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Originally posted by wyd When using the Associated lightweight plastic diff halves what size are those diff bearings? Don't want to use those bronze bushings. The bearings from my steel diffs are too thick to work. |
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Sorry guys, just thought i would give ya something to laugh about... :smile:
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And something to drool over... man i hope i can get one of these! :sneaky:
- Dave |
Dave....
Just promise me you'll ditch that ugly wing if you get one. Factory RICE. |
:lol: Do you know, the dealer actually charges MORE for that batwing?! They need to offer it as a freebie, like Chick-Fil-A offered nuggets years ago to mall shoppers for free before they could charge for them! :lol: There are two of em here at the dealer... i wonder if they would notice the difference between my bent A$$ Prelude and the red EVO8?! :weird:
- Dave |
Originally posted by SpeediePHATT We had a long discussion a while ago about this. The reason for the bearings being discontinued was that the diff halves were melting. I cant remember why the bushings were better, it had something to do with the flex of the plastic versus the metal halves or something to that affect. I think you can still find bearings tho but cant remember where. I know not much help but Im old and forgetful. |
WYD: You can get them from Acer Racing. I have them, and they work well with no meltdowns as long as you pack the area they are in with a diff grease. I did this with the bushings as well. The only thing i noticed was the diffs stayed smooth longer with less rebuilds. No actual difference in handling ability.
- Dave |
Thanks Dave. I will check out Acer. I was looking for a little longer lasting smooth diff setup.
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Originally posted by DaveW WYD: You can get them from Acer Racing. I have them, and they work well with no meltdowns as long as you pack the area they are in with a diff grease. I did this with the bushings as well. The only thing i noticed was the diffs stayed smooth longer with less rebuilds. No actual difference in handling ability. - Dave |
Re: Shimming
Originally posted by Crashmaster Hi guys, my first ever post:sweat: !! So far I'm on page 130 of the thread so still got more to read!! I was wondering if you could help me with the shimming of my transmission. I have read that you don't run with the outdrive shim, but I am running with the metal diffs, so I wasn't too sure if the same applied to the metal as the plastic diffs. Also could you reccomend the number of shims on the front and rear input shafts, as again I'm not to sure if this will differ. Cheers Crashmaster P.S. Great thread so far :nod: Thanks again Crashmaster :) |
Clean all the bearings and then check the transmission cases for binding. As you tighten the cases it can pinch the bearings and cause binding. I used really small spaces between the cases and now my tranny spins super smooth and free.
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Originally posted by wyd Clean all the bearings and then check the transmission cases for binding. As you tighten the cases it can pinch the bearings and cause binding. I used really small spaces between the cases and now my tranny spins super smooth and free. |
binding
I'll tell you right now that a file and dremel job on those trans cases will work wonders!!
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binding in tranny case
I used a dremel sanding bit #407 to sand the case were the outdrive bearings sit . The bit is almost the exact size of the bearing + it doesnt remove alot so its hard to overdo it.
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binding
Also by loose screws in the trans cases this could alter the shock towers by making them "wiggle" because of the loose screws. Un less you used spacers...but then your letting dirt in to the trannys....Also going nuts with the sanding will create "wobble" in the diffs themselves..there is a fine ling between loose and to loose.
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