Why does the right rear of the chassis bend up.

Heat?
Tight motor screws?
Bad material?
????:confused: :confused:

My chassis is .5mm's lower on the left side when measuring with a ride height gauge, the reason for this is there's more weight on the left side of the car than there is on the right, just think, you have a whole battery pack sitting on the left side and just a motor, servo and esc on the right(use Ko receiver-weighs nothing). On the subject of the motor screw, 2.5 turns is enough-shouldn't warp the chassis.

nevada:
ur attachment doesnt help us answer your confusing question:sweat: :sweat:

lee82gx, Sorry about the attachment.

What I'm saying is that the chassis bends upward in the right rear corner. I use a heat gun to bend it back down. After every race day it bends back up. Why?

I've never seen that nevada unless of course, you have milled out the chassis where it looks like swiss cheese, you're motor is getting way too hot(>200 degrees) and you are tightening down your motor screw bolt down more than 2.5 turns, you do have a spring on the outer motor screw bolt don't you? Other than that all I can think of is that the car has taken a terrible crash and has bent the chassis, this happens to me sometimes with the rear hubs-they will actually bend out to about +2 degrees toe-out and not break. Did you buy the car used?

proudwinner, The chassis is brand new. Its not milled and didn't drill any holes in it. This happens to every TC3 chassis I have had.
The car works great when the chassis is flat. When its bent the car is a handfull.

Everyone needs to look at their chassis and see if its bent up on the right rear corner.

Alright, let me get it out of my car bag and I'll post a pic, I sure hope it isn't bent. Like I said, I notice a ride height problem but I haven't noticed a warped chassis.

John its from the clamping force on the motor and the heat the motor creates. I know there is something you can do about it. you have to strengthen the rear right corner of the webbing. that should fix it. or get a warpspeed chassis.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...0&pagenumber=4

Here is something that might help the tweaking problem with the graphite chassis.

I don't notice it on mine and a pic is below, I'll post a better pic in a minute, batteries died out on me.

put the straight edge right under the motor cam.

Define rear. Near the very back of the chassis by the rear bumper or right behind the motor screws?

Will do James, waiting on batteries for my camera.

right under the motor cam/screws for the clamp. if its warped it will bulge out because when the motor gets hot the cam kinda melts into the chassis for lack of a better description. it will cause the chassis to develop a tweak.

Proudwinner, under the rear suspension mount(near the bumper). The best way to check it is by using a droop gauge. Make sure that both sides are even. Check droop at very end of the a-arm on the back side. set it at 5mm. Then place your chassis on a flat board. Using a ride height gauge check the same point of the rear a-arm. If the left is 5mm and the right is 5.5mm then your chassis is bent.

At the end of racedays my chassis is bent about 1mm.