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Originally Posted by jrrc
Not pretty, but I learned about polar moment in a 12th scale car. :sneaky:
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Originally Posted by mtveten
Does the fibreglass antenna help protect the car in flips? I have noticed that with my DSM I can tuck the antenna under the body with no radio problems but if I remove the fibreglass antenna would I be more likely to break when the car becomes airborn?
Has anybody tried running without the antenna? Thanks, Mark you can run the car with or without the antenna..the reason having an antenna it to keep the car from rolling......I know that the some where in the ROAR Rules , the all pan car must have no roll-over antennas allowed in roar sanctioned event. |
Originally Posted by fjm9898
ahh i got ya. thanks guess somthing like battery from center point was just somthing a bit harder to notice in the pics. how did you get the batteries on a L4 to hang out without them falling out?
also do you think it would be possible to buy the yok chassis and body post bar and toss them on a l4 or is there more? just trying to figure out how to make a l4 a bit more competitive on aspahlt.... just in case :D :sneaky: Keep in mind that the yokomo wheel base is alittle longer than L4 :weird: |
Originally Posted by fjm9898
ahh i got ya. thanks guess somthing like battery from center point was just somthing a bit harder to notice in the pics. how did you get the batteries on a L4 to hang out without them falling out?
also do you think it would be possible to buy the yok chassis and body post bar and toss them on a l4 or is there more? just trying to figure out how to make a l4 a bit more competitive on aspahlt.... just in case :D :sneaky: Like I posted, Stormer has all of the pieces except the chassis. You could probably find the chassis someplace. Maybe one of the Japanese on-line shops. |
Originally Posted by Crashby
The YRX-12WE has a thinner chassis with more cutouts than a 12L4 but the most important difference between the YRX-12WE and the 12L4 is the battery placement. The batteries on the Yokomo are the furthest from the centerline of the car, than any other 1/12th scale car. That feature, along with the more flexible chassis, is what makes the YRX-12WE a very good asphalt car. We did some testing with a 12L4 on asphalt by taping the batteries in the car with them hanging out of the battery slots away from the centerline and the car worked much better on asphalt than with the batteries in the stock position. The car worked so much better that JRRC went out and bought an YRX-12WE that next week!! The regular YRX-12 has the batteries in the same position as the 12L4. Only the WE model has the wider battery spacing.
So by saying moving battery outward on chassis would help 1/12 on asphalt, means better traction? or something else? If the traction is better, would CRC CK have very bad asphalt traction since the bettery is in very center of the car. I'm curious because I mainly play on asphalt but I dont like saddle battery, but if inline battery would hurt the performance on asphalt, using T-bar seems the only way to go on asphalt... :confused: |
I am building a new 12th scale (let the hyperdrive go for an addition to my F1 collection) I always us the big ring diff. On my old car I had the IRS version. I now have a CRC and the hub on the oppsite side is huge! Is this to off set weight or should I just use my old lighter one? Thanks :)
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Originally Posted by OVA
I know that the some where in the ROAR Rules , the all pan car must have no roll-over antennas allowed in roar sanctioned event.
Here are the 2005 ROAR rules verbatim: 5.2 GENERAL VEHICLE RULES 5.2.4 No roll-over antennas are allowed unless noted in the class rules. Roll-over antennas are defined as any vertical antenna strong or stiff enough to support the weight of the vehicle when resting on the tip of the antenna and one side of the vehicle. 8.2.1 “Roll-over” antennas are allowed in on-road classes only, not in any oval or offroad classes. The exposed ends of such antennas must be fitted with a button or ball having a diameter of at least 5/16". Just don't want anyone to do something based on incorrect information. |
[QUOTE=ApexSpeed]False. Pan cars have been allowed to run solid rollover antennas for decades.
Solid rollover is the same as no roll over antenna :confused: anyway we both saying the same thing.solid rollover must permitted @ ROAR sanction event all pan car |
No, you previously wrote: "the all pan car must have no roll-over antennas allowed in roar sanctioned event."
I interpreted your comment to mean that no rollover antennas are allowed at ROAR events. Pan cars are definitely allowed to have rollover antennas at all on-road races, ROAR or not. |
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
No, you previously wrote: "the all pan car must have no roll-over antennas allowed in roar sanctioned event."
I interpreted your comment to mean that no rollover antennas are allowed at ROAR events. Pan cars are definitely allowed to have rollover antennas at all on-road races, ROAR or not. |
Originally Posted by OVA
yes I did said that....I really mean saying is you don't to have the solid antenna as long your not racing roar sanction event.....I do understand the ROAR Rules...Thanks
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What profile are you guys that are running a GT7 using in 1/12th stock. I've been working on getting the handling down in my car and haven't touched the ESC since stealing it from my TC.
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Can I start a debate on the benefits of the Airtronics 94145 servo over the KO mini servo (949?)?
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Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
Can I start a debate on the benefits of the Airtronics 94145 servo over the KO mini servo (949?)?
I would love to hear as well. I'm in the market for a new mini servo. |
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
Can I start a debate on the benefits of the Airtronics 94145 servo over the KO mini servo (949?)?
That will be a good topic! I have the 145 and had the 949. I never tried the 949 but I love the 145 which I run in my rug rat. |
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