THE DARKSIDE

iTrader: (2)

I'm having the same problem as well. I've used the BRP one in the past. It is made of 1/8" Kydex and doesn't really do a much better job than the RPM one. I think that I might make one out of Carbon Fiber and be done with it.

-Eric

killingtime

iTrader: (3)

My starting point for choosing a pinion, is to get one that will hit your top speed about 3/4 the way down the straight. Once you have that figured out, see how it feels on the infield. If it doesn't have the torque you like, then drop a tooth or so.
You are not going to get a good answer about "what pinion to run?" from people who have never seen the track your running or seen the car on it. I was told from one of the well known motor builders that advertised on this site, that two identical motors don't always need the same pinion to run at their best. So don't get yourself stuck in the trap "This pinion worked in my other P2K2, so it should be fine in this P2K2". So with that said, I hope you can find the pinion you need, to any track you go to from now on.

ajg

Ok, Thanks. I'll just have to go to the track early and try different pinion before practice starts.

Aries326

iTrader: (19)

I recently bought a Factory TC3 here for my cousin and the previous owner seemed to know what he was doing. He left the original plastic bumper mount (or whatever it is called) but instead of having a thick foam bumper, his bumper was half the thickness but was pretty hard. You can tell that it would definitely protect your front end.

Look for wannabee and ask him about it if you're curious. He is the guy I bought it off of.

Scott S

iTrader: (30)

What I've done with much success is use an RPM TC3 front bumper and a trinity foam bumper together. The key is to fill the foam bumpers' triangular holes with peices of foam made out of the stock tc3 grey bumper. After it's filled, round off the bumper as nessecary to fit under your body so it's supported. This method provides a great hard bumper which keeps the front end from breaking and almost always keeps the front end from bending down. If it does bend down, just use a heat gun and bend it up slightlyy.. just enough so it bends up next time you hit instead of down. Hope this helps!

PaZ

thats exactly what i did

cartix

iTrader: (36)

Is the Xtreme TC3 carbon fiber chassis good?

Wild Cherry

Could it be possible to give a page number of that post or date ect ?

Nova F1 Racer

iTrader: (3)

page 252

MadMikeB

Hi Guys,

I know this is a nitro tc3 part, but can anyone tell me if this one-way will fit the electric TC3?

AE Part Number 1728

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBMK1&P=7

Thanks

MIKE

Big Rigg

Nope, the outdrives are too long... maybe with electric outdrives, but I've never heard/tried that... for that money you should just get the standard heavy duty electric TC3 one... (BTW TC4 dogbones rock!)

Nova F1 Racer

iTrader: (3)

Just found out something weird and I have not seen/read about the diff assembly for the TC3.
I have a blueprint drawing of the TC3 from Team assoc website and just noticed that the steel diff assembly is different from the molded diff assembly.
The diff bolt goes into the long outdrive on the molded outdrive and the diff spring is on the diff bolt.

On the steel diff, the bolt goes into the short outdrive and the diff is on the lock nut side....

Comments? Should I change my diff around?

THX

MadMikeB

Nova,

This is the way that IRS (Irgang) recommend building the TC3 diffs. I've done it both ways with no discernable difference.

As a general comment, the TC3 diff seems to be grouped in lightweight and heavy duty specs. Apart from the different outdrives, the actual diff rings are different as well, one (I think the HD, but can't remember) uses the "D" shaped diff rings, the other uses totally round diff rings.

My personal preference is for the HD diff but using the IRS outdrives and construction method, but there is not much in it, particularly if you are running stock or 540. I can guarantee you that 19T or Mod will annihilate the lightweight diff (particularly the outdrives) in no time. Using the HD and IRS components, if you're running stock or 540, you can build the rear diff and it is fine for ages (months and months in my case). Can't say about the front cause I'm running a one-way.

As for whether you should change your diff around, if its working OK, I'd simply leave it until rebuild time.

MIKE

DLM2005

What is 7mm uptravel equal to on the AE droop gauge?

graphiteman

iTrader: (4)

I decided to try the Losi XXX- rear hubs, and the CVD driveshaft will not reach the drive cups unless I run an excessive amount of camber. Is there a differential drive cup that is a bit longer so I can give these hubs a try?