bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

By TP packs, I meant thunderpower, like the packs Paul Lemieux uses to beat everybody else all the time ..... Also, you are right about the tc3's toughness, specially with a large front bumper, but I think that once you've experienced a fast servo, you won't go back to the S3004's...

ralph brunt

iTrader: (19)

hey guys i borrowed a friends old tc3 to race this sunday at hobby town in corona. any way i was told i had to run it in the gt10 class due to the supra body it has on it, as well as run a 17.5 motor. Well it had an old rooter esc and i have no idea what brushed motor in it. i installed a castle v2 speed control and a tekin 17.5 motor in it and it is a big ol turd hell i can run faster than this thing.. i tried to check the gearing but i dont know how to get the spur out with out taking apart the hole rearend of the car, is there an easier way?

even with the worst gearing possible i think it should be way faster than what it is... can anybody give me a starting point?

i searched the thread but came up empty other than the gearing could be off. it has 48 pitch gears now.

any help would be greatly appreciated
thanks ralph

slashdriver

iTrader: (84)

you almost certainly will have to swap spur gears. you have to take the rear diff cover off and the rear bearing cap on the center shaft off.

a 17.5 needs to run somewhere around 4:1 (assuming no timing advance in your ESC), so you are going to need a fairly small spur and a fairly large pinion. TC3 "trans" ratio is 2.5 so something like a 60 tooth spur and a 37 tooth pinion. (I don't know if that combo will fit a TC3).

start by posting what spur/pinion you have.

BIGTRUX

iTrader: (42)

Hey guys I just did a lil vid for the guys at our track that wanna run TC3 and TC4's in VTA and 17.5 non boosted..

not sure if this is what your looking for but give it a look..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-q3ex9NbUk

ralph brunt

iTrader: (19)

ok took it apart and its gears at 25/72 48 pitch, its got a carbon fiber aftermarket chassis so clearance isnt a problem.

LKracer

iTrader: (175)

I picked up a used TC3 Factory team kit that was built, and only raced a couple times.. are these still competitive in racing now a days? and can someone tell me what VTA is?

ralph brunt

iTrader: (19)

i dont know about competitive, fun? yes. i will be racing one on sunday, i have no plans on winning but, i will have fun no matter what.. i think vta means vintage trans am. hope this helps
ralph

beemerfan

iTrader: (39)

TC3s are still very competitive especially in spec classes like VTA. However, driving and setup skills trumps your chassis choice every time. It doesn't matter if you're driving a TC3 or an Xray T3 2012. So practice & track time is the wisest place to spend your money.

VTA = Vintage Trans Am

You can find out more about it here...
http://www.usvintagetransam.com/

Or here...
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...-part-2-a.html

Or about the full scale events here...
http://www.historictransam.com/

It's a very popular class, and the TC3 is a very popular chassis within the class.

BIGTRUX

iTrader: (42)

For parking lot racing where you need a good amount of ground clearance and body roll the TC3 is still a great car like others mentioned you need a good setup and some skill to bring it to the top of the heap. It can be done.. keep in mind you want to set it up as soft as you can and still keep it from rolling over.. I would go with like 14.5 springs and some were around a 35/40 for oil. and just consern your self with tight clean corners over flat out speed and I think you will be happy with your car.

racerTC3

[QUOTE=beemerfan;10592459]TC3s are still very competitive especially in spec classes like VTA. However, driving and setup skills trumps your chassis choice every time. It doesn't matter if you're driving a TC3 or an Xray T3 2012. So practice & track time is the wisest place to spend your money

exactly track time+practice=faster car. Any one can go buy the latest TC chassis, or flavor of the month lipo/motor, but that doesn't make you faster if you cant get around the track without crashing. I used to think i need the latest stuff to compete, untill i learned about chassis setup, and all of the factors that come in to play. I love running my "tuned" TC3 against all the others and i grinn when they say thats a TC3, and thats before i switched to 17.5 brushless and lipo. Iam now having to relearn my chassis setup with the light weight lipo hi torque brusless motor technology.

Stregone

Does anyone have any insight into the pros and cons of the composite diff and the steel diff? Is there more to it than weight?

BIGTRUX

iTrader: (42)

rotating mass how quite you want your car to be, and how bullet proof you need it. composite is the only way to go in my opinion but some guys like to run deep mod motors and need the steel to hold up if they tap a wall...

beemerfan

iTrader: (39)

Composite diffs are half the weight. And that's rotating mass so it's important to keep it down in top level competition. I think the numbers are something like 30 grams each for the steel and 15 for the composite. Also, for some reason my plastic ones always feel a little smoother than the metal ones. It might have something to do with the locked ring.

But the plastic doesn't hold up as well and you will find yourself replacing them often as the outdrives wear pretty bad from the dogbone pins. For VTA, I usually run steel in front and composite in the back. The fronts take much more of a beating because of the steering. There is also a compromise solution with the lightened steel outdrives sold as a TC4 upgrade. A diff built with those weighs about 20 grams. So you get lighter weight and durability.

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Irrgang racing still has aluminum diff outdrives , and aluminum spools in their clearance department.... Also the losi LCD's (losa3344) will eliminate much of the front outdrive wear.... The aluminum parts weigh alot less than the steel ones, and offer more durability than the plastic outdrives: build it once, and forget about it for years...

racerTC3

What about running a graphite chassis like IRS or BMI. It sounds like they had an optional kit to make them stiff for foam racing. It seems like rubber tire racing needs a flexable chassis? It would look like a modern chassis, but still be shaft driven. What does everyone else think?