Kyosho TF-6
#421
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Another option is to ask Christopher Krapp's dad (Joachim) to ship some parts allthough shipping costs will be quite high I guess. The email adress of Joachim:
RC Point Krapp
[email protected]
#422
try http://www.pro-s-futaba.co.jp/home/a...customers.html
Another option is to ask Christopher Krapp's dad (Joachim) to ship some parts allthough shipping costs will be quite high I guess. The email adress of Joachim:
RC Point Krapp
[email protected]
Another option is to ask Christopher Krapp's dad (Joachim) to ship some parts allthough shipping costs will be quite high I guess. The email adress of Joachim:
RC Point Krapp
[email protected]
thanks dude well im getting this kit one way or another ...rite now i got red star hobbies getting me a quote and i found this place in germany which i need google translator for lol but they got the kit priced well.......and i will definately contact chritopher krapps dad as well.
#423
Guys,
I currently own a SP version of the TF-6. Instead of the front spool, I would like to run the gear diff. But when I assemble it together, the front swing shafts seemed a bit long. the balls on the swing shaft bottoms out in the drive cups. Do I have to get the TF222 swing shaft inorder to have the gear diff fitted? It would be a waste not to use the double jointed swing shafts.
I currently own a SP version of the TF-6. Instead of the front spool, I would like to run the gear diff. But when I assemble it together, the front swing shafts seemed a bit long. the balls on the swing shaft bottoms out in the drive cups. Do I have to get the TF222 swing shaft inorder to have the gear diff fitted? It would be a waste not to use the double jointed swing shafts.
#424
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Guys,
I currently own a SP version of the TF-6. Instead of the front spool, I would like to run the gear diff. But when I assemble it together, the front swing shafts seemed a bit long. the balls on the swing shaft bottoms out in the drive cups. Do I have to get the TF222 swing shaft inorder to have the gear diff fitted? It would be a waste not to use the double jointed swing shafts.
I currently own a SP version of the TF-6. Instead of the front spool, I would like to run the gear diff. But when I assemble it together, the front swing shafts seemed a bit long. the balls on the swing shaft bottoms out in the drive cups. Do I have to get the TF222 swing shaft inorder to have the gear diff fitted? It would be a waste not to use the double jointed swing shafts.
#425
I was following Krapp's setup and used C blocks inside. I guess that's why the gear diff don't fit. Thanks for pointing that out.
#426
Hey guys just another quick question....have any of you guys ever dealt with www.cmc-versand.de the reason i ask is because there selling the tf6 sp for 419 euros...which is substantially cheaper then anywhere else ive looked so just wondering how they are to deal with etc....
#427
Hey guys just another quick question....have any of you guys ever dealt with www.cmc-versand.de the reason i ask is because there selling the tf6 sp for 419 euros...which is substantially cheaper then anywhere else ive looked so just wondering how they are to deal with etc....
http://www.cmc-versand.de/Kyosho/BK-...r-8-30025.html
#429
hahaaha , there will be a new rear belt coming soon also , then i will run mod with my old chassis ;-)
got a set up in my new car that i like ;-) lets see if i can get my track record back ;-)
#430
not when i check , 499 euros , Chrissies dad does them cheaper ;-)
http://www.cmc-versand.de/Kyosho/BK-...r-8-30025.html
http://www.cmc-versand.de/Kyosho/BK-...r-8-30025.html
#432
Groningen is a difficult track to set up for , bumpy and can be dirty , i am happy now though , just need to raise my body a bit now
#433
I talked to a guy named Joachim Krapp ....he quoted me 469 euro which is still a good deal but he doesnt take paypal....so my bank would charge me even more to do a bank transfer.
#434
Registered User
Hey guys,
Finally found some time to get my setup sheet done from the ETS race in Apeldoorn.
A few notes:
- I run the original TF6 arms on my car (shorter ones), please take note of the suspension holders fitting (do not use C-C inside like SP std setup)
- I used the old TF6 upper deck (2.25mm) with the rear carbon link removed for better flex on the rear-end of the car
- At the ETS I ran very little rear toe-in, this requires a smooth(er) driving style to make it work and increases corner speed. When having problems with rear traction just add more toe-in.
- At Apeldoorn I used HPI pink-silver springs, this is a specific setting for that track as the chicane after the straight has rather extreme camber change and 'holes' in the asphalt that your car gets 'sucked' into if you hit the apex right. For regular tracks I use HPI silver-silver for 90% of the times.
- The long front camber links are a Apeldoorn special as well because of its flowing/big layout. On shorter more twisty tracks it could help to run them in the middle hole on the upper bulkhead instead of the longest option to get quicker change of direction.
- On the sheet you'll notice there's no spacer underneath the front-front suspension mount and 0.5mm underneath the front-rear suspension mount. This is again an Apeldoorn setting, most of the time I use 0.5mm underneath the front-front block too.
This setup should work pretty much everywhere (asphalt), it's what I use 90% of the time.
Finally found some time to get my setup sheet done from the ETS race in Apeldoorn.
A few notes:
- I run the original TF6 arms on my car (shorter ones), please take note of the suspension holders fitting (do not use C-C inside like SP std setup)
- I used the old TF6 upper deck (2.25mm) with the rear carbon link removed for better flex on the rear-end of the car
- At the ETS I ran very little rear toe-in, this requires a smooth(er) driving style to make it work and increases corner speed. When having problems with rear traction just add more toe-in.
- At Apeldoorn I used HPI pink-silver springs, this is a specific setting for that track as the chicane after the straight has rather extreme camber change and 'holes' in the asphalt that your car gets 'sucked' into if you hit the apex right. For regular tracks I use HPI silver-silver for 90% of the times.
- The long front camber links are a Apeldoorn special as well because of its flowing/big layout. On shorter more twisty tracks it could help to run them in the middle hole on the upper bulkhead instead of the longest option to get quicker change of direction.
- On the sheet you'll notice there's no spacer underneath the front-front suspension mount and 0.5mm underneath the front-rear suspension mount. This is again an Apeldoorn setting, most of the time I use 0.5mm underneath the front-front block too.
This setup should work pretty much everywhere (asphalt), it's what I use 90% of the time.
#435
Does the tf6 sp offer different degrees of caster blocks...im pretty sure they would just having a heck of a time finding them or getting part numbers for them. Thanks