Kensei

How to mount the centre shock when not using the topdeck of the Corally 10 SL Link?
I mean I want to use saddlepacks. 2 1S cells glued together with doublesided and then taped on the chassisplate or two 1S cells seperately mounted on the chassis.

Either way: there is no support for the centreshock on the chassis. How to do that?
When the 2 1S cells are glued together the centreshock has to be longer because it has to reach over the 2 1S cells and there has to be a strut in front of the saddlepack to support the centreshock on the chassisplate.
When the 2 1S cells are seperate the length of the shock might be good but again there is no strut for the shock on the chassis. In this configuration the centreshock is kind of in between the two 1S Lipo cells.

So how to go about as to this problom?

Kensei

Is the weight of this car a problem?
It weighs 1.285 grams raceready.
The rules state that a cars minimum weight is 1.200 grams. So the car is 85 grams too heavy.
There are already clubs that have 1.100 grams as minimum weight. Than that car would be 185 grams too heavy.

The car is awesome. But can all of that add up against the extra weight it carries. IMHO I think not.

Kensei

Mailed them a few times.
No reply whatsoever.
Not very customerfriendly.
So this company is not an option I think.

Kensei

How many turns motor can it take?
Is this speedo kinda like the SpeedPassion, but B-label?
Where best to buy it? HongKong?

2wdrive

2 times 1s lipo is difficult. You can put in a 2s saddlepack but not sure if two 1s 1/12 lipo's will fit without drilling a hole. I do see another screw hole a little further forwards in the middle of the chassis. So maybe that is something you could use to fix a shock post..

Here is a picture from the car of mathijs (pro10holland) with his solution for fitting a 2s saddlepack. (hope you don't mind mathijs )

2wdrive

weight is not really a problem. Our nationals weight limit is 1200 grams. My car weighs 1230 grams and other cars are similar weight. The weight limit of the pro10 class at my club is 1100grams.

I, and other drivers that run in the nationals run with 1230 grams in our club pro10 class. There is no difference in speed or handling in the corners between the 1100 gram cars or 1200 gram cars. At least i really don't see it when driving my car.

2wdrive

it can take any modified motor you want. I have seen people running 6t delta winds with it without any problems.

Hobbywing is the manufacturer of the speedpassion esc so i gues the 120A v2.1 is more of an A label then speedpassion is.

The Hobbywing 120A v2.1 is a good esc. You can buy it with confidence.... i use the 120A v2.1 myself.

This is my car with the hobbywing 120A v2.1 installed

Kensei

Interesting. But these aren't regular parts I think.
So they have to be custom made?
That is as to the shock post and the length of the shock.
Not something I could do myself. So there's another problem.

Lots of pancars nowadays use 2S stick LiPo in the middle of the car, lengthwise.
There is some discussion now and again about what is the best way to go. 2S stickpack or 2x1S saddlepack right in front of the rear axle. What would be your opinion on this?
Some say pancars handle better with saddlepacks, especially with cornerentry. Because with pancars it's all about weight on the rear axle some say. I doubt if that is true. A lot of pancar manufacturers would have made the wrong decision then in constructing there car.
Read a review on the XRay X10 Link the other day. These two people stated the exact opposite. 2S Stickpack Lipo would be much better, so they stated. The car would handle much better in left-right-sweepers, better weightbalance.
Another thing that is said is, that indoor on carpet 2S stickpack is better and outdoor on asphalt/tarmac with low to medium grip saddlepack right in front of the rear axle would be better.
I am kind of lost here. Any suggestions from anyone......?

2wdrive

indeed it is custom made part for his car but you can put a standoff there with a ballstud ontop to fix the shock or something DIY. It is a pancar so DIY is not so difficult. You can go into a hardware or electric store and buy something to put there with a 3mm thread to screw it on your chassis. Not so difficult i think. Same with extending your shock shaft.

http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/442...5mm-24398.html

2wdrive

stickpack is easier to get then saddlepacks. There are more stickpacks as well so plenty of choice. Some say that stickpacks are better as you have less cells then the saddlepacks.

For indoor applications i would go for stickpack as weight on the back is not important and weight on the centerline is important for less side to side weight transfer in corners. There is traction enough on carpet.

For outdoor I have seen all kinds of configurations win. Stickpack down the middle, sticpack on one side and electronics on the other, saddlepacks at the back or a stickpack at the back (croswise). Not sure what is better outdoors. Theory would suggest that more weight at the back would give you more traction when accelerating out of the turn. The theory also says you will get more steering entering the turn and in the middle of the turn as weight will go forwards.

I drove my 200mm BMI DB10RR once on an outdoor track with 2s saddlepacks side by side in the middle and the electronics at the back (the BMI way). After i got my setup right i had no problems hanging with the wide cars and i was using a sophia body.

I think there is not a one best solutions and you always end up with a compromise in outdoor applications. It is still up to the driver how he set up his car and his driving style.

The manufacturers are designing there new 200mm cars based on more or less carpet setup for world gt. With stickpacks you also don't need a wide chassis and can make it narrower.

LOW ET

iTrader: (109)

i just won this rc10l2 on ebay, what are the suggested upgrades to to make it pro10 worthy?

tallyrc

iTrader: (12)

2wdrive, is that a prc max10? That's what I own.. too bad prc is no longer in the RC business.

tallyrc

iTrader: (12)

I asked in another thread, does anybody have a setup for 10.5 with novak kinetic in a pro10.

2wdrive

No it is a L2 with a PRC rear top podplate with BMI dampertubes and some bling blue aluminium parts.

2wdrive

The rc10l2 is a pro10 so you don't need anything to make it into a pro10.

First get some servo posts . I bought aftermarket aluminium posts from Liquid rc.

Buy the original large Kimbrough servo saver as well. The one in the picture is not the original kimbrough saver that is included in the kit. Just rebuild it like the manual and it should be ok.
Remove the nerfbars. Get some carbon or frp ride hight shims for the front if it isn't included. It is very handy.

Some might disagree but i would get a TRF shock or something similar. It works better then the old asso shock imo. Put some teflon tape on the topplate where the friction disks are. That is pretty much it. You can drive it the way it is.

If you want some more setup possibilities you can make a rc10l2.5 later. When the axle breaks you can look for the IRS axle and hubs. They last a long time.