nnick

iTrader: (1)

I found some pics at the BMI thread. It looks very interesting and people that already used it are thrilled! That's good!

I have sent email to Jason and waiting for his reply.

By moving forward the batteries will gain better steering isn't? Is this .062 (or .350) movement sufficient for us no pro drivers enough to understand any handling change?

Nick

Al_Scho

on one of our uk forums we have been disscusing roll centre, what roll centre placement on the bulkheads would you guys recomend. For a fast flowing high grip asphalt track?

Thanks in advance

MR JOLLY

Alex
Seen that on rcracecrap, very confusing
I run in the top holes on the bulkhead rear & middle on front, this does seem to work very well at barham, tryed the lower on the back but it wasn`t as nice or stable, you will find the kit setup on the sheet not the manual works very well

Pyramid

Hi All,


How did you work around the chassis tweaks (T1FK) when the upper is bolt down? I mean, before putting upper deck, chassis is flat, after placing the upper deck, they are still flat, after screwing, the are tweak (yes, there others hand holding front and rear side of the car when screwing). Thanks for any info.

dontfeelcold

iTrader: (22)

put the chassis on droop blocks with the top deck undone, do the top deck and it should be right, if you twist the car while you do the topdeck up it will keep the twist in it.

Pyramid

Thanks for your info... I`m not sure if it solve my problem doing it that way. I mean there is no reason to install top deck while the chassis is supported with droop block as I think flat glass will be much straighter and flatter in anyway. The problem is after putting all 4 screws, bottom deck (chassis) become tweak. If without screw (upper deck it is position in bulkhead), chassis is OK (tweak free). All bulkhead height is in perfect/same point for all four. So I know it is not the bulkhead that make it twist, it must be something to do with the upperdeck. I also tried installing upper deck upside down, meaning I could reaarange the hole for screws then screwed them all down... still gives same results. At this point, all I can think of is bolting the upperdeck togeter with Fr and Rr bulkhead then bold them down to the chassis and see if the problems gone.

scmicromike

iTrader: (3)

I noticed this problem with the raycer chasis as well. I thought it was just a prob with the composite chasis giving to much flex and not being strong enough to resist a tweek. but I guess it can happen with the CF chasis too. I also noticed that this tweek is pulling the front and the back of the chasis up like 2 to 3 mm. cause when I take my ride heighth from the recomended positions ( front of arm where the chasis protrudes to the bumper and the very rear of the car where the bumper is located) there is a deastic difference from the four corners of the tub of the chasis.

If anyone has suggestions for pyramid and I please feel free

berger

iTrader: (1)

Can someone give me an exact weight on each of the differentials, the Ball Differential With Labyrinth Dust Covers
Ball Differential With Labyrinth Dust Covers (Factory Version with the lightened outdrives) And the Ball Differential - Spring Steel - Set.
Just wondering how much difference in mass between them is and how noticable it is.

Denney

Berger - You're in luck...mostly. I just finished building my FK & upgraded to a spring steel front diff (thought it might hold up better in mod racing), & weighed my diffs before assembly. The standard FK rear diff & one-way both weighed in at almost exactly 20 grams (.7 oz), the spring steel diff came in at 25.5 grams. Can't help on the original (pre FK) style diff.

Denney

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

The chassis and top deck should be tested without anything on them at all. If cars are that out of tweak-then its a build issue or the chassis pieces will have to wobble on a piece of glass. If the top deck and bottom decks arent wobbling on a surfce plate-then something somewhere is in the wrong hole or a droop screw is already touching the chassis at ride height......

berger

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, it doesnt matter about the last one as thats whats in my car (evo 2 with FK bits) so ill just have to wrench it to bits and weigh it up. I can see it being 30g+ easily for it so i guess it is probably worth buying two spring steel diffs or the lightened ones....

Pyramid

I`m little surprise myself no one has this problem beside you and I (and all my friends here).

Anyway, in my case with T1FK, all has been solve perfectly. As I mentioned before of what I could think of doing next, I bolt down top deck with the bulkhead first then tighten all bulkhead screws to chassis one by one. Apperantly if you mount the bulkhead first, the top hole for upperdeck might slighly miss aling (mostly the front as the rear have `brace`) that gives you those side by side tweak. Hope it solves your problem too.

Pyramid

To be more precise, for the rear bulkhead, do not built according to manual step. Built the buklhead outside the chassis together with its brace. Then put on top of glass table and see if bulkhead sits perfectly (for sure it wont). Use you hand to manually twist between L and R bulkhead to make sure they sits perfectly on glass. Then mount to chassis and start putting screws one by one and tighthen in `star` pattern.

Neil Rabara

That's a good way to ensure that the bulkheads are on correctly. But would have to do that after every run.

GoldFinger

No need to do that, as long as the shocktower has not been taken off.