I need some help with dampener tube lubes. The set ups I see list 5000 wieght diff lube or Shurlube. I have the CRC stuff. Which Shurlube and CRC lube compares to 5000 weight diff lude? Which is better Shurlube or the CRC stuff?

Casper--Thanks for the advice. That's what I have planned to do. I was sure if there was a device that made it a little easier.....Cause I've got an idea on one.(At least for 12th scale's) Maybe more.

I think it was trinity who used to make some pointy cone things you would screw on to the top of the body posts that you could then push down on them to "dimple" the body in the right spots. I am sure they were not cheap though and there are other ways of doing this. Like I said if you were to mark them before you paint is the easiest way but if you buy a prepainted body this is not always the option.

There is no one setup that works for every track, the setup can change for the same track if the traction level changes from meet to meet. If you go to the Serpent site there are a few setups posted there and also on the S120 thread here.

I think Trinity did or does make a pointed tool that went on the posts. When you'd push down on the body it would dimple the body to mark the place to drill. Not sure if those are still around or not.

could not find on trinity site, but http://www.ehobbies.com/tri30003.html

My tires are down to 41mm with a 3mm spacer gets me to 4.0 mm

Is this about the lowest I can go?

Track allows 3.5mm

Thanks

As long as you have foam on the rim you can go as low as you want or the track allows, jst remember to change your gearing to match your rollout.

Chris,

Is there any way to get a lower ride height if the 3mm adjuster is deemed too large to get a ride height? I would think 41mm is failr y close to the death of the tire.

Yea at 41mm you are getting close:lol:. You can take the 3mm spacer out but you will need to use a 2mm washer for each screw. By taking out the spacer you lose some strength in that lower arm and if you take a hard hit to the front its very easy to bend the screws and tweak the car. By using a small thin 2mm washer between the lower arm and the chassis at each screw you add back some strength to the lower arm. I found some at a local Ace hardware store.

I don´t know wich is better, but i use Mugen 5000wt diff lube, and is very similar to CRC white cap lube, (kit supplied), for me work similar in track.

Greetings, Luis C.

I am now in the difficult task of changing the car, took a few years running with
CRC, and I want to change, i am undecided between these 2 models, BMI db12rr or Speedmerchant rev5, both are very similar to my GEN-X, i like the design of the BMI, but the Speedmerchant are very interesting, too, but i don´t can buy the 2 cars.
I would like to hear views from both pros and cons, etc...
I race in asphalt, low grip tracks, some time in carpet, but rarely.

Thanks in advance, Luis C.

Luis you can not go wrong with either car. Personally I drive a BMI car, and can tell you on asphalt, there is no better car then the DB12rr. The car is pretty much indestructable, and never tweaks. :)

Luis,

Two excellent choices. BMI great car, durable and plenty quick good luck...

Viva Las Vegas

Both great cars, but so is your old one. :D

If you race asphalt, the BMI will be a better choice over the Rev5 or Gen-X, as both of these cars mostly excel on carpet.