Rufus2000

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the advise ventura! that will prove very useful
I have a reedy 19t on hand, but I may go with the brushless equivalent.
Still looking for a good 10.5 that would be compatible with my mamba max. anyone running one of these?

VenturaDC

iTrader: (32)

No problem glad i can help.

Just remember that gearing the 10.5 is going to be a different animal then the 19t brushed and will be dependent on esc and motor choice. I used to run sensored brushless motors with a mamba and had nothing but cogging issue's, that was quite some time ago and ive heard that is has since gotten better so i guess as long as your running the newest software it should work ok, the motor that worked the best for me at the time was the original trinity duo.

PaPeRo

Has anyone put silicone/rubber o-rings inside the drive cups to help prevent the dog bones from moving around too much? Also I'm getting some minor rubbing of the servo steering tie rod against the prop shaft when turning right. Are you guys having the same problems? I might have to move the ball down to the 2nd hole on the servo horn.

marvin2.5s

Thats a common problem on the JL10's i have rubber o rings on the inside of the drive cups too except for one drive cup because it doesnt need it. On the rubbing issue i have mine also on the second hole on the servo horn, for that issue. Other than that you shouldnt have any issues really. maybe check the A arms the see if they free too.

PaPeRo

Cool thanks, was wondering if it was just mine or a common/known issue.

Rufus2000

iTrader: (1)

no o-ring needed, just use a little piece of sponge.
the right size does wonders to keep the dogbones in place. used to do that on my hpi sprint

PaPeRo

Been testing the chassis with a 9T eZRun motor and I like it a lot. Very good handling. Next step is to paint/mount the body and take a couple more pics.

marvin2.5s

Oh one thing I will say that I forgot to mention. If you crash, your car will get tweaked, turst me it happened to me after a few rol overs on some dots. What I did is tkae off the upper chassis brace and twist the chassis abit and have someone push the car down on its shocks, then tighten the bolts in an X pattern then your car will be good.

winnppl

iTrader: (3)

My jl10e with the so-cal TRUSPEC series set up

I just finnished everything tonight

and jeffrey lin tech'd it out for me yesterday at TQ racing

im verrrrry exsited to run it!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VMbKwypUyls

PaPeRo

Hi I like that purple color, very pretty, what paint did you use?

Anyway on your rolling chassis it appears you have the left rear tire backwards.

I like that little battery you have on your running chassis haha.

Also just some friendly advice, could you re-edit your post and stack the pictures top/bottom instead of side by side? This way it doesn't mess the formatting of the forum thread view.


Ok now for something different. Anybody want to guess what's wrong with this picture?

Rufus2000

iTrader: (1)

very nice...
are those stock rims with 0mm offset?
I'm wondering how would hpi 3mm ofset rims would fit in 200mm bodies... as some models hpi has do not come in 0mm offset versions...


I was planning on using this one:

http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/7421/

but those wheels are 3mm offset

winnppl

iTrader: (3)

yea i know about the rear wheel backwards thats my little bros jl10e thats why and sorry about the pics i fixed them ")

PaPeRo

No problem and thanks for fixing the pics...anyway you didn't mention what paint color you used.

I'm in the process of painting a body for my JL10e using purple and yellow and was wondering which color you used.

winnppl

iTrader: (3)

its Candy Purple from Pactra

PaPeRo

Cool thanks that purple is very nice looking. For mine I went with Tamiya PS-10 purple which isn't as nice looking as candy purple but it matches the camel yellow PS-19.