NovakTwo

Here is the info on "bug fixes" that I mentioned above:

Firmware Update Download

NovaLink Update Download

Our information clearly states that the NovaLink is compatible (only) with Windows® XP™ and Vista™ computer-operating platforms. We are investigating other platforms, but at this time we are unable to help, or troubleshoot, any other systems.

rcannon409

iTrader: (2)

I dont believe anyone has attacked, and so far you guys have done an incredible job. Yes, there have been small issues, but the fix has happened within 24 hours or so.....no big deal at all.

When I bought this, I know I could have selected other brands with software further developed, but I've always liked Novak.

The minor issues I've had, and the speed in which your company acted to solve them, makes me believe in you more.

Now, I suppose there is no need to download the new Novalink full 1.3 if the older link has been updated with the new firmware, right?

xtraman122

iTrader: (42)

The full just means it has the app and the drivers, there is a new application version (1.3) and new firmware (1.3). To use the new version of the app your speedo needs to have v1.3 firmware on it.

Marman

iTrader: (10)

Just got my novalink yesterday and had a very frustrating night trying to install it so thought I would share my findings in case anyone else is going through the same problem. Most of this is in the last few pages but thought it might be helpful to have it in one post.

When trying to update the firmware the instructions aren't all that clear so after going through the last few pages and piecing together the responses I got the following. When you are prompted to turn on the controller it actually means connect the controller to the Novalink. You don't need to have a battery connected and the switch doesn't need to be turned on. If it doesn't start updating in the first few seconds unplug the controller from the Novalink and then try again. Took me 10 tries to get it to connect and update the firmware the first time. On the second update attempt just to be sure it had worked took 4 tries to connect.

Once I had the firmware updated tried to recalibrate my radio and all appeared to work okay button wise except the solid red for neutral. It just kept flashing a variety of light combinations. Finally realised after a few attempts that these looked like the light combinations for button programming. Then tried turning on without calibrating and red light came on solid as though the switch was depressed though I wasn't holding it down. Suspected a faulty switch so removed the switch and bridged the positive and negative switch pins at the controller and plugged the battery in. This time it started up normally and I had throttle response. So seems after 1 practice day of use the switch has failed just have to try to find a replacement switch now to confirm that this is all that is wrong.

xtraman122

iTrader: (42)

I had similar issues with the firmware updater, where it just closes once it's connected, no idea what causes it, and I'm not sure if it's one of my speedos or if they've both done it.

jsamarin

iTrader: (7)

so ive got a novak kinetic and a ballistic 550 4.5 motor, and there both brand new. when you give it hard throttle, it will turn inself off, but the radio and servo still works. it will turn its self on right away afterward too.

sometimes it wont turn back on and if you give the vehicle a little push it will turn back on again.

i talked to the novak tech support guy and he has never herd of this so have any of you guys herd of this, or have any idea on what it could be. ive tryed different batterys, different servo and different radio and it still does the same thing.

im not to happy about this because i spent close to 400 bucks for this system. any help would be great

macdude

iTrader: (6)

Check the lipo cutoff voltage. If you have a novalink or someone that has one. I notice that the default when I first connected the controller to the computer said 3.9V which way too high and this could be causing it to turn off.

xtraman122

iTrader: (42)

But that's per cell, not for the whole pack, I believe that's how it works anyways, I have mine set at 6.4 (3.2/cell). I know I felt my car slow way down last week during a long practice run so I figured I hit my cutoff and threw the battery on the charger to find out my 2S pack was at a low 5.4v. I plugged into the NovaLink and realized I had forgotten to set the cutoff since the new firmware or something and it was still at the factory value of 3.x.

macdude

iTrader: (6)

I wonder if it wasn't working at all then. Maybe that's why when I plugged mine in the value was so high. I will have to play with it with the new firmware and see if it actually works. Easiest way to test it is with an old NiMH pack, the lights will let you know if it goes to lipo cutoff.

rcannon409

iTrader: (2)

I installed both of the 1.3 versions and it did not work. I removed them and dropped back to 1.1 and will stay there until things get figured out!

xtraman122

iTrader: (42)

Just set it at something like 8.2 and run it for a few minutes and it should drop to that pretty quick and limit you then, just so you don't run a whole pack to find out.

skypilot

iTrader: (14)

so how do i get 1.3 IN the speedo


yep me too. we should soon have an answer

pmes

iTrader: (3)

I got the 1.3 update to apply. I left the ESC plugged in, started NovaLink, unplugged the ESC and plugged it back in, got the you don't have 1.3 error, clicked ok, started the firmware update, unplugged the ESC and plugged it back in right away when it asked. Try a combination of that if it doesn't work, I had to restart windows after the update. This isn't easy to do, but it will work if you keep trying.

If it's the middle of the night and you can't sleep because your wife is about to have a baby, you will get it to work.

xtraman122

iTrader: (42)

With the new 1.3 software, it'll only let you update the firmware if you have 1.1/1.0.

I noticed I had to widen my dead band with 1.3, I had it at 2 previously, and it wouldn't recognize neutral correctly, it kept trying to start the motor, and what's even more strange is one of my speedos is happy at 3, but with the other I needed to go up to 3.5 for it to always actually return to neutral when my radio did. But for anyone using a bigger dead band than that you should be fine.

I think the strangest thing to me and my biggest gripe is how you lose all of your settings every time you go to calibrate your radio. I never understood why calibrating high/low/neutral should reset drag brake, timing, dead band, etc.

rcannon409

iTrader: (2)

Looks like I'll be taking advantage of Novaks warranty policy. LOTS of smoke, a dead esc and link......Not good.

No idea what happened, but whatever it was probably did not go as designed.