Looking to buy myself my first 1/12th for Mod asphalt racing, are all the current 1/12th's models all about the same in price and performance?

I'm not worried about parts that are available at me local hobby shop..

What's everyones top 3 recommended models?

Thanks for your time
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Old 10-31-2012 | 12:36 AM
  #38481  
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Originally Posted by DesertRat
I have never seen a discussion of how the position of the motor inside of the pod affects the car handling... it would seem relevant because of the growing difference i[n] pod length between various cars. My new CRC xti has a very short pod compared to the old Xi/XL pod dimensions, and in order to run my usual gear set I had to grind away a large amount of the football. I know moving the motor forward effectively removes unsprung weight, putting the weight on the center shock instead of just the rear tires, but does anybody know how that changes the car attitude aside from the age-old less unsprung weight is better argument?
I was recently asking an expert about pan car design. I thought this piece of information he gave me was relevant:

The imaginary line between the pivot ball and the tyre contact patch defines the anti-squat. So, moving the pivot ball backward would increase anti-squat.

Have you taken any measurements of the pod lengths (pivot-ball to axle distance) of the various cars? I would be interested in seeing some comparisons.
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Old 10-31-2012 | 12:38 AM
  #38482  
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Originally Posted by Texco
Hi ladies and gents,

Didnt see this 1/12 page...

Looking to buy myself my first 1/12th for Mod asphalt racing, are all the current 1/12th's models all about the same in price and performance?

I'm not worried about parts that are available at me local hobby shop..

What's everyones top 3 recommended models?

Thanks for your time
The Top Rebel won the FEMCA Championship last year in Sydney. That's the highest profile Asphalt race I can think of.
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Old 10-31-2012 | 07:16 AM
  #38483  
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Originally Posted by Texco
Hi ladies and gents,

Didnt see this 1/12 page...

Looking to buy myself my first 1/12th for Mod asphalt racing, are all the current 1/12th's models all about the same in price and performance?

I'm not worried about parts that are available at me local hobby shop..

What's everyones top 3 recommended models?

Thanks for your time
Hey Tex
No such thing as a bad 12th scale these days
They are all great refined cars

Have a look here for more info
www.rctech.net/forum/california-racing/386766-12th-scale-racing-alive-well-so-cal.html
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Old 10-31-2012 | 02:42 PM
  #38484  
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Originally Posted by Radio Active
I was recently asking an expert about pan car design. I thought this piece of information he gave me was relevant:

The imaginary line between the pivot ball and the tyre contact patch defines the anti-squat. So, moving the pivot ball backward would increase anti-squat.

Have you taken any measurements of the pod lengths (pivot-ball to axle distance) of the various cars? I would be interested in seeing some comparisons.
Anti-squat in a 1/12 is a voodoo science. Yes, the line between the contact patch and pivot affects the anti-squat, but so do many other things. For instance, the motor spooling up on acceleration torques the pod into squat, which also changes based on where in the pod the motor sits... while but the pivot height changes as it squats/stands up and changes the overall anti-squat, which in turn changes other shit. If you can make sense of it you're better than me.
I will measure the difference in my XL and XTI, it's probably close to a half inch.
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Old 10-31-2012 | 02:50 PM
  #38485  
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Originally Posted by Texco
Hi ladies and gents,

Didnt see this 1/12 page...

Looking to buy myself my first 1/12th for Mod asphalt racing, are all the current 1/12th's models all about the same in price and performance?

I'm not worried about parts that are available at me local hobby shop..

What's everyones top 3 recommended models?

Thanks for your time
The best commonly available and well supported 1/12th cars for any surface (not in any order, all are good):

Associated RC12R5.2
SpeedMerchant Rev7
CRC Carpet Knife Xt or Xti

If you get the CRC Xti get the transverse battery kit for asphalt.

Everything else is not as well supported or are upgrade kits that need parts or a donor car.
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Old 11-01-2012 | 08:05 AM
  #38486  
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Originally Posted by DesertRat
I have never seen a discussion of how the position of the motor inside of the pod affects the car handling... it would seem relevant because of the growing difference i pod length between various cars. My new CRC xti has a very short pod compared to the old Xi/XL pod dimensions, and in order to run my usual gear set I had to grind away a large amount of the football. I know moving the motor forward effectively removes unsprung weight, putting the weight on the center shock instead of just the rear tires, but does anybody know how that changes the car attitude aside from the age-old less unsprung weight is better argument?
http://www.redrc.net/2012/10/serpent...x-112th-scale/

Serpent just made a big change by moving the pivot ball 8mm forward
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Old 11-01-2012 | 09:51 AM
  #38487  
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Originally Posted by DesertRat
I have never seen a discussion of how the position of the motor inside of the pod affects the car handling... it would seem relevant because of the growing difference i pod length between various cars. My new CRC xti has a very short pod compared to the old Xi/XL pod dimensions, and in order to run my usual gear set I had to grind away a large amount of the football. I know moving the motor forward effectively removes unsprung weight, putting the weight on the center shock instead of just the rear tires, but does anybody know how that changes the car attitude aside from the age-old less unsprung weight is better argument?
I think the CRC Xti's rear pod being shorter is a design concession made to make room for everything to fit on the chassis in line. I do not feel that a reducing the distance from the rear axle to the cent pivot is a positive step. Neither does anyone else as pods have gotten longer (even CRC's) over the last 10 years. Part of this was due to changes in gearing for BL but in testing the longer pods were faster.

I raced and worked for BMI and over the years developing the DB12R, RR and Copperhead 12 we tested different rear pod lengths. I can say with certainty that shorter is NOT faster. This is true of live axle rear suspension systems in full scale cars too.
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Old 11-01-2012 | 01:14 PM
  #38488  
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Hi guys, just a quick question about rear motor and diff orientation..

Could anybody explain why I haven't seen any cars with the motor the other way round and the diff on the left side of the car...? Im sure there are speed controls that run with reversed settings on so it would be possible as far as I can tell..

I ask because it would give me a benefit in pod/motor balance at the moment, just wondering if there was some negative reason its not done?

Regards,

Andy
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Old 11-01-2012 | 02:03 PM
  #38489  
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Originally Posted by cyclone
Hi guys, just a quick question about rear motor and diff orientation..

Could anybody explain why I haven't seen any cars with the motor the other way round and the diff on the left side of the car...? I'm sure there are speed controls that run with reversed settings on so it would be possible as far as I can tell..

I ask because it would give me a benefit in pod/motor balance at the moment, just wondering if there was some negative reason its not done?

Regards,

Andy
1. Brushed Stock and Spec motors had timing advance and were designed to run in a certain direction. This is why the gears are on the right.

2. Some BL motors have timing advance built in so they can run in only one direction. I think the Trinity D3.5 has 20 degree of timing advance at the lowest timing setting. Motors with timing at true Zero don't care how they spin, this is controlled by power wire orientation and the speed control.

3. Due to the size and weight distribution of BL motors pods have evolved into asymmetrical shapes so there would have to be a special left drive pod to accomplish this.

Most car designers make the rear pods balanced side to side for most motor combos. Is it really off by that much? Is everything on it...axle, wheels, etc?
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Old 11-01-2012 | 02:06 PM
  #38490  
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I like the look of that Serpent. I drove a serpent at the IIC and it was always easy and responded well to changes. I think I may pass this Xti off to a guy at my track who wants to get started in 1/12 and just keep the XL and Serpent... but I will probably prove to be too lazy.

I measured the difference in pod length from the XL to the Xti and its nearly 0.2", or roughly 10% of the total pod length. The Xti main chassis is close to a half inch longer from the front axle to the pod, giving it an overall longer wheelbase. XL and Xti both double-steered like a bitch with the stock setup, but radical shock changes fixed that.
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