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-   -   1/12 forum (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/37-1-12-forum.html)

Bmr4life 03-12-2010 06:54 PM

How fast are these cars using going when carpet racing?

kk4hg 03-12-2010 06:56 PM


Originally Posted by buffalobill989 (Post 7128577)
http://tqracing.com/sensor.htm
i think they are all the same. heres what i use
some of the best. very flexible. i use these and his wire to :D

Thanks! So I don't need to specify motor and ESC, just the length?

stical 03-12-2010 11:58 PM


Originally Posted by W.E.D.Jim (Post 7128791)
stical, I replied to all the pms, thank you for your interest!


lmk

...Jim
W.E.D.
www.wedjim.com

Hi Jim,

PM replied and payment sent.

This will be my first pro-painted body YEAAAHH :nod:

Thanks,
Erik

TrevCoult 03-13-2010 01:31 AM


Originally Posted by carcrazy699 (Post 7128626)
hey guys thinking of running a 12th scale. i have the tekin rs esc and was woundering if i stil need to get that smart boost from novak to run

Don't get the Novak booster. The LiPo cutoff is set too high. Get the TQ booster or better the RC Dynamics one from the UK (www.rcdynamics.co.uk) which has better performance. Neither have a LiPo cutoff but they are not really needed if running stock classes.

Trev

jmellipse 03-13-2010 02:25 AM

@carcrazy699

If you wil be running NiMh you don't need them.
The Novak is very big and has a lipo cutt-off. You already can do lipo cutt-off with your Tekin RS if you want. This is only possible with the higher software version. Not sure where it started, but v203 has it.

avs 03-13-2010 08:26 AM


Originally Posted by kk4hg (Post 7128811)
Thanks! So I don't need to specify motor and ESC, just the length?

yes, brushless sensors all use the same connector.

wingman2 03-13-2010 10:04 AM

I recently used a Novak booster but it would not work with the latest 203 S Pro. I had to uninstall the 203 software, and use the previous version just to get it to work. Since then, I have bought a TQ booster and have had no problems with it at all. Cheers.

Mark506 03-13-2010 10:15 AM

How does the angle of the turnbuckles from the servo, to the knuckles correspond to feel in steering? With running a flat servo, I guess more bump steer is produce than running a angled servo, mostly because a flat servo has more of a incline starting at the top with the horn with the turnbuckles, than a angled servo. Is that right so far?

So would shimming 1.5mm under the ballstud on the knuckles to produce less turnbuckle inclined, almost parallel to the chassis, produce a more linear feel with ackerman, and almost be a balance between a flat and angled servo? thanks.

CarbonJoe 03-13-2010 10:23 AM


Originally Posted by Mark506 (Post 7130892)
almost Parrnell to the chassis

I assume you meant "parallel to the chassis"?

Mark506 03-13-2010 10:27 AM


Originally Posted by CarbonJoe (Post 7130913)
I assume you meant "parallel to the chassis"?

Yes, :D fixed, thanks

Josh Keller 03-13-2010 05:50 PM

.

kk4hg 03-13-2010 07:29 PM

1/12 Newb ?
 
Getting ready to build an Assoc. 12R5. Can't see where it says how much oil to put in the two shocks...

pakk 03-13-2010 10:32 PM

never mind, read that wrong.

dangles 03-13-2010 10:36 PM


Originally Posted by kk4hg (Post 7132407)
Getting ready to build an Assoc. 12R5. Can't see where it says how much oil to put in the two shocks...

u need to fill the shock up so there is no air in the shock itself. Once shock has been filled pump the piston a few times to make sure there is no air trapped under it. When fitting the top plate and oring make sure the plate is pushed all the way in then push the oring in as well. the oring should be pretty much flush with the top of the shock body. Fit cap making sure its not cross threaded

kk4hg 03-13-2010 10:51 PM


Originally Posted by dangles (Post 7132977)
u need to fill the shock up so there is no air in the shock itself. Once shock has been filled pump the piston a few times to make sure there is no air trapped under it. When fitting the top plate and oring make sure the plate is pushed all the way in then push the oring in as well. the oring should be pretty much flush with the top of the shock body. Fit cap making sure its not cross threaded

Thanks, mate!


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