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TM Racing and the old Jaco rim (used on Jaco Dual Stage and TRC Capz) take unflanged.
Everything else takes flanged bearings. |
Originally Posted by Carl Giordano
(Post 3647785)
Having problems with my KO Speedo VFS perhaps a 1/12th scale master can help.
The speedo is set correctly and the punch setting are reasonable. The current limit is OFF. The problem I have is at the start of a race from a heads-up start. At the line when the buzzer goes off and I nail the throttle (i know roll-on it) the motor seems as if it stalls or just creeps off the line and once moving if fine. Problem is by this point, the guys who qualified behind me usually plow into the rear of my car or blow past me. My lap time appear consistant once the car is moving...its just at the start of a race. Anyone running a KO VFS for 4-cell 1/12th scale you can help? Perhaps someone can provide me with the setting they use? Any advice would help? Thanks
Originally Posted by racenut123
(Post 3647796)
I have heard the Ko/Twister speedos Fets go bad or get weak after even a little use.We had someone at TCS Nats change out his speed control{vfs1 pro} to another of the same speedo{brand new} and noticed a huge difference in performance.Fets go bad.Hopefully this is not the case for you but you never know.
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Originally Posted by AdrianM
(Post 3648739)
TM Racing and the old Jaco rim (used on Jaco Dual Stage and TRC Capz) take unflanged.
Everything else takes flanged bearings.
Originally Posted by haagar
(Post 3648727)
The older, smaller CRC wheels are unflanged. The newest high roller wheels (procuts) from CRC are flanged (some of the older highroller wheels take unflanged).
Jaco's new Prism wheels take flanged bearings. I am not sure about the older Jaco wheels. The old JACO rims are those ones I guess - found the picture after asking, sorry :sweat: http://www2.gpmd.com/image/j/jacc2325.jpg Is the choice of front Purple and rear Gray relevant? Don't know yet exactly where I will practice!! |
It's about time to build my 1/12 scale for the up coming season. I'm looking for a good way to balance the weight left to right. I have the Hudy pins, but beleive there is some friction that makes the reading off.
Does anyone have a bearing set up to do this?? Thanks |
If you run stock get double pink fronts and grey rears.
If you will be running the new Jaco Prisms try Lilac fronts (a little harder than Dbl Pink but softer than Purple) and Yellow Rears (a little softer than Grey). |
Originally Posted by AdrianM
(Post 3649158)
If you run stock get double pink fronts and grey rears.
If you will be running the new Jaco Prisms try Lilac fronts (a little harder than Dbl Pink but softer than Purple) and Yellow Rears (a little softer than Grey). Prims seems to have larger rim diameter than old school rim, no? And don't fit with unflanged bearing, so it's done! Thanks Adrian, Haagar and all others for the details |
Originally Posted by Grenade10
(Post 3649155)
It's about time to build my 1/12 scale for the up coming season. I'm looking for a good way to balance the weight left to right. I have the Hudy pins, but beleive there is some friction that makes the reading off.
Does anyone have a bearing set up to do this?? Thanks |
Brushless Motor in 3.2R rear pod question, really tight
Hi guys,
Question for someone who may know... I have a crc 3.2R and recently put a 13.5 brushless in it. I'm having some difficulty with the motor tabs knocking off my damper tube, and there is not much room to adjust gear mesh, it is so close...I'm running an 88 spur and I think a 40 pinion, but it is tight...Any body have any ideas how to give me some more room? Are there different pods out there that would move the motor back a little? Smaller spurs (but how small is too small?)... Any help and advice is appreciated. Thanks.... |
Originally Posted by Scott B
(Post 3648688)
OK OD, with Stockton going with B/L classes what rollout for the 10.5 and 13.5's??? Also what spurs do I need to get since I think it will be a HI rollout?:confused:
Is it October 27th yet!!!:D:D What tires for stockton? Probably 19 turn? |
If you have room under the body it will probably be better to run the motor so the tabs stick up through the top of the rear pod. That way they don't contact the damper tubes. Only way really to get more room is a smaller spur or pinion.
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Originally Posted by Maxxratter
(Post 3649238)
Hi guys,
Question for someone who may know... I have a crc 3.2R and recently put a 13.5 brushless in it. I'm having some difficulty with the motor tabs knocking off my damper tube, and there is not much room to adjust gear mesh, it is so close...I'm running an 88 spur and I think a 40 pinion, but it is tight...Any body have any ideas how to give me some more room? Are there different pods out there that would move the motor back a little? Smaller spurs (but how small is too small?)... Any help and advice is appreciated. Thanks.... http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=RRP4181 |
Originally Posted by joey
(Post 3649258)
try out this spur i have one in my DB12R it will allow you to run a smaller pinion so you will have more room.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=RRP4181 |
Originally Posted by Scott B
(Post 3648688)
OK OD, with Stockton going with B/L classes what rollout for the 10.5 and 13.5's??? Also what spurs do I need to get since I think it will be a HI rollout?:confused:
Is it October 27th yet!!!:D:D We ran PRS 88t spurs, but now they make smaller ones of you want more room (88 is perfect IMO) Can't wait! :D |
Originally Posted by odpurple
(Post 3649340)
The last time we ran BL at Stockton was for the NWCC. For 13.5 63mm is a good place to start, I think that is conservative. I know Ashby tried as high as 71 or something. For that race we ran 57mm for the 4300/10.5. All these rollouts were with sintered rotors :cool:
We ran PRS 88t spurs, but now they make smaller ones of you want more room (88 is perfect IMO) Can't wait! :D Whats the FDR of those roll outs? I still dont know roll out like I do FDR lol.....:rolleyes: |
Originally Posted by Grenade10
(Post 3649155)
It's about time to build my 1/12 scale for the up coming season. I'm looking for a good way to balance the weight left to right. I have the Hudy pins, but beleive there is some friction that makes the reading off.
Does anyone have a bearing set up to do this?? Thanks I use a custom set up built by Chris Rhodes that works really well, the advantage being that the car does not fall side to side but just sits level while you move the parts around until the pointer is centered. Building something like this is probably more than most racers would want to do, but this thing rocks! :nod: |
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