jgraham37128

iTrader: (25)

Paul, I rebuilt my diff and I installed Xray ceramic diff balls along with a Xray ceramic thrust bearing. Now the diff loosens each time I run. I've double checked everything and all is installed like the book says. Am I missing something or why is it doing this?

Also on another note my car is somewhat fast, but it's hard to drive. I would like to take some roll out of the car. When going threw a chicane I want the back end to be more planted. It seems I have to chase it threw the chicane.

Thanks,

JG

Paul L

Hi Dave. Yes, i run a RX pack with everything the same as without but i only switch on the RX pack, speedo switch always off. The stock rotor should work well in that application. The stock rotor may need to be geared lower than normal BC it is more of a rpm rotor.

Thanks!
I normally run standard plastic shocks, those pistons are 1.0 i beleive. with three hole front i normally run 600 or 700 oil. with 2 hole i normally run 400 or 500 in front. I cant honestly tell what the advantage is of one over the other. If you test it i would like to hear what you think.
Thanks

I have also seen the same over time with my ECS's, they will get sloppy. mine do last a good while though. It is obvious but important for the life of the assymbly to keep them very well greased. With double the pins and tolerances their is potential for much greater slop than a normal driveshaft. they do sell the "shaft case" seprately pn 305250. i think that over time the majority of your slop will be in that pece if the rest is always well greased.
the bone is also sold serpately but no i dont see the axle sold seprately.
sorry i couldnt be more help.



Hi. I have seen this once in a while. it could be a few things. Check and make sure that you didn't loose the plastic pece in the back of the male outdrive, it acts as a the back of a lock nut after the threads of the outdrive. I have seen those fall out ocationally.
I suppose that it is also possible that that plastic pece is their but is worn out and not holding the threads of the screw, then i would try to replace it.
The only other thing that it could be is that the thrust is not working properly. if their is some extra drag in the thrust side with the diff screw, thrust washers, and or outdrive it could loosen up do to the thrust not doing its job properly.
You will have to trouble shoot it but those are the only scinarios that i can think of.

Thanks, hope you figure it out. if not PM me and we will take the next step.

jake95

iTrader: (27)

hi paul
do you run drag brake on esc what percent do you normally run and if you do, do you change through diffrent tracks small large etc.
thanks
jake

Paul L

Hi Jake, I do run drag brake. it is defferent on different speedos though.
On my LRP i normally start at 3 and sometimes go to 4 if i feel that i need it.
On carpet i dont find it as nessissary bc you can kinda throw the car in to the corner and get it to slow down like that but i still run 3 or 4 normally.
On asphalt it is very important to have a proper amount BC you need to be so smooth and really slow the car down before laying in to the wheel getting in to a corner, all to not overheat the front tires.
really those drag brake settings still mean nothing BC Drag brake is highly dependent on your gear ratio and rotor as well. But yes drag brake is good, too much is not good though.

Thanks

TEXT

Hey its alex,

I just wanted to say thanks again for helping me with Lipos, and I'll let you know when I have some time during winter break so I can come testing with you or whatever. Your the man Paul! Best in the midwest and nation ! Do you have any off-road stuff? Would love to race against you haha , if you race with people who are better than you, you are going to want to push yourself to be better!

Craig W

iTrader: (1)

hi paul

with 17.5t boosted how much motor time should i run
ran motor for the first time last night and it felt real good on 6.35 motor temp was 89f but i turned motor timing up to 35 and motor temp went up to 189f so dont know whether to go to 6.2 as you said to run as i run hw xtreme stock track in 1 more carpet wider that iic but same length

jake95

iTrader: (27)

thanks paul

Benzaah

iTrader: (24)

Paul, would you consider drag brake to be as important in stock classes where we are trying to carry as much corner speed as possible?

Blue Screw

Paul..


to add on to my question with the rec pack with the lrp... why did u choose the ss v1 over the v2.. and will the v2 be ok to run arec pack?

Paul L

No problem. i dont have any off road stuff right now. you dont want to race me in off road anyways, I suck lol.

see ya.

Hi. it all really depends on the speedo setting. the motor will run its coolest at 15-20 deg timing, for 17.5 boosted i would run it at 20deg, 6.2 then tune the speedo to have the motor run 180-190 deg after a whole race. I think then you will be close. for your motor to jump up 100degs seems almost impossible. i would go back and test that again. when temping the motor find the hottest spot and always measure it from that exact spot. make sure to ease up on it with the speedo setting.


no problem!

Not really BC in slower classes with the gearing being so high you will have to use a lot of drag brake to get the car to really slow down. this will make the motor temp run higher. so basicly what im saying is that i would trade a tooth of speed on the pinion for drag brake if the motor was going to run the same temp. I would always shoot for a motor temp then figure out how i can get the most speed while staying at that temp, normally this means less drag brake so the motor runs cooler, theni can gear or time it more and have the right temp.

Im not 100% sure on that, basicly what it came down to for me is that i tested the original V1 speedo when it came out, I tuned on it and had success with good speed. since then i have not set out to test the new software BC any testing i have done has been focused on the chassis BC my power was fine. I think the V2 you dont need the RX pack but its possible that it will run better with one still ?
I hate to pawn your question off, but you may be better asking one of the AE guys on here BC i am more than a little behind on the LRP testing right now.

Sorry, Thanks!!

sorry.

franc furter

iTrader: (1)

Paul, do you ever tune with stiffer or softer chassis/top decks? If so on what conditions do you make a change? thanks

Craig W

iTrader: (1)

after testing last night motor temp after 5min was 144f with fdr of 6.35 with 17.5t motor does not like to be over timed on speedo so going try d4 settings next week.

Paul L

Hi. I dont tune much with chassis flex much. over the past couple of years i have settled on a feel which i find to work well in most conditions. I have had really soft chassis in the past and i find that the car is a little bit numb but then will do inconsistent things in the center of the corner out (push or get loose). when the chassis is too stiff the car seems to un load and diff out if the set up is not perfect.
For your refrence I felt like on the T3 2010 car the right amount of flex was the stock chassis and top deck with the steering stand offs and all the availible screws. Thanks!!

Ok, That is WAY safe. if you dont like the speedo timing but feel like the bottom end was ok I would try going up one tooth on the pinion and 5 to 10 degs more motor timing. temp should come up 15 to 20degs. That puts you more in the ball park for temp but still a very safe next step.

Good luck

J.Lee

iTrader: (10)

hey paul. awesome thread mate!
would you know what kind of mechanical timing on the tp 17.5 z3r would be optimal for 12th scale 17.5 blinky. i have a blue rotor but no stock rotor. thank you in advanced!

Paul L

I havent tested with our 17.5 in 12th blinky but i would guess 30-35 deg, blinky classes usually call for more motor timing.

In timing speedo classes i would prefer to keep the motor in its best range of efficiency (10-20deg for TP motors) to keep the temp down, Then Time the speedo.

Thanks.