robk

iTrader: (22)

Leinzey look into the track at Toledo, OH. That may be an option for you. Also the tracks in sw MI/Detroit.

wilson10

man this thread sure is dead lately........anyone help with the setup I mentioned above?? And My car will be here TOMORROW!! YES My ESC came today too!!

Kevin K

iTrader: (32)

Wilson....If you go deeper into this thread you will come across a couple setups from Adrian for the Mission on the surface you are talking about. They would be good starting points and after you run the car some, come back and tell us how you did and how it felt.

wilson10

Thanks Kevin.........I was planning on doing that (Adrians setup) but I wondered about 60 w oil or 50 wt. I will give it a shot this Sunday and let you all know how I do. This will also be my first Touring car race. I moved to this from gas offroad!! I am excited!!

BagofSkill

I am currently selling my Xpress Swauger pro to buy a Mission. Obviously the Mission is best on the market but does anyone know how these two cars compare?
Also there is something which suprises me a bit. In all of the setups I've seen so far, people tend to be running mininmum 50 up to 80wt shock oil. My last three TC's have been Xpress, Corally and Tech. Racing Voggard and only once have I run oil above 50wt. This includes running outdoors proper tracks, parking lots and carpet. My current setup uses 40wt front and 35 back with two holes open, tamiya blue springs and sway bars all round. How come you guys seem to run such barbaric oils?

Oasis2001

iTrader: (6)

BagOfSkill - Give us an email as Im the Schumacher driver for Australia and can help you out with any questions. Im based in melbourne and will be racing at the Summer Nats in canberra if thats any help

[email protected]

Chris

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

Bagofskill-The shocks are diffrent. Mostly piston size, piston orfice size, and % of blow by. The lightest oil we run in the US is 45-50wt with 2 holes open. That would be on REALLY NASTY bumpy asphalt. Most asphalt courses require 60-70wt with 2 holes open. High traction asphalt and carpet require 70-80wt or higher depending on lower shock mounting point and what you are trying to achieve.

The Xpress was a great car when it was introduced. Unfortunatly it did not develop and progress at the pace that all other cars did in the last 4 years. Changes were made but not always in the right direction. This is whay the car is no longer imported in any serious volume. The Xpress is a beautifully made, top quality car but it is not on par with the current crop of sedans (Mission, TC3, XXX-S).

IMPACTPLAYR

iTrader: (7)

I was speaking with a freind yesterday and was talking about my concern with the 17 tooth pulley problem.

It seems that the Serpent Impulse had the same problem with the rear pulley (post spur/ pre diff) and the pulley had the same "lightening" holes machined thru it. Well they found a suitable fix by threading long set screws thru it. The problem is that the layshaft pin "moves" the plastic around where it sets and once you add the extra material to the pulley the plastic has nowere to go, so it stays still and the pulley lasts alot longer.

Unfortunately there are no setscrews that will fit the small holes in the pulley, so I found some Tamiya pins that fit, but are about 3 mm too long, all you have to do is trim the pins down to 5mm and tap them in gently so they go in straight. Now take another pin and use it to drive the pin in until it bottoms out. It should be recessed about 1mm, the pins are a fairly tight fit, but for security you can add a drop of CA in the hole to lock it in.

Not quite as trick as an aluminum pulley, but a whole lot less expensive. Try it out and see what happens. I will report back also.

Oasis2001

iTrader: (6)

Perhaps a silly question?

Im running Take Off 27 and am having trouble getting even wear on the tyres down the centre. they always wear towards the edge of the tyre which decreases their life massively. I do run lower hub holes increasing camberchange and run about 1 degree camber. i think that even if I ran 0.5 or 0 degrees camber I would still have the problem as the camber change is quite a lot when running lower hub holes. Do you guys tune the car in terms of roll center and camber change to get even tyre wear ever? I presume not. It could be our local track which is on a slope.

Kevin K

iTrader: (32)

Oasis....I tune my camber to tire ware unless there is an extream amount of grip then I run more camber and deal with the tire ware later. When I run the lower holes on the upper mount I run less camber then I do with them in the upper holes.

Oasis2001

iTrader: (6)

Yeah thats what I normally do. Less camber for lower hole due to increased camber change. Just that I am at -1 degree and still get tyre wear on the inside. Ill try -0.5 degrees and see how I go. Is it ok to run 0 degrees?

Kevin K

iTrader: (32)

The only time I have run 0 camber is on foams and only in the front. I have never needed to run it on rubber tires but I have run .5 deg and am currently running my car like that. I dont think it would hurt to run 0 static camber as it will change with the suspension compression. Give it a try its easy to change it back and Im sure it wont be too bad.

Oasis2001

iTrader: (6)

Yeah i will. Thanks for your help

Kevin K

iTrader: (32)

No prob and good luck at the races

JesseT

...back to the pulley issue. I tried the two pulleys yesterday and There was a big difference in the rear belt tightness. With the 20t pulley the rear belt was far too tight in my opinion and I'll be running the 17t for now untill the belt gets more miles on it.