3LikesXray T1
11-12-2003, 05:24 AM
#5131
scrad- I was thinking about it yesterday I also had issues with the plastic upper bumper. I really like the X-Raycer cost/performance and I'm sure if I didn't encounter any obstacles (hit stuff) I wouldn't need to replace anything. I also know that at my local track there is alot of other racers who come by my pits to look at my T1R. Make their comments and move on, I generally tell them about the rubber band effect (slingshot) as I'm passing them on the course!!!
It seems to work I've got them watching. Back to the point oh yeah I ran down south with the nitro club and one of those guys rear ended me during practice in the straight (200') and he broke one of my shocks
. And ironically I didn't notice it until after the first qualifier but otherwise no damage!! Good Luck keep the X in the front
It seems to work I've got them watching. Back to the point oh yeah I ran down south with the nitro club and one of those guys rear ended me during practice in the straight (200') and he broke one of my shocks . And ironically I didn't notice it until after the first qualifier but otherwise no damage!! Good Luck keep the X in the front
11-12-2003, 06:09 PM
#5132
Hi all. Eric here. That's my car Ray posted pics of with the modified front end. I also was tired of breaking plastic C blocks and steering knuckles, and bending dogbones. Even aluminum C blocks can bend, especially running mod. I bent one so bad, it had about 25 degrees of caster 
So I tried this setup on my cars for stock and mod. Yes the setup would work with aluminum C blocks, but it's kinda redundant. Even running mod this past weekend, I didn't break a single plastic C block, a arm, or steering knuckle. There is literally NO flex anymore, which is what breaks the C blocks and steering knuckles, bends the dogbones, cracks the a arm, and makes the handling less consistent. The extra weight of the radius rod, ball stud, ball ends, and xtra long bolt to hold it on top of the C block, can be mostly cancelled out by being able to use plastic C blocks instead of aluminum.
So far, so good. The Indoor Champs will be the ultimate test of how much punishment this setup can really take
Although racing with Ray provides plenty of punishment :P
So I tried this setup on my cars for stock and mod. Yes the setup would work with aluminum C blocks, but it's kinda redundant. Even running mod this past weekend, I didn't break a single plastic C block, a arm, or steering knuckle. There is literally NO flex anymore, which is what breaks the C blocks and steering knuckles, bends the dogbones, cracks the a arm, and makes the handling less consistent. The extra weight of the radius rod, ball stud, ball ends, and xtra long bolt to hold it on top of the C block, can be mostly cancelled out by being able to use plastic C blocks instead of aluminum.
So far, so good. The Indoor Champs will be the ultimate test of how much punishment this setup can really take
Although racing with Ray provides plenty of punishment :P
11-12-2003, 08:36 PM
#5133
Tech Fanatic
It seems like it might be tricky to get camber properly adjusted with two upper links. Do you have a problem with it? Also, if you made the new upper link a little short would it give you more caster? Something I would want to avoid.
I've broken a lot of c hubs. But right now I seem to be spending most money on the rear uprights. It happens when I hit a pipe with my rear wheel and the wheel gets forced in from the top of it and than that forces the screw holding the camber link in place out of the plastic. I think this would be taken care of with the aluminum ones. But I haven't broken for about a week so I'm holding off on aluminum ones until I break the 3 uprights I have for replacements.
I've broken a lot of c hubs. But right now I seem to be spending most money on the rear uprights. It happens when I hit a pipe with my rear wheel and the wheel gets forced in from the top of it and than that forces the screw holding the camber link in place out of the plastic. I think this would be taken care of with the aluminum ones. But I haven't broken for about a week so I'm holding off on aluminum ones until I break the 3 uprights I have for replacements.
11-12-2003, 08:47 PM
#5134
Tech Regular
they used that mod on the ol pro 3's.. and the arguement came up about active caster.. ie .. as the suspension compresses, the second link pulls the whole hob arrangement back also.. thus giving mor caster mid corner..
just somethign to consider
Rob Storey
just somethign to consider
Rob Storey
11-13-2003, 12:25 AM
#5137
Tech Regular
sweet..
thats awesome.. now i can get pro setups on rctech lol
ROb Storey
thats awesome.. now i can get pro setups on rctech lol
ROb Storey
11-13-2003, 05:37 AM
#5138
Originally posted by racenut123
You guys must be happy that Josh Cyrul is running fo Xray now.Man hes an awsome driver!
You guys must be happy that Josh Cyrul is running fo Xray now.Man hes an awsome driver!
11-13-2003, 06:08 AM
#5139
Originally posted by Carbon_Fibre3
sweet..
thats awesome.. now i can get pro setups on rctech lol
ROb Storey
sweet..
thats awesome.. now i can get pro setups on rctech lol
ROb Storey
11-13-2003, 06:48 AM
#5140
Originally posted by Stealth_RT
Hi all. Eric here.
So far, so good. The Indoor Champs will be the ultimate test of how much punishment this setup can really take Although racing with Ray provides plenty of punishment :P
Hi all. Eric here.
So far, so good. The Indoor Champs will be the ultimate test of how much punishment this setup can really take
Although racing with Ray provides plenty of punishment :P
But seriousely-that was a fun race!!
11-13-2003, 02:22 PM
#5142
Well, as for part numbers, not real sure. I used what I had lying around in the parts box, from both the EVO2 and T1R. The rods are mounted to the upper deck using the ball ends from the EVO2. Ball studs are screwed into the bulkhead where the original countersunk screws went. I used an aluminum beveled washer under the ball stud to cover over the countersunk hole in the upper deck. You could probably use 2 stacked normal washers under it too, but the red is purty.
On top of the C block, the camber rod end is a captured-ball end with the large unthreaded pivot ball from the T1R. Have to use the large pivot ball end, the small T1R pivot ball end doesn't pivot up-and-down enough for good suspension movement. The radius rod end is the same captured ball end. You could probably use the same large unthreaded T1R pivot ball, but I didn't have enough laying around, so I used the threaded pivot ball with the internal 3mm hex that the EVO2 uses to mount the shocks. You will need a long bolt to hold the ends on top of the C block. A bolt 16-17 mm long is needed, so that you get as much thread into the C block so it doesn't rip out in a wreck. For my stock car, I had some long button head bolts that I cut to length. When I did the mod car, I had to use some stainless countersunk phillips head bolts cut to length.
You can use the stock turnbuckles for the radius rod, or a Ti turnbuckle of similar length. I used some left over stock ones on my stock car, since I'm not worried about weight on it. I used Ti ones on the mod car, as it's a pig.
As far as the radius rods changing the camber as the suspension moves, you just have to make sure the radius rod is adjusted to the proper length. How I do this: Take the shocks off, but leave the wheels on. Make sure the arms are freely sitting all the way down on the droop screws. If not, adjust the radius rod until it is. Then move the suspension up and adjust the radius rod until the suspension moves freely up a decent amount before it starts to resist. Then make sure again that the arms drop freely to sit on the droop screws. If I make a camber change, just make sure to turn the radius rod the same amount or maybe just a little more, as its on an angle and will need to turn more for the same amount of camber change. Remember that the suspension is only going to move about 3-4 mm at most before the chassis bottoms out on the ground. So you dont need the arms to move freely beyond that.
On top of the C block, the camber rod end is a captured-ball end with the large unthreaded pivot ball from the T1R. Have to use the large pivot ball end, the small T1R pivot ball end doesn't pivot up-and-down enough for good suspension movement. The radius rod end is the same captured ball end. You could probably use the same large unthreaded T1R pivot ball, but I didn't have enough laying around, so I used the threaded pivot ball with the internal 3mm hex that the EVO2 uses to mount the shocks. You will need a long bolt to hold the ends on top of the C block. A bolt 16-17 mm long is needed, so that you get as much thread into the C block so it doesn't rip out in a wreck. For my stock car, I had some long button head bolts that I cut to length. When I did the mod car, I had to use some stainless countersunk phillips head bolts cut to length.
You can use the stock turnbuckles for the radius rod, or a Ti turnbuckle of similar length. I used some left over stock ones on my stock car, since I'm not worried about weight on it. I used Ti ones on the mod car, as it's a pig.
As far as the radius rods changing the camber as the suspension moves, you just have to make sure the radius rod is adjusted to the proper length. How I do this: Take the shocks off, but leave the wheels on. Make sure the arms are freely sitting all the way down on the droop screws. If not, adjust the radius rod until it is. Then move the suspension up and adjust the radius rod until the suspension moves freely up a decent amount before it starts to resist. Then make sure again that the arms drop freely to sit on the droop screws. If I make a camber change, just make sure to turn the radius rod the same amount or maybe just a little more, as its on an angle and will need to turn more for the same amount of camber change. Remember that the suspension is only going to move about 3-4 mm at most before the chassis bottoms out on the ground. So you dont need the arms to move freely beyond that.
11-14-2003, 12:10 AM
#5143
Tech Master
Hate to jump in the middle of something here but do any of you guys know what xray spring is equivalent to the serpent yellow? Thanks in advance and carry on.
11-14-2003, 08:05 AM
#5144
Tech Rookie
