I had the same problem, those corally tubes aren't the greatest.
So I'm using springs on my SP12M. They came of the front end of a old tamiya formula 1 (f103rs), I've cut them down to 3 coils.
Most of the time I'm using the silver (soft) spring, but I've also got them in medium (copper) and hard (black).

To give you an idea:

For those interested in a cheap Yokomo YRX12-WE...

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pony klr-yes-a L4 is a GREAt car to run. Easy parts availability an ease of tuning and a VERY stable platform. By stable I mean it works well in all conditions and with minimal tuning changes to make it work well.

"What are most of you guys using in your dampner tubes? I'm running a SP12M euros spec car and tried Corally soft but it just doesn't seem to do much. I noticed on some of the setup sheets that guys have used diff lube and am considering trying that, but there are all different types of diff lubes..."

OFNA 7k to 10k/ trinity Joel Johnson diff lube/Trinity "Red Stuff" - I use th Ofna 10k being stiffer............

P.S. The 12L4 kicks butt!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

From what I've seen, the problem with corally tubes is that they have a very loose fit. There's a too large gap between the parts.
I lathed my own tubes for my Pro 10 car. There's very little play between the parts, and they work really well (I smoked the German top drivers with it), without slots in them.
However, if you use tubes with a tight fit, don't use corally damper syrup. It's too firm. Use Losi hydra fluid or CRC tube fluid instead.

I have a question for you guys. I'm running a L3 with a Yok chassis. I know nothing about 1/12th scale mind you, How do I check to make sure that the dampener disk is setup correctly?

Bob,

Smooth is #1.It might help to put some teflon tape from BRP on there.

Try different weight shock oils to suit what your car needs. 30 wt if you thnk pod needs to snap back quickly. 100wt if you think cars dumping over in the corners too quickly or transitioning too quickly too.

Ray

Ok so the only thing that goes between the two disk's would be the tape? I thought that people put lub in there. I was wondering about that...what would keep it from coming out. As far as the shock goes, I understand that...I did run my car last week on a very small track and It did start to feel like the car would unload when I drove it hard. I was told it was the diff being too tight but i think it could be the shock as well....god knows when it was built. I have to get a new axle so the diff will get rebuilt anyway. Is the L4 axle the one to get or is there another out there to get?

Bob-the shock oils I mentioned are for using under the damper plate. Not in the shock. Very little is used-just a smear. Anymore and it collects track debris.

I like the IRS big ring diff as an upgrade. Its got everyting yu need (carbon axle, big diff rings, diff balls, KImbrough spur, etc.) at a good price.

Cool got it. I was going to get the BMI conversion for the car but thats on hold til after xmas. I live about 45 min from Dave so I shouldn't have any problems getting what I need.

I like the car better with tubes. For the conversion I used CRC tubes and ball studs. I modified the top plate by cutting off the stock tube "ears" and drilling holes as close to the center as possible. This allowed the CRC tubes to fit after cutting the ball cups as short as possible.

Kinda off subject, but does anyone know if Stockton is racing on Saturday 11/12 ??

Thanks

No race this Saturday :cry:

Some people are going to Gilroy

Thanks OD, I have to work tonight and Sunday morning. Next week then