1568LikesPro 10: 235mm Le Mans Prototype Pan Car Discussion
10-21-2011, 04:30 PM
#361
I was watching that car on ebay also. Looks like you got it for a good price. My understanding is that the 10l2 is a 235mm car already and won't need anything to run in the class. That said if you're familiar with pan cars you'll probably already know to check that nothing is bent or tweaked and everything moves freely. Not sure you'll need too many upgrades really. A new body and tyres, some spares if you can find them and you're away.
10-21-2011, 04:41 PM
#362
If you use a motor that isn't a LRP x12 you can use the following setup as a base. It is with a hobbywing esc but i used to have roughly the same settings with a tekin esc. Just measure temps every 2 minutes
6000 start rpm
end rpm 20.000
40-45boost
10 turbo
rollout on a 1/8 track roughly 40mm.
It should go quite fast with normal operating temperatures (50-65 C) in 7 minutes race. Suit to your liking.
On a small electric track i used:
40-50 boost with 36mm rollout. No turbo
10-21-2011, 04:50 PM
#363
I was watching that car on ebay also. Looks like you got it for a good price. My understanding is that the 10l2 is a 235mm car already and won't need anything to run in the class. That said if you're familiar with pan cars you'll probably already know to check that nothing is bent or tweaked and everything moves freely. Not sure you'll need too many upgrades really. A new body and tyres, some spares if you can find them and you're away.
10-21-2011, 07:34 PM
#364
i know i need the basics. once i get the car i will look it over and replace anything that needs it. i was looking for info on things like, do i need to upgrade the center shock and to which one? do i need to upgrade the rear pod side plates and to which ones? what about the top plate of the rear pod, does it need upgraded or will that style of damper be ok? from what i've read in this thread, pink fronts and purple rears will be a good starting point for tires on asphalt? what spring setup should be a good starting point on the car?
10-22-2011, 01:33 PM
#368
Be carefull with BRS tires. The pinks from BSR are softer then the pink from Jaco. When using BSR go for the double pink. The same for the purple. BSR double purple is roughly the same as purple from jaco. You can read it on BSR's website.
10-23-2011, 05:42 AM
#370
The teflontape is a teflon coated tape. Not to seal threads with but the ones that are teflon on one side and glue/sticky part on the other. Similar with doublesided tape but on one side there is teflon. It is quite expensive, you have to buy a roll and you only use a small piece. It is used in industrial applications.
I placed an add on a local RC forum and I got some small pieces from someone that worked in a company that makes furniture.
10-23-2011, 10:49 AM
#372
Here is a step by step explanation for the teflon tape.
http://markpayneblog.blogspot.com/se...0Plate%20Trick
Indeed, you should use a touringcar shock. The L2 came with an associated B4 buggy front shock. The springs work on a Tamiya TRF shock as well. I bought the associated oval/onroad spring kit which include the B4 front buggy spring; black, green and silver spring. Those are the only three springs you need.
http://markpayneblog.blogspot.com/se...0Plate%20Trick
Indeed, you should use a touringcar shock. The L2 came with an associated B4 buggy front shock. The springs work on a Tamiya TRF shock as well. I bought the associated oval/onroad spring kit which include the B4 front buggy spring; black, green and silver spring. Those are the only three springs you need.
Last edited by 2wdrive; 10-23-2011 at 11:11 AM.
10-24-2011, 01:05 AM
#373
Tech Regular
Shock assembly
2 times 1s lipo is difficult. You can put in a 2s saddlepack but not sure if two 1s 1/12 lipo's will fit without drilling a hole. I do see another screw hole a little further forwards in the middle of the chassis. So maybe that is something you could use to fix a shock post..
Here is a picture from the car of mathijs (pro10holland) with his solution for fitting a 2s saddlepack. (hope you don't mind mathijs
)
Here is a picture from the car of mathijs (pro10holland) with his solution for fitting a 2s saddlepack. (hope you don't mind mathijs
)As to the shock:
- at the ball end side there is some sort of lengthening device used?
- on the other side of the spring collar there is a red tubing of some sort. What might that be? It looks as if the inward movement of the shock is limited by mounting some kind of tubing (the red one I mean).
What is the thought behind this? To avoid too much inward shock movement? To avoid the threaded side of the pivot ball on the damper plate touching the lipo? To avoid the chassisplate scraping the track when inward shock movement takes place? Is it some kind of downstop fixation?
And what is the red tube made of? Is it plastic or metal? Is it threaded?
- the spring collar doesn't look as if it's from Corally?
Last edited by Kensei; 10-24-2011 at 01:33 AM.
10-24-2011, 04:19 AM
#374
This is a nitro tube, thats placed over the shock piston.
This is used to stop the chassis from touching the ground under downforce.
So that the chassis is not damaged, on high speed tracks.
We usually make the tube so long that we have 2mm of ground clearance, when the chassis is pressed down.
Indeed a downstop.
This is used to stop the chassis from touching the ground under downforce.
So that the chassis is not damaged, on high speed tracks.
We usually make the tube so long that we have 2mm of ground clearance, when the chassis is pressed down.
Indeed a downstop.
10-24-2011, 08:59 PM
#375
Thanks for the pic.
As to the shock:
- at the ball end side there is some sort of lengthening device used?
- on the other side of the spring collar there is a red tubing of some sort. What might that be? It looks as if the inward movement of the shock is limited by mounting some kind of tubing (the red one I mean).
What is the thought behind this? To avoid too much inward shock movement? To avoid the threaded side of the pivot ball on the damper plate touching the lipo? To avoid the chassisplate scraping the track when inward shock movement takes place? Is it some kind of downstop fixation?
And what is the red tube made of? Is it plastic or metal? Is it threaded?
- the spring collar doesn't look as if it's from Corally?
As to the shock:
- at the ball end side there is some sort of lengthening device used?
- on the other side of the spring collar there is a red tubing of some sort. What might that be? It looks as if the inward movement of the shock is limited by mounting some kind of tubing (the red one I mean).
What is the thought behind this? To avoid too much inward shock movement? To avoid the threaded side of the pivot ball on the damper plate touching the lipo? To avoid the chassisplate scraping the track when inward shock movement takes place? Is it some kind of downstop fixation?
And what is the red tube made of? Is it plastic or metal? Is it threaded?
- the spring collar doesn't look as if it's from Corally?
Also RPM used to offer clip on shock limiters, they along with an o-ring pre-installed on the shock shaft will work too. The clips come in various lengths and as such you will not need to disassemble your shock should you need to limit your travel.