R/C Paperboy:
1) yeah I think you can still get the steel outdrives, if not get yourself some IRS lite drives, or pretty much any other aftermarket one. You could also try Square's delrin ones for less rotating mass
2) never heard of anyone doing this... but there are some aluminium hubs out there if you want to try them... or a lot of people use losi rear hubs for extra tuning options, but I don't think they're any more durable
3) Yep, there's a new HD oneway out now. Less breakages due to 6mm oneway bearings. part no is 3978

Ariel,

I have done some looking before, and the cheapest I found was Ebay.

I don't have them, but I wouldn't mind picking some up (wishing I had some :p). I have heard nothing but GREAT things about them, so they should work out pretty good.

I'm not sure how much some used threaded shocks for the TC3 would be. :confused: I have just never looked into them.

-Kevin

You JUST figured that out?! :eek:

Haha :D Just playin' man! :lol:

Nah man I turned it on after you posted!:D

Re: chassis
 

Yeah I guess the tc3 I have is like 5-6 years old and the arms on it don't have the droop screws! And the chassis does'nt have the little ears on the chassis that make contact with the droop screws.

i have the older style chassis without the "ears" to support the droop screws. i have found that the newer style arms with droop screws will still work, it may not be as long lasting as with the "ears" but so far ive saved $40 on a new chassis.

Thanks for the info R3VoLuTiOn!

But I might have found a new chassis already!

At least now I know I can get the arms!:D

RCBoyz.com sells the threaded shock kit for $39.99, which is the cheapest I've seen.

Re: chassis
 

I bought the FIRST generation Racer TC3 and there was nothing at all involving droop screws. Then, in Oct '03 I got the FT TC3 and that was when I found droop!! They also changed the Diffs, but had to find that out the hard way!!!

Hi friends.Greetings from Malta.

FANS

With the hot temperatures we race in in Malta a fan is a must.

Here's how I run it on my son's championship winning car.

Incidentally this car won all 3 finals at last weekend's Kelloggs Easter Cup, breaking lap and race records in the process.

To the fella that asked about keeping diffs in one piece: get a set of IRS alloy diff halves to replace the plastic ones. You'll never touch them again.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.

Where did that motor clamp come from? It has to be aftermarket, theres no heatsink on it.

The diffs they fixed with brass bushings inside instead of bearings. I have never melted mine even once when it came loose on me because I was trying to run it too loose.

The rear hub carriers still have the same problem. This is easily fixed by not hitting stuff. If thats not possible the Losi rear hubs are alot nicer. The graphite ones wont bend and the plastic ones will take alot of abuse before breaking. They also give you a little more wheelbase adjustment as they need another spacer in the rear.

The new associated heavy duty oneway is alot better. And the Yokomo one is even better than that.

Wow, thanks for all the replies. Sounds like the car just keeps on getting better and better.

johnbull,
what/how different/trying to achive - mounting the rear camberlinks like so?
(pretty clever)

thanks rovic...

I've been away awhile, could anybody tell me about the updated diffs? Or any new parts for the TC3?