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Old 05-22-2007, 08:33 AM
  #19411  
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J
well, he is from south florida,he may be setting up the car to use a 235mm lola body on it!!!
Dont mess with the 10L2 Stranahan version, MJ

Now get the testing on...I need to know what you find out about the Mi3 vs. Type R...compare and share your reviews...and, you didn't even tell me about you selling one of your Type R's
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Old 05-22-2007, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by yyhayyim
Not really. What I mean is this: check out how the 4 front suspension blocks are set up, upper and lower. This give you 0 deg inboard toe. Just do the same for the rear and you'll have 0 deg rear toe, just like the front. All you need to do is adjust the rearmost blocks of the rear suspension. Then all 4 rear should be the same as the 4 front ones for 0 deg inboard toe in front and rear. Then add shims to the rearmost rear suspension blocks to get the toe you need. Its really the same thing. I have tried both ways and see do difference in toe. Its not wider at all, but it does give you that even look all around and much easier to set up and harder to get mixed up. The question is why does Schumacher instructions have us set them up as in the instructions--there must be some reason...anyways, you can try this and try and make your observations...seems to work fine and looks even better. That's how it is on Xray T2's also, and it works OK.
Note that if you run no spacers at all between the bulkhead and the suspension mounts the arms will bind against the bulkheads and at full suspension compression with the diff high the dogbone may bottom out in the outdrive.

Always run at least a .5mm spacer between the suspension mounts and the bulkheads.
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Old 05-22-2007, 08:58 AM
  #19413  
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Originally Posted by AdrianM
Note that if you run no spacers at all between the bulkhead and the suspension mounts the arms will bind against the bulkheads and at full suspension compression with the diff high the dogbone may bottom out in the outdrive.

Always run at least a .5mm spacer between the suspension mounts and the bulkheads.
Thanks Adrian: In the front i'm using 1mm shim between the bulkheads and blocks. In the rear its 2mm. THis gives 0 toe up front, and 0 toe at rear, adn it gives you a zero deg starting point from which to add shims and configure your toe and track. I just add a 1mm shim to the base 2mm in the rearmost rear blocks for about 2mm rear toe. It works the same as it would as per the instructions, the only difference is that now the 4 rear blocks(U3130 and U3129) are configured like the 4 front ones(U3130 & U3129), which makes for a much easier and less confusing initial build, and keeps things simpler and less prone to errors when work needs to be done to that area- in the middle of a race you dont want to get stuck putting things in backwards or one side off, and screw up rear toe...it'll cost precius time....this way doesnt give you wider track or axles barely fitting, either...

So how about it AdrianM...does the "Yohan" suspension block set up have your blessing/approval?

Last edited by yyhayyim; 05-22-2007 at 09:38 AM.
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Old 05-22-2007, 09:21 AM
  #19414  
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Originally Posted by yyhayyim
Dont mess with the 10L2 Stranahan version, MJ

I think that im going to try putting a pancar front end and loose the front spool ,but a link syrstem or a T-plate on the rear,so i can have a lighter and race on dusty tracks with a bunch on nitro cars
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Old 05-22-2007, 09:41 AM
  #19415  
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J
I think that im going to try putting a pancar front end and loose the front spool ,but a link syrstem or a T-plate on the rear,so i can have a lighter and race on dusty tracks with a bunch on nitro cars
dont forget the lola body, too!!
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Old 05-22-2007, 10:21 AM
  #19416  
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Chassis is complete with electronics. Just have to cut the body out. Speed 6 and a DNA2. I'm ready to go for the weekend. I'm taking booth Mi3 and Mi2 to Jackson, NJ for the Saturday night race under the lights.
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Old 05-22-2007, 10:23 AM
  #19417  
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Originally Posted by SRW141
Chassis is complete with electronics. Just have to cut the body out. Speed 6 and a DNA2. I'm ready to go for the weekend. I'm taking booth Mi3 and Mi2 to Jackson, NJ for the Saturday night race under the lights.
How romantic!!!
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Old 05-22-2007, 11:24 AM
  #19418  
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Originally Posted by yyhayyim
How romantic!!!
I hope they play nice together. That brother, sister thing.
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Old 05-22-2007, 12:34 PM
  #19419  
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Had a look at a friends MI3 and as a former MI2EC driver, I must say I was impressed. Bearings span free (even with tight belts), no slop, no binding and very well running diff despite not having run yet.Haven't seen it drive yet though.
Only one thing dissapointed me...the overall weight. It was said that at the recent LRP Masters race, the MI3 weighed in at 20 grams overweight. But since that raced was raced with 5 cells, it'd mean the car would have weighed 1370 grams.
Now...my friend and I weighed his MI3 with pro running gear, LRP brushless and 6 cells. Result: 1520 grams. The only thing we changed from the Masters layout the Schumi drivers used at that race was adding 1 cell.

So; how ON EARTH did the LRP Schumi drivers get it that much further down in weight?
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Old 05-22-2007, 12:57 PM
  #19420  
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Fasttrack Hobbies has 4 Schumacher MI3 left. They are $409.95 plus $7.00 Shipping to the Lower 48.
To order Call the shop at 407-339-1899 or visit our online store at www.fasttrackhobbies.com

We also have just recieved a new shipment of MI3 parts to day, including P-Dub Bumpers and Battery straps. Click Here to check out all the MI3 parts
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Old 05-22-2007, 01:39 PM
  #19421  
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Jan - The team drivers are running Ti turnbuckles, screws and Protoform light weight bodies. We are happy with the cars weight. The only place where we have a problem is EFRA races. The 1350g weight is an error that slipped through when the 5 cell rules were written. They initially wanted to go 4 cell and the 1350g weight was the 4 cell sedan weight. They ended up running 5 cell but forgot to change the weight.

We feel ERFA will correct this for 2008.
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Old 05-22-2007, 01:43 PM
  #19422  
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Jan, I posted a bit ago that mine weighed in at 1440 at last UK national - this is with LRP TC speedo and all the light weight fixings etc - although it was with reg weight shell as the speed 6 is only available like this. I think PW posted a while back that his was around 1450?

The car is a little heavier than others, but not much. All the other top cars i saw weighed in at about 1420-1445 so it's not massively over. I think i may be able to get mine down a little further, but will require a little work.

I do agree with Adrian actually, it wouldn't surprise me to see an EFRA proposal to up the limit for next year. 1350 was the planned 4 cell limit, but when 4 cell got modified to 5, the limit didn't get re-proposed.
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Old 05-22-2007, 03:24 PM
  #19423  
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Originally Posted by PW
It's possible you could use a new barrel in the CVD. I once had a barrel that wasn't threaded far enough and the grub screw would get tight before it put enough pressure on the pin.

Try Darkseid's method first
I'll have a look at that but I used two completely new CVD drive shafts cause I couldn't get the broken pins out of the spool end - teh grub screw appears to tighten up on the pin - I'll have another look.
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Old 05-22-2007, 10:19 PM
  #19424  
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Yo, what bodies are you guys starting with for the race? I wasn't able to get a speed 6 painted up which I hear is working well. I whipped out a one color wonder of a speed 6 but don't want to run it ! I'm thinking if the track is a little lower bite this year I will start with the all purpose 3.0.

Can anyone give me their thoughts on the 3.0 compared to a mazda or something? I haven't run one for a loong time and seem to remember that it didn't rotate as hard as the mazda. It seemed to drive a little bit more from the back end giving you more rear bite. I also recall that it might have rolled more overall? Just wondering what other guys think of that body...

I'm hoping I can get the car to work with a light weight mazda though .
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Old 05-22-2007, 10:39 PM
  #19425  
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Stratus 3.0 - Mellow handling, very smooth and stable.

Mazda 6 - Good blend of steering and stability.

Mazda Speed 6 - More steering than Mazda 6 by giving up some rear stability. Better for tight agressive tracks.

DNA Asphalt -Crazy twitchy steering, does not seem to be as consistant as the 6 and Speed 6.
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