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Old 01-25-2011, 06:56 PM   #931
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Default Tamiya wheels

Will Tamiya front wheels fit on the optional foam knuckles/ axles? Same question for the Tamiya rear wheels on the optional rear axle.
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Old 01-25-2011, 11:10 PM   #932
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Originally Posted by dimka_ff View Post
we are just finished new steel rear axle for F10 foam set.
It's heavier than stock aluminium, but much more stronger, and also it's 15mm longer than stock, so I can use axle spacers and use f104 rear wheels. next step will be carbon fiber axle, i think

Hi looks nice! If you want to try a carbon fiber axle then use 1/10th cf axle (AE, CRC etc). You will just need to cut off a few mm of cf from the threaded end of the shaft so that the threaded part is longer.

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Will Tamiya front wheels fit on the optional foam knuckles/ axles? Same question for the Tamiya rear wheels on the optional rear axle.
Only F103 front or rear rims. Not F104. F103 works better anyway.
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Old 01-26-2011, 09:07 AM   #933
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Ok guys just one word… HELP!!!!!

Just picked up the HPI F Ten, basically stock except for the rear hubs which are that nice shade of orange, which looks great against the black chassis. I have on order the yeah racing motor mount and steering arm and post. Everything is pretty much stock including the tires.

So my question-s are, is there any suggestions on setup, track is low grip asphalt, bumpy in spots. Everything I have read here states the HPI tires are not good at all. Since I work on printer I have this stuff we use on the rollers, it cleans and keeps the rubber soft. Works like the Paragon FXII. If they still don’t grip then I will just toss a set of my touring tires on them, heck I think those tire from my Vintage Trans-am class would look pretty good on there. Any suggestions on that rear diff, it seems pretty tight.

Thanks in advance!!!!
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Old 01-26-2011, 12:20 PM   #934
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Question: What is the easiest & cheapest way to run Tamiya F1 foams on the HPI F10. Do the F104 foams bolt straight on, or do I need a different axles?
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Old 01-26-2011, 02:55 PM   #935
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Originally Posted by MikeR View Post
Only F103 front or rear rims. Not F104. F103 works better anyway.
Thanks Mike!

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Question: What is the easiest & cheapest way to run Tamiya F1 foams on the HPI F10. Do the F104 foams bolt straight on, or do I need a different axles?
I already asked for ya!
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Old 01-26-2011, 03:35 PM   #936
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I'll be trading away my F10 in a week or so, thought you guys might like these photos. Super F1 v. F10.



















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Old 01-26-2011, 04:13 PM   #937
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I'll be trading away my F10 in a week or so, thought you guys might like these photos. Super F1 v. F10.


Nice!
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Old 01-26-2011, 04:16 PM   #938
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Nice!
The cars are awesome, thanks again. I've got two of them fully built, about to go run the one set up for 200mm bodies now.
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Old 01-26-2011, 04:28 PM   #939
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Default formula 10 for sale

I've got a hardly run formula 10 with the Exotek and Yeah Racing conversions on it for sale if anybody is interested. The whole car is pristine. It comes with new foamies and new rubbers, all with 0 laps. PM if you are interested and would like more details.
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Old 01-26-2011, 06:27 PM   #940
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Default Bad Choice?

Hmmm maybe i made a bad choice with this F10 then. people are either selling or talking about the F103 or 104.
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Old 01-27-2011, 02:28 AM   #941
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Hmmm maybe i made a bad choice with this F10 then. people are either selling or talking about the F103 or 104.
Well I had oportunity to run box stock F10 and it was really terrible. From what I've seen quite a lot of tuning parts are required. When it came to buying car for myself, I went for 3Racing F109. I belive it's best choice when it comes to performance/value. Of course if you've got Tamiya series around where are only their cars allowed, I would look into their cars of course.
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Old 01-27-2011, 02:12 PM   #942
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Well I had oportunity to run box stock F10 and it was really terrible. From what I've seen quite a lot of tuning parts are required. When it came to buying car for myself, I went for 3Racing F109. I belive it's best choice when it comes to performance/value. Of course if you've got Tamiya series around where are only their cars allowed, I would look into their cars of course.
Thanks for the reply, I figured at least someone would have been a die hard and said "this is what you need to do" to be able to make this car compete even just somewhat. if I get passed too many times then I will just an extra servo with a stick attached and trip them up as they try to pass me. It is not like I will be racing any big events, just the local bumpy low traction track I have been racing at for over 5yrs now.
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Old 01-27-2011, 02:38 PM   #943
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Thanks for the reply, I figured at least someone would have been a die hard and said "this is what you need to do" to be able to make this car compete even just somewhat. if I get passed too many times then I will just an extra servo with a stick attached and trip them up as they try to pass me. It is not like I will be racing any big events, just the local bumpy low traction track I have been racing at for over 5yrs now.
Well you certainly need oil filled damper, ball diff in rear is very welcomed (when I've built car it had certainly very wobbly rearend and definitely not very smooth). For tires - I wasn't able to revive kit tires to workable state for carpet - I left them soaked in traction sauce for few days and it still was too hard. I belive soft tires from HPI should work much better.
Anyway I still feel like you would do better to get F109 instead of buying loads of tuning parts for F10. Oh and sell F10 for some money to fund new car.
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Old 01-27-2011, 03:32 PM   #944
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Old 01-27-2011, 03:36 PM   #945
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Here is my take on the HPI F10 (I curently own one). If you were going to race this car box stock, it would work best on a prepared concrete surface with the kit tires. If you were racing on a prepared asphalt track during warmer months of the years, it would also work well with kit tires.

Yes, there are some quirks with the HPI F10 straight out of the box. That doesn't mean the car is junk. The number one thing that you need to do if racing rubber tire on carpet is to get a set of the soft rears and a set of the medium fronts. You should also get some harder front springs depending on traction at your individual track. With the right tires and very limited tuning, the stock F10 is actually pretty fun to drive on carpet.

Locally we ran the F10 class with silver can motors, any HPI F10 rubber wheels, and kept the electronics cheap (Novak XRS with Tamiya 540J silvercan motors). The racing was close using the kit provided gears, but the motors came off the track a bit too hot. We were considering opening up the gearing options, but local interest in any open wheel class is spotty at best. The class eventually died, but that isn't a knock on the car itself but more about local open wheel interest.

The big question is can the box stock HPI F10 compete with other currently available r/c F1 cars? Sadly the answer is not really. However, the low cost of the HPI F10 combined with a few selective upgrades can result in a very competitive car that is similarly priced with other r/c F1 chassis. In my opinion, F1 racing should be more about having multiple types of cars on the track (with strict motor/tire rules) than having a TCS only class.

If you read through the posts in this thread you will find many useful tips on how to improve the performance of the HPI F10 into something that is capable of competing against any current r/c F1 car.
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