1568LikesPro 10: 235mm Le Mans Prototype Pan Car Discussion
08-25-2013, 01:32 AM
#1262
Tech Regular
Might that be a Porsche?
Thought those were not permitted at Dutch Nationals.......
But hey, maybe I'm way off track here.......
Please enlighten me...
08-25-2013, 01:47 AM
#1263
This is the Sauber Mercedes from MIX.
This one is permitted.
For next year there will probebly be a body list.
This one is permitted.
For next year there will probebly be a body list.
08-25-2013, 06:26 PM
#1264
If anyone is looking for a 235mm car. I have a brand new one here 
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...onversion.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...onversion.html
08-26-2013, 02:12 AM
#1265
Tech Regular
1.
Sorry, my bad.
Thought saddle packs would fit into this car. Not gonna happen because of the side links and the positioning of the centre shock.
Sorry, my bad.
Thought saddle packs would fit into this car. Not gonna happen because of the side links and the positioning of the centre shock.
Last edited by Kensei; 08-26-2013 at 03:22 AM.
08-26-2013, 05:45 PM
#1267
Tech Initiate
Does anyone make a 235 mm pan car in kit form? Or do you just have to buy a conversion kit?
08-26-2013, 10:02 PM
#1268
Corally has the 10SL in 235mm kit.
Very good car.
Very good car.
08-27-2013, 12:39 AM
#1270
Some pictures from Roman (RKtrouble on here?) of the German Masters pro10 https://www.facebook.com/krejcirom/m...7006076&type=3
I think you need to be a member to see them.
I think you need to be a member to see them.
08-27-2013, 04:26 AM
#1271
08-27-2013, 06:44 AM
#1272
Thanks for sharing!
Good videos.
Good videos.
08-29-2013, 08:33 AM
#1273
09-04-2013, 08:12 AM
#1274
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
nob question about t-bar
hi!
I have 10L2 car, it is t-bar with disk dumper (side dump like 12L4 or something around).
t-bar has also two screws to set tweak.
My question is about that screws in slippy conditions.
Last time rain destroy our track and grip, but then come some sun and track dry, but lost grip. All was sliding around ...
One man suggest me remove that screws from t-bar but I felt at 2nd run that car was more unstable then previous. He said that is always better remove that screws when grip is very low ...
My experience is with screws I was able to drive without them = no drive.
What I should think?
I remember that from 12L4 time, with screws for me was always better ...
rear end doesnt want drive 1st
For me there is only last race on asphalt this year so maybe then weather will be much better ...
Regards!
m.
ps: I think also link based cars are much better on asphalt (my 200mm does very well in any conditions) but I have 10L2 pro10 old school and want it drive ...
I have 10L2 car, it is t-bar with disk dumper (side dump like 12L4 or something around).
t-bar has also two screws to set tweak.
My question is about that screws in slippy conditions.
Last time rain destroy our track and grip, but then come some sun and track dry, but lost grip. All was sliding around ...
One man suggest me remove that screws from t-bar but I felt at 2nd run that car was more unstable then previous. He said that is always better remove that screws when grip is very low ...
My experience is with screws I was able to drive without them = no drive.
What I should think?
I remember that from 12L4 time, with screws for me was always better ...
rear end doesnt want drive 1st
For me there is only last race on asphalt this year so maybe then weather will be much better ...
Regards!
m.
ps: I think also link based cars are much better on asphalt (my 200mm does very well in any conditions) but I have 10L2 pro10 old school
and want it drive ...
09-04-2013, 08:31 AM
#1275
hi!
I have 10L2 car, it is t-bar with disk dumper (side dump like 12L4 or something around).
t-bar has also two screws to set tweak.
My question is about that screws in slippy conditions.
Last time rain destroy our track and grip, but then come some sun and track dry, but lost grip. All was sliding around ...
One man suggest me remove that screws from t-bar but I felt at 2nd run that car was more unstable then previous. He said that is always better remove that screws when grip is very low ...
My experience is with screws I was able to drive without them = no drive.
What I should think?
I remember that from 12L4 time, with screws for me was always better ...
rear end doesnt want drive 1st
I have 10L2 car, it is t-bar with disk dumper (side dump like 12L4 or something around).
t-bar has also two screws to set tweak.
My question is about that screws in slippy conditions.
Last time rain destroy our track and grip, but then come some sun and track dry, but lost grip. All was sliding around ...
One man suggest me remove that screws from t-bar but I felt at 2nd run that car was more unstable then previous. He said that is always better remove that screws when grip is very low ...
My experience is with screws I was able to drive without them = no drive.
What I should think?
I remember that from 12L4 time, with screws for me was always better ...
rear end doesnt want drive 1st
You may find it necessary to add weight to the left side of the rear pod to get it to balance from side to side when running without the tweak screws.
Your results may vary!