vernon7026

Thank you so much fellas

I have ordered new arms and new steering

I will have to order the bits to lower rear axle(i do have the carbon
Parts for the front axle)

Once I have rebuilt car I will make all the adjustments including tweak

And play around with the diff

But too be honest the small chance I had with it, I really enjoyed it

Ps I will look at yr site and possibly order month end

RC_LMP1

Hello vernon and everybody.
Maybe I can help you. I run in Italy with my CRC 235 mm. Personally and for my experience I can tell you this:
1- front camber from 1° to 3° depends on track, if you se that tyres makes it self conic than reduce cmbr. More angle you can add and better is the andle.
2- caster: set at maximum of static angle, and set dynamic caster to 0 ( when you compress the suspension caster should not change ).
3- front toe: if you look at the tyres they must be opened to the front of the car, set from 2.5° to 3.5°.
4- tyres: I use the UFRA tyres, 30/34 sh rear and 37/40 sh front. You must treat them with an additive. If the additive is like honey or viscous it's nit good for foam, use something liquid. I use the speedtech.
5- height: 4.5mm front and 5.5mm rear.
6- diff: adjust it in way that non slip, but feels freely. Use ceramic balls, don't loose time.
7- spring: to the front use hard springs, in way that the car feels precise in corner entry and stable at the exit, if the car feels ustable and too quick in corner entry go to a softer spring. Adjust the steering radius from radio, the more stiff is front spring that you can put and better id. For side springs is the opposite, softer = better.
8- shock: oil and spring dependes on track. Begin with standard spring and 350 cst oil. Go to harder oil and spring to gain in responsiveness.

The body is the key for grip. I run with a BLITZ P908 which seems to 1/8 track bodies. It gives a lot of traction, and makes me run with a 4.0T star, go to 108km/h in 40m of straight line and maje times only 0.3s slower than 1/8 track.

235mm pan car requires a precise finger, but gives you satisfaction! And is very economical. I spend money only for tyres, additive and diff balls.

Drive fast! (In track ovviously )

G-rem

iTrader: (2)

Hi RC LMP1 and thank you for sharing your experience and set-up!

I am new to pro ten 235mm (which I loooove so much more than touring car) but a question came in my mind when reading your post: how do you manage to run such a powerful motor without any motor temperature issues? Any advice and/or fan set-up to share?

I ran last time with my Associated 10r5.1 tentatively converted to 235mm with CRC hub and custom wider front plate waiting for my TRR Racestuff conversion parts, with a 9.5t motor boosted and PF 905b on a big outdoor 1:8 IC track and I get some temp cut-off due to the motor while it was not so hot outside...

Regards,
G-rem

Joost K.

When you are driving a Pro10 car you need to change your lines a bit comparing to touring car.
When you drive the lines a bit wider you can let the car roll more through the corners, get more cornerspeed and use less amps turn out.
Less ampdraw means less motor temperature...

RC_LMP1

Hi G-rem,

The fact is paradoxical, because I burned an 8.5T speed passion V4 motor, and with my 4.0T MMM I am under 60°C and 15kph faster! Both motor and ESC wich is a HW V3.1 120A. So I'll try to explain: with the 4.0 I ran with 0° of boost timing and 12° of turbo because the power is so much that you don't need to give timing at the motor. Moreover with a low wind motor you have a lot of KV available so I run at 35mm of FDR. If you install a stock motor or a 9.5T like you it will need three things to push the car fast: more timing more FDR more endbell timing. So the combination of theese means higher temperatures.
Trust me, a PRO10 wants to run with low wind motors (4.0 or 4.5 star or 7 delta) this way you can go faster easier, above all with a high downforce body like the BLITZ (not the protoform with is good as aero resistence but not as aero pushing).

RC_LMP1

G-Rem

If you search on youtube there are a few videos of the "DM PRO10" wich is a German trophy of 235mm pan car. Everyone runs with low wind motors.
Moreover if you look the videos of Roger Neubauer you can learn a lot of tricks about these cars.

P.s.
I agree at 200% with you. Pan Car is better than touring under every point of view: more fast more funny more economical more easy to set ecc..

Soon I will post images of my car in way that you and others can see the modifications that I've done to the chassis

G-rem

iTrader: (2)

Nice, thank you very much for all the informations!

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

Come to the Benelux race at Rucphen on 18 an 19 July and you can see the Pro10 10.5 boosted class and the Pro10 mod class running. If you go a week before tha, there will be a race of the Rc-lemans series with just Pro10 cars at the same track. This sunday there is a Rc-lemans race at the race track in Genk.

Regards Roy

RC_LMP1

Fantastic! Can you post some videos of the event? You know, for me is a little bit complicated to come because I'm from Pavia (Italy, near Milano).

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

One of your fellow country man has already signed in.

Regards Roy

vernon7026

Thanx for all the tips just have to fit a fan to my motor to keep temps down ! Need to buy various front springs

Should I lower my turbo timing etc etc in the esc ? Esc is HW 90a

vernon7026

Sorry to bother you all

How do I work out FDR ?

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

@Vernon....... What ESC are you using?
This because of settings and what motor?
FDR you don't use on a pan car but it is a rollout.
Due to tire wear you need to adapt your rollout when your tires wear off(rear tire)
formula for rollout is: tirediameter x 3.1416 / spur teeth x pinion teeth
Lets say 60mm tires x 3.1416 / 81 teeth spur x 16 teeth pinion = 37.223 rollout
If tire wears 2 mm it is 58 x 3.1416 / 81 x 16 = 36mm rollout
You should change pinion if tires wear a lot or run every heat the same diameter tires so you won't need to adapt.
I Always bring 10 sets front and rear with me so i don't need to change rollout or height when i got the right settings.
I only use 1 set of tires once a day.

Regards Roy

vernon7026

Much appreciated Roy

Will order some more tyres

Will order contact tyres

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

I use BSR tires and love them.
Good price and already trued to 60mm so race ready.


Regards Roy