Having problems with my KO Speedo VFS perhaps a 1/12th scale master can help.

The speedo is set correctly and the punch setting are reasonable. The current limit is OFF. The problem I have is at the start of a race from a heads-up start. At the line when the buzzer goes off and I nail the throttle (i know roll-on it) the motor seems as if it stalls or just creeps off the line and once moving if fine. Problem is by this point, the guys who qualified behind me usually plow into the rear of my car or blow past me.

My lap time appear consistant once the car is moving...its just at the start of a race. Anyone running a KO VFS for 4-cell 1/12th scale you can help? Perhaps someone can provide me with the setting they use? Any advice would help?

Thanks

I have heard the Ko/Twister speedos Fets go bad or get weak after even a little use.We had someone at TCS Nats change out his speed control{vfs1 pro} to another of the same speedo{brand new} and noticed a huge difference in performance.Fets go bad.Hopefully this is not the case for you but you never know.

If you laid the blue over the black wouldn't it look purple? :lol:

I was afraid of this...I just received my perfectly wired OD Purple prepared Rev4.5. I have another speedo to try but will continue playing around with the KO setting to see if it improves.

If anyone can post their setting profile for a 4 cell 1/12th using a KO VFS speedo so I compare to mine it would be appreciated.

Oooo now its tape wars between OD and Slowerone. Who won the diff war? :lol:

After every run, OD's car is "black and Blue":lol::lol:

I was just joking :sneaky: CarlosG took the bait :lol:

Carl, do you have the cap on the speedo?? and do you run a reciever pack?? As that sounds like a smiple voltage/demand issue.

oic:eek:
well I took some crappy pix from my cellphone and I don't like them so I'm going to take some more of the wire job on my 12th with brushless. and I found my 78 tooth robinson spur I used at the major taylor velodome back in 95 so I should be good.

Nasher, you've got a PM.:cool:

Not as much as you being the chassis b*#ch being all demanding of OD, "Where is my chassis?"

If I'm a chassis B*#ch you are my biyatch....cause I own you every weekend. :flaming:

Good evening everyone,

I got a little matter, purchasing a set of ball bearing to refresh an L3, the front bearing in the set come unflanged (in fact L4 bearings), the ones on the car are flanged (the stock ones for a L3). The tires are almost over so I have to buy some fresh set too (front and rear)!

Here is the trick, there is some manufacturers how make rims that fit with unflanged bearings - with a little molding on the rim axle - and other who dont'! I want to be sure to get the appropriate rim to fit the bearing! I read somewhere the good starting compromise is front Purple and rear Gray. I check PARMA, TRC, JACO, GRP, BSR, CRC but not sure about the mounting with unflanged bearing, so a confirmation will be great:
I guess as Newb, the standard (not the Pro) will be better.

Thanks for your help

Arno

OK OD, with Stockton going with B/L classes what rollout for the 10.5 and 13.5's??? Also what spurs do I need to get since I think it will be a HI rollout?:confused:

Is it October 27th yet!!!:D:D

The older, smaller CRC wheels are unflanged. The newest high roller wheels (procuts) from CRC are flanged (some of the older highroller wheels take unflanged).

Jaco's new Prism wheels take flanged bearings. I am not sure about the older Jaco wheels.