academygaz

I then got distracted by MotoGP rerun on TV, so the rest of it just dropped on (wheels, tyres, hexes, wings etc). Heres the finished roller:





























Build time was a leisurely 4 hours to get that far, body always takes the same amount, and probs another hour to get the electrics in and neat. No issues at all, all the screws are self tapping crossheads, so it just dropped together without fuss.

Its not fully ballraced. The rear pod has a pair of flanged bearings (and are silky smooth), but the rest of the car is bushing'ed. Only 6 of them though. The front hub bushings are metric (5x10x4mm), and you need 4 of them, and the rear axle bushings that live in the wheel adaptor are imperial (1/4x3/8''). That means a World GT rear axle from the RC10R5 could fit. The steering post could be ballraced too if small enough bearings are found, but to be honest, its near fine and slop-free as it is. And it comes with a 75t spur and 87t spur, with a 17t pinion in the box.

Any questions, feel free to ask.

bigb11

iTrader: (59)

do they have a section on gearing?

academygaz

Yes, but its not suggested what motor to use, and only gives ratios for the 75t spur, not the 87t.

trdsupra88

iTrader: (25)

Thanks for the play-by-play!!!

OSherman

iTrader: (3)

Very cool front end design.. Minimal chassis scrub.. Olny part of the chassis with the chance of scrubbing the tarmac is directly under the Battery/Electronics tray.. Nose is high and scrub free. With the exception of the front wing, obviously.

bxpitbull

iTrader: (6)

HPI told me no lipo bricks at this time. What can you report in cell size?

3rd-dan

I can see that you have installed the 6 cell stick holder.
Is the 4 cell holder also in the kit?

academygaz

Thats correct, just rounded ones (like Yeah Racing/Core/Much More etc). I don't think you could grind the chassis down as theres not too much meat left to stay strong enough, and the upper holder would be virtually gone. A carbon fibre chassis set and upper holder would do the trick though.

Yeah, I can't see how I'd fit a one cell LiPo because of the problem above, but theres the holders for 4 cell on the same sprue, its basically a narrower version of the 6 cell holders.

I'm thinking for motive power at the moment, 2S with 13.5, or 4 cell/1S with 10.5, depends what I can get my hands on.

3rd-dan

Thanks academygaz.

I need the 4 cell one for our national championships called LRP-HPI Challenge

Oh,
is that right that this car has the narrow body?

academygaz

I'm not sure how HPI are doing it, but the body thats in the box (according to them) is the 4 cell body, which has flat sidepods molded in, and extra undercuts for you to trim off the excess, and then add to the body.

I'll try and get some clear pics in daylight tomorrow but I'm waiting on an order from Japan for Mark Webber's Red Bull decals before I can crack on with painting it.

bigb11

iTrader: (59)

thanks

academygaz

Body now trimmed, you can see how HPI accomodate 6 cells with the sidepods. They aren't pretty, but if you're doing a replica colourscheme, it should be well hidden. And plenty of decals will help.

Its a tight fitting body, I haven't had a battery in it yet, but I hope the wires don't bulge the body out. The pic shows the 1mm gap, and its the same on the other side too! I'll probably end up modding the 2S LiPo I have to make the wires come out the top of it.

chrisfrom619

ACADEMYGAZ,

You are using the 4 cell version of the body and the 6 cell would fit in it? if that 's the case I will have to save my orion 2400 and 3200 lipo I was thinking of selling those but since this F10 might fit. I'm not about to go back to nimh or nicd just to run F10.

Does anybody know the motor and battery rules as far as 4,5,6 cell and 2 cell lipo battery configuration? If there is already one please point me to the right direction because I would like to start this class here in San Diego at our local track which is discount hobby wharehouse and pound it raceway.

academygaz

From looking at it, yes, if you have a rounded LiPo with connectors in the pack itself, then it'll go straight from the box. I think NiMH 6 cell packs, and LiPo's with connectors on wire will have the body pushed out around the battery area.

academygaz

Right, a bit a of an update.

My rounded LiPo doesn't fit. Its a Yeah Racing 3200, and it can be wedged in, but the ends of the battery straps don't like it, and you can't get the bodypins in, without the straps bending at odd angles. it looks like the straps need to be about 3mm further out, on each side of the chassis, no amount of grinding will solve that.

That produced a headache, so I took the endcaps and heatshrink off an old NiMH pack and slapped that in. Its powering crappy electrics (as the brushless idea wasn't gonna work with the amount of wire I had, thats going to be for another day). Silver can motor is in it too, biggest pinion I can fit is a 25t, so that slipped on. Oh, and I hadn't glued up the tyres, so they got a light coat of silver. The body is Tamiya Blue backed with Tamiya Black, and Tamiya Camel Yellow.

Finally, paint. The decals came from a Japanese RC shop (they have every 2009 car and most older ones in stock). Not cheap, but worth it. Also, a flashing rain light is on it too, from the same shop. Video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kspSXMmLPWw

http://d-drivesportsenglish.com/



















Apologies for the terrible wiring, I'm not a neat person.