YES, or you could change your set-up a little bit. You may just want to ask Ian Ruggles (lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program)

?????....nevermind, sorry to have bothered you.

What I mean is:

You can use a softer tire up front --- Sometimes you will get loose through the run.

You can use a harder tire in the rear --- Typically not the way to go.

You can change your set-up --- Thinner lube in the dampner tubes, softer front springs, harder top spring, more camber in the front, etc, etc, etc.

Nothing wrong with it at all. It's just that over here so many people only speak Bush's American ;)

There speaks someone who knows, and to whom one should listen carefully. Thanks, Brian.

You guys, what are you like! :lol: :lol:

As George Bernard Shaw said "England and America are two great nations separated by a common language" :D

Cor blimey guv, what a gent you are!! For those in the land of the five time zones, that needs to be said by Dick Van Dyke using that crazy cockney accent he failed to pull off in the film Mary Poppins - horrendous!!

When we say we are "mad about a flat", we mean we are very keen on a new apartment and you mean you are :flaming: mad about having a nail in your tyre (sorry, tire!). OK, I'll get my coat... :lol:

I realize this question will be dependent upon a number of factors, however I'm looking for a better general understanding of how a 1/12 scale should react overall (on carpet). Specifically, I feel that I have to wait a little too long in most corners to get back on throttle. Many setup and tire changes have had various affects on this (good and bad), however it just always seems this way. I've been racing 1/12 scale for the past year or two so I know what my car can do, however I'm not totally sure what it "should" do. As a general rule of thumb is a well setup car able to get on power in the turns early and often ? Maybe another way to say this is, if the car were perfect could you almost drive full throttle the entire track ? I do realize this would not be the fastest way around the track, but hope you get my point. Or, am I just expecting too much from the car ? This could be the case as it is by far the most fun car I've driven over the years. Thanks !

Different cars will demand different driving styles to get the best, but rule of thumb, higher cornering speeds will give faster laps. Always be weary of the pay off..... ie getting on the throttle harder may feel faster, but if it puts you on the wrong line for the next corner etc, it will not be faster.

It sounds like you have an on power push going on? First question would be front tires.....

Remember to be weary of the pay off of having more on power steering. Usually for me, it means more off power steering too, and usually that means mine starts to hook on the front tires on entry. I like a car that pushes a little and slowly make small changes to get just enough corner grip. Reason.... the car can then make really nice FAST arcs through a corner, and my car exits SO much faster than the cars who take much tighter 'point to point' driving lines. This has other positive effects, lower temps, more room to gear up etc etc etc.

Not sure if that answered your question or not, but reply with some more info and we will see what we can suggest.

Forget LiFe, check this one out:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=HBZ1017

Hi guys, there seems to be quite alot of talk regarding missed laps due to transponder's not sending out a decent signal due to low voltage. I reckon that this could be overcome by placing the timing loop in a better position, ie, not where cars are travelling under full, or almost full acceleration. If the loop is at a place where the throttle is not open (going into a slower corner for example), then the full voltage will be available to power the transponder and hopefully no more missed laps! Only an idea chaps!!

I'm of the mindset that rotation is generally a result of set-up at the rear of the car.

If the track has decent bite, sometimes a harder tire will actually limit rotation. In most instances a Yellow rear will offer more rotation, and also more forward bite than a grey rear. At the Halloween Classic this year, I started on Yellow rears. The car rotated well, but had an on-power push at corner exit. I switched to Grey rears, and lost a bit of rotation, but the car gained exit steering because of the reduction in forward bite. Consequently the car was smoother and easier to drive.

Thinner tube lube, stiffer shock spring, and stiffer side springs can also increase rotation. My first choice is usually to reduce dampening, next I'll change the spring. If these two options don't give me the feel I'm looking for, I'd then try different tires.
If the new tires get the car "out of the carpet" then the goal has been met. If not I'll then change to stiffer side springs.

This is all assuming that you have enough front-grip to carry the car through the corner. If the car turns-in well, and washes out mid-corner,(which would obviously limit rotation), either the front springs are too stiff, or there's not enough camber.

Are you absolutely certain that this product is better than a LiFe? If so, tell us why it is better.

not best idea... you will need a step down voltage module... servo cannot take more then 6V however with LiFe 6.6V is OK because they test the LiFe for the servo... 7.4V will cook it... Have seen it...

Agreed, but rather not take a chance and good luck getting ppl to change things at their tracks...
:):):)
:tire::tire::tire:

Ok so here is a question from me...
We been very limited up to now on which LiPo batteries we can use for 1/12th... Well not anymore so... for 1/12th Modified what would be better a higher mAh like 5600 - 6000 with a lower C rating like 50C or a lower mAh like 5400 with 60 - 65 C rating.... Can't find a battery with both and I am guessing higher mAh is better for runtime... Any thoughts

Thanks
:):):)
:tire::tire::tire:

with a 2s receiver pack you will need to reduce voltage to 6, providing more components to fail. i don't know about all ESC's but tekin specifically warns against feeding the RS with 7volts from the receiver. KO electronics is good for 2s voltage but they seem to be the exception.

(my experience with voltage reducers have not been good. i have 2 for 2 failed. i had one fail at the start of the back straight on my gas car. if it had failed 1.5 seconds later it would have been very ugly. the lipo pack in my transmitter had a voltage reducer built in, which died while stored between races)