Neil Rabara

That's a 3mm wrench (open end). If you can't get one on the Hudy site, you can go to a local hardware store and pick one up.

Scrad

iTrader: (16)

Well I'm not a beginner, but the raycer seems pretty cool. I'm just not thrilled with dropping $330 on a car. What spares to you suggest getting. I know some arms, but what other stuff commonly breaks on the car?

pkranger63

Yeah I knew it was 3mm in size but I am having a heck of a time finding a wrench that small. Even Snap-On tools only list a wrench that goes to 3.2mm. Is the lundsford wrench 3mm? Probably not since its a US company. No biggie..the search will continue

Thanks
Matt

pkranger63

Please disregard I broke down and gave the Hudy E-shop another chance

redsand

No, it is not the shock body that causes leaking problem. The things that might be the culprit are the bladder and o-ring.
I spoke to Mario Hudy, and he suggested to first check the top bladder when rebuilding the shocks.

I too prefer fixed to the clicker just one less thing to mess around.

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

Problem solved....
I switched all my shock to the threaded TC3 shocks.

sup

guys, i need some advice.. i am new to rc and was looking around for kits and stuff to begin rc. well, i found some kits offered to me: tc3 team kit and a xray t1. would just like to ask your advice regarding which kit to choose? will it be the tc3 team kit or the xray t1? oh, the xray t1 has a spring steel hop-ups for the moving parts (what does this mean).

your advice and comments will be greatly appreciated. thanks!

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

get the Xray...
spring steel hop-ups will last forever. will take alot of abuse before you'll have to replace the parts. the Xray is more durable than the TC3. Very easy to break the arms on the TC3...Xray's built like a tank! Quality, workmanship, and materials are second to none on the Xray. You will not be dissappointed.!

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

Even with new bladders in place, aluminum shock bodies..they still leak. I did replace the bladders with one made by General Silicone...the leak did go away. I replaced all the shocks to TC3's

sup

rc-zombie, considering that the xray t1 is an (relatively) older kit than the evo2, is it still worth it? will evo2 parts fit the t1 or will i have problems with parts in the future? thanks for the quick reply by the way..

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

The T1 is still worth it...Evo2 parts will fit with no problems.
only major differences are the chassis and you will not have any broblem with parts in the future. When it's time to replace parts..just replace them with EVO2 parts.

sup

ok rc-zombie.. thanks a lot! the truth is, i am leaning toward choosing the tc3 team kit already and suddenly, someone offered me this xray t1 kit. i guess i will be off thinking about this thoroughly.. will give an update on which kit i get. thanks again and other comments and suggestions are still welcome.

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

I have both the Evo2 and TC3... Evo2 is faster!

theisgroup

iTrader: (10)

I think the tc3 is a little easier to setup for a newbie to the rc scene. The problem that I had was that is was definately not the most durable car. I put the rpm wide bumper on the front and this seem to help the problem. So just to start out with the tc3 is a good car.

Once you get into the rc scene, you will endup looking for another car. The tc3 gets boring to work on. Alot of the setup require you to buy new parts. Then you had to keep spare of all the different setups. It just got to be a pain to keep track of everything.

I just picked up an evo2 from zombie. and am still eagerly awaiting it's delivery, but from what I have been able to read and ask other about. This car has everything.

also as a newbie. support at your local track and lhs is a must. so look to see what everyone else drives.

just my $.02

Carbon_Fibre3

Hello X Ray dudes, After having my diff overtightened, i have replaced the rings, the balls with new carbide ones, and still the diff remians feeling like it has flat spots..

So my question is.. could this be the thrust bearing balls that have the flats? thanks

Rob Storey