Ask Paul Lemieux, RC America/MOTIV/Gravity RC
#1262
Tech Apprentice
Z3r Motor
Hey Paul im running the z3r motor (21.5) and was wondering if i should i switch to a option rotor for better results on a smaller carpet track (Harbor Hobbies) for example is a torque rotor going to make me lose topend and gain torque? I know theres a blue rotor (torque) a green (high torque) and the red rotor (stock) what do you think is best?
Last edited by Little John; 10-11-2011 at 08:00 PM.
#1263
Hey guys i noticed in some of the pic on rc50 from the icc in vegas Pauly L. and Josh Cyruls 1/12 cars they had lrp mounted with reciever packs.. Paul you could def tell he was running a SSx SS with a fan mounted on the chassis anda reciver pack.. Now joshs you cant tell what lrp speedo it is but he also has a fan mountto the chassis and a reciever pack.. i thought you could not use packs or werent suppose to? Is there a way to or gain from it?
#1264
Tech Adept
hi paul how are you finding the proto speedo????
quick question what additives do you reccomend for outdoor and carpet racing
thanks
lee
quick question what additives do you reccomend for outdoor and carpet racing
thanks
lee
#1265
Tech Regular
iTrader: (14)
Driving Tips
Hey Paul, I've been back in RC racing since early this year. I raced for about 10 years straight in the 90s. When I quit, I was running mod, and doing really well at a club level.
It's been a steep learning curve, but I'm starting to get used to all of the changes in the sport, and the cars. I'm having some trouble getting my driving back to where it used to be. My issue -is probably common- cornering. I'm getting to the point where I'd like to start being more competitive. I seem to make a lot of poor judgements when it comes to corner entry. I make late decisions, and end up wide often. During a race, after this happens a few times, I find myself trying to turn earlier and smacking the wall. It's a dominoe effect and I eventually start overdriving the car mid-race from nervousness, and trying to make up time. My downward spiral has caused me plenty of time as a backmarker, or broken.
I read on Tamiya's website, on a driving tip section, that your vision should lead the car a bit. I suppose like aiming a rifle at a moving target......not that I've ever done that! Haha!!
Your thoughts on my driving?
Thanks again!!
It's been a steep learning curve, but I'm starting to get used to all of the changes in the sport, and the cars. I'm having some trouble getting my driving back to where it used to be. My issue -is probably common- cornering. I'm getting to the point where I'd like to start being more competitive. I seem to make a lot of poor judgements when it comes to corner entry. I make late decisions, and end up wide often. During a race, after this happens a few times, I find myself trying to turn earlier and smacking the wall. It's a dominoe effect and I eventually start overdriving the car mid-race from nervousness, and trying to make up time. My downward spiral has caused me plenty of time as a backmarker, or broken.
I read on Tamiya's website, on a driving tip section, that your vision should lead the car a bit. I suppose like aiming a rifle at a moving target......not that I've ever done that! Haha!!
Your thoughts on my driving?
Thanks again!!
#1266
hi paul i am using the thunder power 17.5 in the blinky class just wondering what degree on the motor should i start with and what rotor should i use.the track size is just like the iic
#1267
Hi, Im back now. Thanks for your patience!!
Hi. Their is a difference but I always use the bolt on guages, they are always 100% consistent. I think as long as you use the same method all the time you are fine. I choose the bolt on guages BC they are user error free.
Thanks.
Hi. as a (rubber tire) rule of thumb I will start by making the camberlinks paralell to the lower arm then add 1mm to the outside. from their if you need the car to be more responsive but roll less you can add shims to the outside of iether the front or rear. I cant say that i always get more steering one way or a nother. but generally the flatter the camber link the more the car is rolling weather you feel it or not.
if you need more rear grip i would suggest taking out 1mm of ackermann shimms on the steering bell crank and or adding a little rear camber.
Thanks.
Hi. It all depends on the speedo settings. I would start with a moderate speedo setting geared at a 6.2 (Safe), then check temp. I would then dial up the speedo untill you see temps after 5 min 170-180deg f. the gear should be close for that size track. Thanks!
I assume that this is for a TC or VTA. No Guarantees here but i would put my money on a blue rotor, 35deg timing, 3.5 overall, obviously no boost class. or atleast that is where i would start fairly safely. good luck!.
Yup, Im not sure what Josh is running but I used a sxx ss version 1 in my car. the fan is to keep the speedo at a good operating temp, without the fan it can run around 200deg f. In testing with that version speedo i found a RX pack to have better power threwout the run. I only use the RX pack switch (speedo switch Always OFF). Rx packs are legal and i think most people use them, mainly to have proper consistent voltage to your electronics.
Thanks
Hi. I am finding it to have good potential, in some applications it is very good. Their is no time line for the release.
for the sauce it depends. for carpet i suggest using whatever others are using, it makes it easy for all racers and the track will stay more consistent that way.
for Asphalt their are many variables. on dusty tracks a thinner sauce like FX2, LG1 will work well BC it has less oil in it and will not pick up the dust as much. for non dusty or sugar water tracks i find that the thicker more oily sauces work well. LG2, LRP, MR33 all examples of those kind. I normally use LG2 applied VERY thin and let air dry, results are normally good as long as you dont apply too thick.
Hi. Its really hard to say what is going on. I wish i had a better answer than this but i think it all comes down to practice. i dont really know where i focus on the car but i would say that i am watching the front of the car more than anything.
This method hurts me in many other styles of tracks but for carpet TC i pretty much run the car to the corner then turn, if i find my self trying to set up and have a perfect sweeping entry to the apex i will have many mistakes also. for nerves (im not the best at all) but you have to try to be more focused and not to care if you crash as much.
Im sure thats not the answer you were hoping for but i hope it helps some!.
Hi. I would first try the green rotor geared 4.0 timing at 25. check the temp and tune for 170 after 5 min. if the temp is cool feel free to go up on timing or gear.
Thanks.
Thanks.
What changes do you find the shims on the outer end of the camber links make?
Does adding more shims increase initial or mid corner steering?
I ask as I require slightly more grip at the rear and was wondering if adding and removing shims would have the desired effect.
I am already running the wider front wishbone shims and the hex's mentioned in your carpet setups.
Skiddins
Does adding more shims increase initial or mid corner steering?
I ask as I require slightly more grip at the rear and was wondering if adding and removing shims would have the desired effect.
I am already running the wider front wishbone shims and the hex's mentioned in your carpet setups.
Skiddins
if you need more rear grip i would suggest taking out 1mm of ackermann shimms on the steering bell crank and or adding a little rear camber.
Thanks.
Hey Paul im running the z3r motor (21.5) and was wondering if i should i switch to a option rotor for better results on a smaller carpet track (Harbor Hobbies) for example is a torque rotor going to make me lose topend and gain torque? I know theres a blue rotor (torque) a green (high torque) and the red rotor (stock) what do you think is best?
Hey guys i noticed in some of the pic on rc50 from the icc in vegas Pauly L. and Josh Cyruls 1/12 cars they had lrp mounted with reciever packs.. Paul you could def tell he was running a SSx SS with a fan mounted on the chassis anda reciver pack.. Now joshs you cant tell what lrp speedo it is but he also has a fan mountto the chassis and a reciever pack.. i thought you could not use packs or werent suppose to? Is there a way to or gain from it?
Thanks
for the sauce it depends. for carpet i suggest using whatever others are using, it makes it easy for all racers and the track will stay more consistent that way.
for Asphalt their are many variables. on dusty tracks a thinner sauce like FX2, LG1 will work well BC it has less oil in it and will not pick up the dust as much. for non dusty or sugar water tracks i find that the thicker more oily sauces work well. LG2, LRP, MR33 all examples of those kind. I normally use LG2 applied VERY thin and let air dry, results are normally good as long as you dont apply too thick.
Hey Paul, I've been back in RC racing since early this year. I raced for about 10 years straight in the 90s. When I quit, I was running mod, and doing really well at a club level.
It's been a steep learning curve, but I'm starting to get used to all of the changes in the sport, and the cars. I'm having some trouble getting my driving back to where it used to be. My issue -is probably common- cornering. I'm getting to the point where I'd like to start being more competitive. I seem to make a lot of poor judgements when it comes to corner entry. I make late decisions, and end up wide often. During a race, after this happens a few times, I find myself trying to turn earlier and smacking the wall. It's a dominoe effect and I eventually start overdriving the car mid-race from nervousness, and trying to make up time. My downward spiral has caused me plenty of time as a backmarker, or broken.
I read on Tamiya's website, on a driving tip section, that your vision should lead the car a bit. I suppose like aiming a rifle at a moving target......not that I've ever done that! Haha!!
Your thoughts on my driving?
Thanks again!!
It's been a steep learning curve, but I'm starting to get used to all of the changes in the sport, and the cars. I'm having some trouble getting my driving back to where it used to be. My issue -is probably common- cornering. I'm getting to the point where I'd like to start being more competitive. I seem to make a lot of poor judgements when it comes to corner entry. I make late decisions, and end up wide often. During a race, after this happens a few times, I find myself trying to turn earlier and smacking the wall. It's a dominoe effect and I eventually start overdriving the car mid-race from nervousness, and trying to make up time. My downward spiral has caused me plenty of time as a backmarker, or broken.
I read on Tamiya's website, on a driving tip section, that your vision should lead the car a bit. I suppose like aiming a rifle at a moving target......not that I've ever done that! Haha!!
Your thoughts on my driving?
Thanks again!!
This method hurts me in many other styles of tracks but for carpet TC i pretty much run the car to the corner then turn, if i find my self trying to set up and have a perfect sweeping entry to the apex i will have many mistakes also. for nerves (im not the best at all) but you have to try to be more focused and not to care if you crash as much.
Im sure thats not the answer you were hoping for but i hope it helps some!.
Hi. I would first try the green rotor geared 4.0 timing at 25. check the temp and tune for 170 after 5 min. if the temp is cool feel free to go up on timing or gear.
Thanks.
#1270
Tech Regular
ecs driveshafts
Hey Paul,
Good result at Vegas considering the competition, Andy Moore races at my local club in the UK and he is plenty fast!!!
I'm thinking about getting some ECS driveshafts, I know that they will make the car smoother when on lock, but do you notice this when driving and does it improve lap times? Always indoors, rubber on carpet??
Good result at Vegas considering the competition, Andy Moore races at my local club in the UK and he is plenty fast!!!
I'm thinking about getting some ECS driveshafts, I know that they will make the car smoother when on lock, but do you notice this when driving and does it improve lap times? Always indoors, rubber on carpet??
#1271
Hey Paul,
Good result at Vegas considering the competition, Andy Moore races at my local club in the UK and he is plenty fast!!!
I'm thinking about getting some ECS driveshafts, I know that they will make the car smoother when on lock, but do you notice this when driving and does it improve lap times? Always indoors, rubber on carpet??
Good result at Vegas considering the competition, Andy Moore races at my local club in the UK and he is plenty fast!!!
I'm thinking about getting some ECS driveshafts, I know that they will make the car smoother when on lock, but do you notice this when driving and does it improve lap times? Always indoors, rubber on carpet??
#1272
Thanks.
Hey Paul,
Good result at Vegas considering the competition, Andy Moore races at my local club in the UK and he is plenty fast!!!
I'm thinking about getting some ECS driveshafts, I know that they will make the car smoother when on lock, but do you notice this when driving and does it improve lap times? Always indoors, rubber on carpet??
Good result at Vegas considering the competition, Andy Moore races at my local club in the UK and he is plenty fast!!!
I'm thinking about getting some ECS driveshafts, I know that they will make the car smoother when on lock, but do you notice this when driving and does it improve lap times? Always indoors, rubber on carpet??
I definately agree with the handling. what do you commonly break on them?
#1273
Yup, Im not sure what Josh is running but I used a sxx ss version 1 in my car. the fan is to keep the speedo at a good operating temp, without the fan it can run around 200deg f. In testing with that version speedo i found a RX pack to have better power threwout the run. I only use the RX pack switch (speedo switch Always OFF). Rx packs are legal and i think most people use them, mainly to have proper consistent voltage to your electronics.
Thanks
Thanks
Hoping you can help me out a bit with this, I am totally new to 12th but looking to run one soon, with a 17.5 TP motor and lrp sxx tc v1. From the above, do I need to remove any esc wires to the rx or do I plug everything in just as I would a 2s car, but then also run an rx pack, and with the esc switched off? Will this work?
Also, will I be ok with a standard TP 17.5 motor for 1S racing, or does it really need option bits to run?
Thanks,
Dave
#1275
So I end up with lots of slack in the drivetrain. The main problem with that is that we can't buy the axles separately.
Haven't snapped a pin in a very long time.
Occasionally I also bend a dogbone (managed it last Sunday).
This sort of stuff only seems to happen to me when carpet racing due to the close and less forgiving barriers.