tunerjetta29

iTrader: (6)

Anyone else notice the front kingpins bind a bit, even after polishing them and with the pinch bolt all the way loose it binds a bit.

tunerjetta29

iTrader: (6)

Well hopefully more people will realize just how good the S100 is and jump on board. Absolutely love the car so far. Built the car, in the morning and missed all the heats. Started last and finished 3rd. Great car right out of the box!

2wdrive

If the kingpin is still straight, The upper A- arm moves down under it's own weight, the pivotballs are still round and move freely in the bottom arm (after some use the bottom pivotball tend to flatten on top of the ball generating more binding) and there is no dirt between the kingpin and the pivotball then that slight binding feeling that you still have is the drawback of the strut suspension.

There is always just a slight binding. You can polish and tweak the suspension to almost 99% no binding but there will always be just a little.

Even with that slight binding strut suspension the mod pro10 are still driving 1/8 nitro laptimes over here and depending on the track even beating them. Doesn't seem to be that much of a hindrance

avs

iTrader: (2)

the faster guys at my local track (TQ Chino, CA, very smooth medium size) seem to be moving to higher spring rates and stiffer damping. (crc parts:.55 fronts, purple black centers, red sides, 50-60k tubes)

just curious, are you dealing with a bumpier surface that is limitiing your choice of spring rates?

it seems that a drivable 1/12 setup is 'easier' to drive on the 1/10. so for a given driver's skill, one could tolerate a 'sharper' tuned 1/10 car?

does this seem reasonable or is there another approach at work?

for me using the kit springs, the car is very drivable. but i feel like i am waiting for it thru corners (compared to 1/12 where i am working to keep up)

miller tyme

iTrader: (5)

I like a very responsive car.
Also you can go too stiff and the light weight car won't actuate the suspension, instead it will rely completely on the tires for traction. I prefer to allow the suspension to do the work. My S-100 is not perfect but it is among the fastest with just a hint of tendency to lift the inside rear.

avs

iTrader: (2)

thanks for the reply, for me midway thru a run, it seems like i am waiting for it to rotate. maybe this is due to other factors? just curious about electronics layout and front droop?

the front has minimum length on the kingpin so there is still close to 1mm of droop. i have the battery forward with the speedo and receiver behind the battery.

Are you getting more steering from putting more weight on the rear?

also, i have been adding SXT to half the front for 10minutes. and generally the fronts are wearing faster than the rear.

miller tyme

iTrader: (5)

I run the ESC centered behind the battery nad the RX Batt on 1 side of ESC and the RX on the other.

Battery back resulted in lifting inside rear too much. I think the inline front axles actually turned better but again it lifted rear a lot. Since I have done a lot of little things to fix the rear lift so I might go back and try the Inline axles to get the Entry snap back.

I am also thinking of laying the servo down for a more direct feel.

avs

iTrader: (2)

thanks for the info. i had to back off (60k to 30k) on the rear damping to avoid the rear lift. (forgot to mention i am using my own damper tube conversion.)
the local fast guys think that the stiffer front springs allow them to can use the higher rear damping and still avoid rear lift. this led me to the paradox, how to sharpen corner entry and rotate quicker without rear lift and retain reasonable drivability.

also forgot to ask whether you are running the front end fwd or aft for long or short wheelbase? is this something to fiddle or do i just leave it long wheelbase?

2wdrive

instead of going stiffer on the side springs and lub you should try to go softer.

The outside tire is lifting the inner tire in a turn and thus also the chassis. When the chassis is hold down by the stiffer springs, the chassis will take the back end with it when the chassis can't lift enough. Going softer does mean dialing steering back in somewhere else but it sure helpt us to get rid of grip roll. I normally run 55-56mm tires and have no griprolls on higher traction tracks

miller tyme

iTrader: (5)

I'm running the first US kit and I don't have an option for changing front wheelbase other than trailing/inline axles I'll have to check out a newer production kit and see if it is a piece I can add/replace.

avs

iTrader: (2)

the riser plate just has 2 sets of holes where the lower arms are fixed. i should think you could match drill your plate based on somebody else's plate.

i can take some dimensions from mine if you like.

miller tyme

iTrader: (5)

I just get another plate. What is your wheelbase either long or short, curious if mine is either/or -or- in the middle somewhere?

avs

iTrader: (2)

the fwd or long position looks to have the holes dead even with the holes on the chassis. the short or aft holes are 3mm back from there.

avs

iTrader: (2)

I see that Markus Mobers is in the Snowbirds WGT Amain. Looking forward to some comments on his setup. One point of interest is 1s battery and electronics layout for weight distribution.

i think the ESC is missing from this picture on Serpent's website?

Alain Patry

iTrader: (22)

Do you have some pics of the world Gt race at the Snowbirds 2011 ?

Thank you, Alain.