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Quote:

Originally posted by Tsubasa Sakai
Hi guys,I just got a TC3.Can someone shows me what is the best way to solder the battery connector?Seem the normal 3x2 saddle pack with vertical connector doesn't fit any all.
Thanks.

I'm not sure if i can describe it well...but what i did was make a slot using a dremel on the center brace so that it clears the corally plugs...attach is a quick drawing of it...will take pic soon for you if u need it....i did 4 slot so that i could move the batteries forward or backward if i need to

Quote:

You don't need to dremel the chassis ... you just need to bend a couple of Dean's Battery Bars and solder the Corally or R-Minus style plugs on top ...

These pics are a little blurry but will give you a good idea of what I mean ...

Here is pic 1 ... it is a pack that I have not finished ... the Deans Battery Bar is bent and soldered on and that is as far as I've gotten ...

Here is pic 2 ... it is a pack that is finished ... the plug is mounted on top of the Deans Battery Bar ...

Yes your oil weight is way too thin. Your springs are also a tad soft for foam tires. Another thing i noticed, almost no one runs the same compound foam front and rear (electric), try plaid fronts and purple rears. Also try 70 wt front, 60 wt back for oil. And purple/red springs for asphalt. Hope this helps :)

Quote:

Originally posted by Finsy
I have an IRS chassis FTTC3 and need some help in setting up the kit. The car seems to hookup during off power and spin out during on power.If I practically slows the car it doesnt hookup. I was thinking of putting in heavier weight oil as it seems that weight transfer from front/rear is very fast.Does putting heavier oil slow the weight transfer?If so what is a good weight to start off with?I have from 30-70wt oil in my pit box.

My setup:-

Aspalt medium to high traction

Front
35 shore GRP foam
30wt oil
red spring
1.5deg camber
4deg caster/no kickup
0deg toe-out
camber links long(inner/upper)
balldiff/steel diff halves
aluminium CVD/pin cushion
5mm ride height
droop 6 on Assoc. gauge

Rear
35 shore GRP foam
30wt oil
blue spring
1.5deg camber
3deg toe in
camber links long(inner/upper)
balldiff/plastic diff halves
composite bones
battery upfront
5.5mm ride height
droop 4 on Assoc. gauge

Once I get the car running right I already have a locked diff and also a one way to try which is better for my local track.If anything is missing from my setup please do let me know so that you guys can help me better

Thanks

Here is pic 3 ... in one of my cars ... notice that the battery sits in its normal position without any modification ...

Just a reminder however ... if you are running a graphite chassis as in the picture, you must use a dielectric to isolate the battery from the frame since graphite is an electrical conductor and will short between cells ... I use elctrical tape, but it must be replaced quite often.

Axiom you got a tc3 now? Thought you were a losi guy:nod: Anyway you'll be fast as long as you run axiom:)

Quote:

Originally posted by Axiom5B
Yes your oil weight is way too thin. Your springs are also a tad soft for foam tires. Another thing i noticed, almost no one runs the same compound foam front and rear (electric), try plaid fronts and purple rears. Also try 70 wt front, 60 wt back for oil. And purple/red springs for asphalt. Hope this helps :)

Axiom5B - i try the changes that you sugested and will see if that helps....locally there's no color coded foams available only with shore rating....i'll try 37 front 35 rear the next time i hit the track...by the way would your suggestion be good on a one way or a spool

thanks

hooked - i see you're running a Novak SS...what gear ratio/rollout are you running

Quote:

Originally posted by Finsy
hooked - i see you're running a Novak SS...what gear ratio/rollout are you running

Man ... you've got some sharp eyes ... not much in that pic for clues, but you nailed it ...

I'm currently running 22/72 48 pitch ... my tires are approx. 62.5 mm ... therefore my rollout is approx. 23.99 mm = 0.94434 inches

Quote:

Originally posted by Hooked
Man ... you've got some sharp eyes ... not much in that pic for clues, but you nailed it ...

I'm currently running 22/72 48 pitch ... my tires are approx. 62.5 mm ... therefore my rollout is approx. 23.99 mm = 0.94434 inches

thanks...sensor wires and the connectors gave the hints :)

Quote:

Originally posted by Finsy
thanks...sensor wires and the connectors gave the hints :)

Darn ... I knew I should have cut them off before taking the pics :D ;)

Regarding fitting the batteries, 2400's fit fine and do not touch the chassis. I bought 3300's and they are tight. I was told the graphite chassis will short the pack if it touches, is this true?

I tried double sided tape (leaving the plastic on one side) on both sides of the tray but now the batteries don't fit.

Anyway, Question is, will the chassis short out the pack? If so what is the fix?

Quote:

Originally posted by RCJohnny
Regarding fitting the batteries, 2400's fit fine and do not touch the chassis. I bought 3300's and they are tight. I was told the graphite chassis will short the pack if it touches, is this true?

I tried double sided tape (leaving the plastic on one side) on both sides of the tray but now the batteries don't fit.

Anyway, Question is, will the chassis short out the pack? If so what is the fix?

The graphite chassis will definately short the batteries ... I use the foam pieces from the AE B2 buggy (pn 9238 - "B2 Battery Spacers, Foam - Two Foam Pads") on the outer edge of the chassis and electrical tape on the inner edge of the chassis ... 2400, 3000, and 3300 fit nice and snug ... the electrical tape needs to be replaced every so often though ...

I can include a pic if you want ... my dig camera is in the garage, but I can get it ...