aaron_buran

Here is my XL setup from the Halloween Classic:

.50 fronts
10 degree blocks
20,000wt lube on the kingpins
no upper brace long arm
all shims back (max caster)
.5 degrees camber
servo up
CRC Magenta Front 1.60 Glued
Red Center spring
White Sides set "dead"
30wt oil in shock
10,000wt in one tube, 20,000wt in the other
CRC Hard Pink Rear 1.65
Batteries Forward
Ride Height 3.5mm in front and rear
1.5mm of pod drop
black art body
Advanced Speedo Control in rnds 3 & 4 and Main

Car was good despite the bumpy conditions, Q - 2nd, finished 1st

CarbonJoe

Why would you have different tube lube from one side to the other? Which tube was the heavier one?

KHoff7

iTrader: (5)

I would imaging to split the weight to 15000. It would not matter which tube due to the fact that they both move regardless of which way the pod tweaks around.

aaron_buran

The sides don't matter on the damper tubes, I wanted to achieve 15k (of which I didn't have), and I had 20 in them already, so I just changed 1 tube to 10k.

darcydawg

iTrader: (2)

If the CRC lubes are 1000wt, 3000wt, and 10000wt (red, white, & blue caps), what are people using for 20000wt or 15000wt?

Thanks,
Carter

KHoff7

iTrader: (5)

I use diff oils from 8th scale offroad cars.

CarbonJoe

Most likely the OFNA diff lubes, since they seem to be readily available at most hobby shops that carry off-road buggies. Big bottles, and relatively cheap as well.

R.Dalnogare

iTrader: (9)

Has anyone had ackermen problems. I'm using the kimbrough servo saver with a futaba 9650. The problem is when I turn right for instance, the inside wheel (right wheel) will be at its max angle, but the outside wheel (left wheel) will not be at its max angle, it has only rotated about 3/4 of its possible travel so its still pretty straight, and vise versa for turning left. I have tried all different servo positions, the old graphite knuckle pieces from the old car, spacers, ect and nothing works.

Ron Goetter

iTrader: (17)

Ryan my car is the same way and it work great. I think you are worried about stuff that doesn't really matter. I know I had my car maxed out and when I put it on the track it wanted to spin out so I ended up cutting my steering throw almost in half. I would try the car first and if it doesn't work good then worry about that stuff.

march to my own

That is how the car should be. You should not be running that much steering anyway. 4 foot circles is pretty standard.

aaron_buran

I use Kyosho silicone diff oil in my tubes

I prefer the graphite horns on the sterring blocks over the plastic ones that come with the new XL, I think the steering geometry is better for me. However I do know that all the guys in vegas including Hupo ran the new plastic ones.

I agree 4 ft circle is a good place to start, at club races it's a bit smaller, and at big races, the circle gets bigger, due to the amount of grip.

If your car still pushes with a circle of 3.5 feet, you need to change the chassis and tire choice to generate more steering.

sg1

iTrader: (79)

Aaron,
You have a PM.
-Wayne

Ffejdat

iTrader: (5)

I have noticed on a lot of Gen-X setups posted latlely that people are running very little front camber, like .5 degrees, versus 1.5 degrees for many other cars, why is this, or what does it do for your set up or handleing, thanks!!

CypressMidWest

iTrader: (1)

More camber will usually increase steering mid-corner. For instance, on the rare occasions I run long-arm, I run between 1 and 2 degrees camber because the car has less camber gain, and therfore less mid-corner steering. I usually run short-arm, and run between .5 and 1 degree, because short-arm naturally has more camber gain, and therefore more mid-corner steering. Hope this helps.

al dente

Ian...How much camber do you run on your luggage cart?

Looking forward to gridding up with you in cleveland. I am glad we are both running stock...this way the only way you can ruin my race is to hack me.