i have recently purchased a RC12R5 and am just waiting on my cells to arrive.
It is running a GTB 4-cell with a Roche 10.5t motor.

Could someone give me a base setup for this car on a low traction asphalt track? we havent built the track yet but the space is 2 full tennis courts so it will have medium length back straight.

what rollout should i aim for with a 10.5t motor? i have a 72 tooth spur if that makes a difference.

thanks
Alex

Has anyone tried the Hyperdrive R5 front bulkheads on an L4 based chassis?
http://www.lefthander-rc.com/catalog...oducts_id=1854
From what i can see they are designed so the car will have the same track and wheelbase as the original.

Looks like it should work. Haven't seen them in person though.

Hi Conrad, looking at your pic, could you drill the hole out a bit and replace the nut and bolt with a captive nut and bolt from the SP12X? That would give you the clearance needed. Worth a try huh?! Cheers.

Sounds like your talking about the nut and bolt on the front side of the motor below the solder tabs? Clearance there is fine, its the machined alloy pod at the back of the motor that i'm having trouble with. I dont want to remove the leg/angled part of the pod and find out there is no strength left in the pod, i'll edit up the pic later and make it clear for everyone.

I've heard those captive nuts mentioned before, part number anyone?

Hello, I am new to 12th racing...
I race on low grip asphalt with 4.5T Orion and Ko esc. 5 minutes races/ qualifiers
I need some advice on car setup on the following,
On a low grip highspeed track what is the caster deg I can start with?
What the difference between , static caster and final caster? Which on to use?
Droop? how much is recomended?
What rollout for a 4.5T or gearing?
Thanks

Conrad (and Wingman) I've raced Corally's for way to many years and I have put a Novak Brushless in a 12M. I use it in our 48min enduro race where I use a 4 cell stick pack with spacers in the center to allow the T-bar to flex .... sorry back to the question ..... You will need to take the whole motor pod apart and build it "Around" the motor. I needed to use a dremel on some of the bottom plate to get full movement of the motor, which is not a lot, but once done, I have run this car for 3-4 years and never broken the rear pod and it has had many "Hits".

If needed, I could pull mine and take a few pictures, would just have to put the motor back. Let me know.

You will need to add the .5 mm shim between the Hyperdrive block and the lower A-Arm. But beside that the aluminum blocks will make the R5 front end the same wheelbase and width as the older front ends on cars that are drilled for the 8-32 screws.

Well that's all going to depend on the car too. Not all cars running an AE style front end have the same spacing between the lower arms.

If you wouldnt mind that would be excellent thanks as i dont quite grasp what you mean by build the pod around the motor. I can get the motor in and out fine, i just dont have any space to move it back and forth to mesh it. I wonder is there a difference in length between different manufacturers brushless motors?

Conrad-The Novak Ballistic series motors do have a different shape in the back. There is a shoulder and the back end is smaller diameter. It may solve your problem. You can also grind that side plate down to a thinner flange and use a nut or slightly thicker with a captive or T-nut made of steel. You will want to retain a bolt there for adequate pod stiffness. Won't be pretty.

Top man thanks John, dont suppose you have sizes? I seen a pic of the new speed passion motors from the euro's, they are a shorter can and will have connectors directly on to the end of the motor, no more solder tabs....

Conrad-My Ballistic 3.5 is 1.847 long to the shoulder. The narrowed end is .990 in diameter. Length of can is 2.080. I am told this is too much motor for a 1/12 scale. I imagine the whole series is the same size. No connectors please.

hey, there is a carpet track opening near me soon...so im looking into the 1/12 cars. this will be my first time for any on road stuff. my question is about car selection. ive always been an associated guy, so the 12r5 jumps out at me. but at the same time, im interested in the X Ray and BMI cars. i just wanted to get some feedback from u guys that run the cars. is any chassis better than the other? likes and dislikes of each car? we will have a national champion at our track all the time that drives for X Ray...so im thinking i cant go wrong with the support there.

im looking to run 17.5 with a lipo...if that makes any difference.

any info? thanks.

Any of those chassis will do well for you given they are setup right. LiPo is definately a consideration and the Xray will be a bit more fussier to get the battery to fit. Link cars like the CRC, BMI, and Speed Merchant have better battery positioning for a solid pack like a LiPo and some even have LiPo specific chassis. With the Xray you'll need to mount the battery on one side of the chassis much like TCs are today. But having that local support may be that little bit extra you want or need. My personal favorite is the BMI.