Stregone

Excellent, thanks

OnlyVees

iTrader: (8)

Hey guys- I'm getting my TC3 Rally up and running. How should I gear this car with a Reedy 3300Kv motor?

beemerfan

iTrader: (39)

The answer varies greatly depending on track type, conditions, wheel size, etc. It's always best to start with a safe final drive ratio and work from there. Generally speaking, a 3300Kv BL sensorless motor is roughly equivilent to a 13.5 BL sensored or a 19t brushed. A safe FDR to start with would be around 6.4 or in other words, a 72/28 spur/pinion.

OnlyVees

iTrader: (8)

I'm finding the longer shock setup from the Rally conversion a little mushy for tarmac. Is there any reason I couldn't just limit shock travel with droop screws (and on road springs) without changing to shorter shock shafts?

Kinda like the idea of a 200mm tarmac TC3.

slaytanic

iTrader: (20)

Can anyone direct me to a setup for asphalt for the T3R? Running reedy sonic 17.5 and speedpassion pro esc with 96/45 gearing. It is outdoors and chilly here right now. The car is box stock right now.

beemerfan

iTrader: (39)

You might have better luck in one of the X-Ray forums.

racerTC3

What 190mm bodies are people using for 17.5 blinky rubber tire carpet. I run on a small technical track 60x24

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Most racers use the mazda Speed6 lightweight .....

racerTC3

Has anyone tried the Team Titian Blitz 190mm bodies, or the East Coast Bodies tune. or others from oversease? besides protoform or parma or hpi.

OnlyVees

iTrader: (8)

How would you gear a 7700Kv motor in a TC3?

racerTC3

Ok tc3 masters. Is there a list of setup changes when tying to get the TC3 "dialed" Like first changes= spring/oil change, second camber link change, third antisquat/ kick up etc.
or different categories first major changes=? second minor changes=? last fine tune changes=?. I have been able to race more lately and i want to start learning the steps to making my TC3 more consistent, insted of trying everyone elses "SETUP" since i run on a tight 25x60ft high traction/floating grip track. it is carpet but not ozite, I have tried many differnt setups and all are driveable, but would like to try and naildown a great setup for my track. My setup right now has major oversteer off power, seems odd with the free rolling brushless technology. No drag brake and i don't use brakes, i can coast 3/4 to most of the strait. so when iam driving i have to concentrait on the throttle, if i lift too much oversteer if i stay on too much slight push. I have been able to run some of the fastest lap times around 5.0 seconds, and i can run great lines during practices, but thow in 7 other TC's on a small track, with un expected braking then my car gets crazy loose. Thanks for any and all information

BJoe

I've just got a quick and stupid question, I recently aquired 2 free TC3's, one RTR and one FT, and for the life of me can't remember if the RTR's had full bearings. Did they?

R3VoLuTiOn

iTrader: (29)

pretty sure they did.

if you take apart the rear hub you'll know for sure

beemerfan

iTrader: (39)

Think like a 5.5 turn sensored BL motor or something hotter than a 9 turn brushed. I'd start somewhere around 9 or 10:1 FDR and adjust for track conditions and motor temps from there.

beemerfan

iTrader: (39)

Sounds like you already have a pretty good handle on it but here's a few things I've played with that have helped me.

If you are having trouble with power-on / power-off steering, try working with the castor blocks to make adjustments. I find 2 degrees kick-up + 2 degrees castor works well for most tracks.

Playing with suspension links changes your roll center and camber geometry. I found that you can also lower your roll center by placing 1 or 2 small washers under the suspension mounts. I had to file the top of the mount down to clear the transmission case afterwards but it seems to have improved the car's handling without affecting the linkage geometry as much. EDIT: This requires a little more explanation. PM me if you actually want to try it and I'll clarify.

In most cases, I haven't found any advantage to having a lot of rear toe in. I decrease mine even less than 2 degrees by using Losi rear hub carriers on the opposite side to take out rear toe in. Any XXX-S or JRX-S rear hubs will do, just be careful not to get the off-set ones. You may need to add an extra thin spacer on the hinge pin because they are slightly narrower than the stock TC3 ones.

I have several TC3s and on all of mine, I've also found the rear toe-in to be staggered a little like a manufacturing defect that was never corrected or developed over time with the molds. If I set up the cars with what looks like perfect balance and alignment, they pull slightly to the left when rolling them slowly over a very smooth surface like cement basement or garage floor. If I adjust the steering trim to correct this, the rear of the car "skips" about every 10 ft. or so and the alignment no longer looks centered. I correct it by using any Losi rear hub combination that has 1/2 degree more toe-in on the right side of the car. It is still not perfect, but better than stock and there is almost no noticable skipping on smooth floors anymore. It's kind of hard to explain here but if you follow what I'm talking about, try the smooth floor experiment with your car to see if it would work for you. This trick has improved the handling of my cars.