Kirby Masterman

Here's my car with the SP GT ESC and the SP 2.5 and two extra fans (one on the motor and one on the ESC) I need those fans because of the weather down here in Australia is probably the country suffering the most from global warming, the other day i got sunburnt for being outside for about 5mins and it was only 30 degree (celcius)!




I have stuck a novak velociti heat sink ring on my SP motors, it requires a little bit of dremmeling of the heat sink but it makes a massive difference, I emailed my idea to Wilson at SP and he just replied that its not necessary because of the inbuilt fans, but I believe it helps a ton.

my Personal transponder, it got stuck in my wheel as i was racing, thats why there is a massive chunk cut out of it..

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

yeap i did the novak heatsink on my orion 3.5 last year it does help alot

justin lessard

iTrader: (1)

Marco's did You ever get a chance to take a pick of the mod you made to use other spurs?

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

yes is did i have but i was advised not to post it (well not yet)

justin lessard

iTrader: (1)

ah yes,understood

skypilot

iTrader: (14)

what the hay, you guys not smart enough to get into the gravy fleet. US COAST GUARD for me, cherry point, moorhead city, (what were they thinking) stationed at alantic beach, although on the west coast that wouldn't qualifiy for beach. yea been there, i remember watching the monkeys hangin by strings 50 feet below a heli flying around cherry point, yea, not for me, give me, 100 mph winds and 60 foot seas anyday. spent little more then a year at alantic beach NC (wonder why i forgot how to spell alantic)

skypilot

iTrader: (14)

dang,,, you must be a mind reader, perfect, except for the pro squat. thanks,

jonas_h

rx7ttlm

iTrader: (30)

No waves for me thanks...

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

There are three adjustments in the Mi3 Steering system.

1. Velocity Ratio: This is the speed at which the wheek turn in relation to the servo output. The shortest center track rod (steering bell crank) gives a 1:1 ratio. The longer ones make the wheel travel faster then the servo.

For rubber tires on any surface the shorter the better. Rubber tires have a limited ability to maintain adhesion. If you flick them too fast you can force them to break traction by turning the tires too fast to maintain traction. I like the short length center track rods on foam tire.

Foam tires on carpet have an incredible ability to stock to the raciong surface. In this case longer center track rods are usefull to make the car react more quickly on tight trakcs with lots of quick turns. I like the Medium length center track rods on foam tire.

I never run the longest units.

2. Ackermann: This is the differential in angle between the inner wheel and the outer wheel. The narrow center track rods generate less ackermann then the wide ones.

If the track is fast, open and flowing you need very little. If the track is tight and slow you need more.

For rubber tires you generally run the mid width center track rods.

For foam tires you run the mid or narrow ones for less ackermann. Less ackerman reduces inside wheel tire scrub and improves corner speed. However, if you have a really good setup that has plenty of steering you may want to run the mid width to improve low speed cornering. Since the car has steering and the dual rates are turned down the front wheel are not turning much. You never get to the extremes of the ackerman curve...you get just a little even with the more agressive mid center track rod.

3. Ackerman Rate: This is how fast the ackerman rolls in through the steering throw. This is controlled by the position of the steering bell crank system along the center of the chassis.

If you run a short center track rod and run it towards the back the steering turnbuckles will angle forward from the center track rod to the steering spindles at the wheels. This makes the ackerman come on in a linear fashion right away. I prefer for the steeriong rods to angle forward slightly for rubber tires on any surface.

With the same center track rod moved forward as much as possible the steering rods will angle back. This generates little ackerman off center and makes it really kick in at full lock. This is how I prefer it on foam tires.

I hope I didnt cross up anything. Its been a while since PW and I thought all that out

yyhayyim

iTrader: (26)

I have a question about shock rebound...I've been reading in the new Xray T2'008 manual, and they recommend the following:

low traction asphalt......set shock rebound to 75%
med traction................set shock rebound to 50%
high traction................set shock rebound to 25%

What can you share about how shock rebound settings can effect the cars handling on different traction levels and surfaces?

GSM Storm

iTrader: (114)

Hi Guys
Just got a Mi3, what a great car, somewear in this thread I was told there is a post of a great way how to set the diff up, does anyone know what page it is on.

Regards
Gary

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

Here it is...you guys may want to copy and paste it into a word doc so you can refer to it any time.

The Ultimate Mi3 Diff

Before starting think of diff building like cooking with chicken. The black thrust lube is the chicken and if you get it on the diff balls, rings or pulley your diff will get sick and DIE!

Before I start I clean EVERYTHING with motor spray.

Before I start I clean EVERYTHING with motor spray.

Before I start I clean EVERYTHING with motor spray.

1. If you haven't gotten a U1954 Tungsten Carbide Thrust Bearing get one. Its better then the one included in the kit.

Clean it all out and use Schumacher Black Thrust lube. Measure the outside diameter of the thrust washers. The small diameter one goes on the screw first.

Go wash your hands and get every bit grease off your fingers.

2. Sand U2408 diff rings with 600 grit wet dry on both sides using motor spray to wet the paper until you see even scoring of the rings entire surface.

Clean them with motor spray and place them on a clean paper towel.

3. Toss the ceramic diff balls. The U2459 Tungsten Carbide diff balls are smoother and longer lasting. Place the balls on a clean paper towel and CAREFULLY spray them with motor spray to get rid of any protective oil that is on them. If you spray too hard you will launch $15 of diff ball all over you room and they will be gone forever. When they are clean and dry put them in the tub of U1301 Silicone diff grease. Pluck them out and place them in your diff pulley. Thats all the grease you will need.

4. Gradually tighten up the diff until one output starts to spin opposite the other one. Gradually tighten the diff a little then spin it a little until you feel the diff screw has collapsed the spring washers next to the thrust bearing and it doesn't want to turn anymore.

The goal is to tighten the diff but not pit your freshly sanded diff rings.

5. Loosen the diff 1/4 turn then lock down the grub screw on the opposite side.

6. Put the diff in your car and turn everything on. wit the car up on a car stand. Run the car at low throttle while alternately touching each rear wheel until it stops. Repeat this 2-3 time per side.

The diff should be super free, super smooth and should not slip at all.

If you diff slips just once during a race it will score your rings and it will be junk. You will have to rebuild it and flip, re-sand or replace the rings.

The U1954 thrust will last longer than your kit so it will never be the cause of diff problems. The U2459 ball will survive at least 6 months or more. The only things that go bad in a diff assembled with these parts as described are the rings and you can re-sand them several time before you need to replace them.

jonas_h

thank you very much

now i understand my car much better than before

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

The best thing i can share is "not to read the x-ray manual"