Johnbull:

Good results, well done!!

Regarding the Corally Pro Series. I have an 8 double and I was finding it drawing so much current that it was causing the receiver/steering servo to glitch - so much so that there was no control. Going back to a Reedy 11 double solved the problem.

I'm interested because it I was also using the GT7 at the time.

Have you ever had this problem? If so, what did you do about it?

Trackdesigner....

Where are you running rubber on carpet? What track are you talking about?

Horatio. Greetings from Malta.

Yes indeed I had just that problem last week, but it was nothing to do with the motor.

In an attempt to leave a larger area before the fan clear of wires etc so that the fan can blow more cool and clean air to the motor, I repositioned the electrics on Thursday.

I put the GT7 upright, where the receiver is in the picture. This brought the speedo wires, particularly the + (red) too close to the aerial, and caused bad glitching. Luckily I took the car down to the track and ran it that way on Friday and found out then.

Back at the shop I simply relocated the electrics as in the picture and all the glitching disappeared. I tested the car at the track again on Saturday afternoon, and Josh ran it successfully on Sunday.

We experienced a glitching problem at one of the championship rounds last year too. This was eventually traced to a broken capacitor. We put a fresh motor in for the next race and it was fine.

The motors we used yesterday were 8 x 1 Gold in the first 2 finals which were dry, and 9 x 1 Gold in the wet third final.

Hope this helps. Lastly, do you run schottky diodes. I have one on the motors and the big external one supplied by Novak with the GT7s.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.

Angle for F- 3+2
 

I usually just try and get it as close to flat as possible.. Either by having the 3+2 Block milled some or by using washers to bring the f Block up some.. I have been playing with the pro-Squat - Anti-Squat but i am not sure what they are actually doing at this time.. Need to test somemore to figure that out...


Mike Blackstock

Johnbull-

What is holding the motor in your car? Who makes that?

Blackstock,

Get out there and test boy.... LOL :lol: Inquiring minds would like to know!! :nod:

Just kidding.. Great year so far for you..

Good luck at Snowbirds.. I am staying home this year.. :D

Mike Principato:

MikeB: Thanks! I noticed that my R 2+2 blocks sit flush with the bumper/chassis when mounted, but the R 3+2 blocks, ALL OF THEM that i have, DO NOT (almost 1 mm)... the bumper wiggles up and down when mounted. This is curious, because the squat is supposed to be the same from one block to the next, only a change in toe. Even the R 3+0 block sits flush when mounted with the bumper like the R 2+2 mount, but has the squat change in the pin holes, not where the screws go into the mount. I guess it was just a defective mold from AE? I trimmed all of my R 3+2 blocks down so they were all the same yesterday, just in case i have to swap one out with little time for the repair. I cant believe i was just swappin parts last year and come to find out NOW that i was running something totally different then i thought i was, its a pain for troubleshooting a setup! I also noticed with a little more measurement of the car, all of my F-0 blocks with an F block up front gives me a tad bit of toe out at the pin, the pins are further apart in the front than the back of the front mounts. I remedied this with my countersink bit and a little gentle "convincing" of the parts. I guess the screw holes in the chassis were further apart or together on either end of the front mounts from the factory. Now, once i hit the boards at mach2, all of this prep will be useless. :flaming: :lol: "BROOM AND DUSTPAN TO TURN 4... BROOM AND DUSTPAN TO TURN 4!!" :ha:

- Dave

Shimming
 

Hi guys, my first ever post:sweat: !! So far I'm on page 130 of the thread so still got more to read!!

I was wondering if you could help me with the shimming of my transmission. I have read that you don't run with the outdrive shim, but I am running with the metal diffs, so I wasn't too sure if the same applied to the metal as the plastic diffs. Also could you reccomend the number of shims on the front and rear input shafts, as again I'm not to sure if this will differ.

Cheers

Crashmaster
P.S. Great thread so far :nod:

When using the Associated lightweight plastic diff halves what size are those diff bearings? Don't want to use those bronze bushings. The bearings from my steel diffs are too thick to work.

Why bearings? There are no real benefit to bearings. The bearings would only spin (and only slightly) when there is diff action. I highly doubt you'd be able to feel the difference with your hands, much less while driving.

Bearings are just a tad smoother and do last alot longer over time vs. a bushing.

Cheers Johnbull.

I run the GT7 in my SD upright at the moment. The glitching actually occured in a Losi XXX with the Corally 8 double Pro Series motor. The servo was a Hitec digital 5945 servo. I was using just 1 Schottky diode on the motor plus the pre fitted capacitor that came with the GT7. It glitched pretty bad, especially under hard acceleration. Thinking about it, when I put the Reedy Fury 11 double in the Losi, that motor had a Schottky diode of it's own and there was no glitching whatsoever.

So perhaps the diode on the Corally motor is to blame?

Oh, BTW - 9 single in the wet:lol: You guys are nuts!!! I have a job running my TCs with mods in the dry - let alone the wet.;)

hi to every one
 

hi every one i am jean from malta i just wanted to introduce my self to the forum i race Rc i have a TC3 Ft



regards

Does anybody know the part number for the 2+2 rear blocks?

Its either 3863 or 3864 i thing its in the 3864 tree the optional set.