Pit Crew

Referring to steering block. Your talking about the screws that go through the metal guides on the bottom of the carriers. I hate those screws.

I'll check that, but I looked and they were both there, (i have lost a few...).

I realize there is a little weight transfer from side to side when on power with a Mod, but this is EXTREME!

Johnnytc3

iTrader: (1)

also check the ball end that screws down through the block carrier, mine always work itself loose. Then check your cvds and make sure they are smooth .
Johnny

Hooked

Equal throw (end points) on your radio will in fact cause uneven steering, I just can't remember if it is more left or more right ... if you have a setup board you can prove this to yourself ... you need to set each side endpoint differently to get the same degree of travel left and right ...

Also ... have you checked tweak ... you have not mentioned in your post.

Charles

Those suggestions were quick and helpful. I am typing with oily hands as I just finished wrencing on my car.

Thank you lem2, DOTMAN, and PizzaDude.

PitCrew I want TC3 for 100.00. Where are you? How much to ship? Are the electronics included? Radio? :-). Were you kidding?

lem2

iTrader: (6)

hi, that has happened to me too and after wrenching on my car, it was still there, reason: I screwed in the ball end way too much that the tip is protruding inside the steering block and hits the bearings which was the reason for uneven steering throw.

it burned my Servo, ruin my servo saver!

hope your car is okay now!

Stevie

My TC3-as only been used at 3 meetings so far,
but at the last meeting on friday-half way through my 1st round the car started pulling to the left-so to finish the race i altered the trims etc.
But when i looked to see what was wrong-the steering rack had lots of play.e.g when i wiggle the wheels left to right the steering rack wiggles/rocks as well,but im sure it wasn't like this before i started.I also had i few crashes-
also a mate alter'd my servo end points so to try to stop any stress on the servo-but he did this at the end of the last meeting before this one & with it happening i my first round i feel it could be connected??
Ive tried tightening the screw that has a spring on it,to tighten the servo saver-but i thought it didn't make any diffrence until the end of the screw was touching the main shaft-so i tried putting a thicker washer in place where the thin shim that is between the spring and the rack-so the servo saver is tighter,but when i used a little force to wiggle/rock the wheels the steering rack still wiggles/rocks.Where has a mates s/rack is solid any has no slop what so ever..

This problem is really getting to me because i cain't find what is causing it,if i know what is the cause it would'nt be as bad..

Has any one else ever had/seen this problem or as an idea what to check to sort it???
Help

stevie

racerdx6

Mabey your steering rack bushings are worn down and need to be replaced? Or mabey if you have bearings, one of your steering bearings is broken and needs to be replaced?

IMPACTPLAYR

iTrader: (7)

Stevie-- your post isn't ver coherant.. Par of it sounds like the rack is "floping around" and the other part sounds as if the servo saver isn't working properly......

Is the arm on the servo saver arm moving as if the spring is too weak, or is the rack moving up and down on the posts it's bushings ride on??

oro27

iTrader: (33)

Hello guys, my rear ball diff doesnt hold very well, after few packs I have to center the diff all over again, I plan to lock them out, would this be advisable? thanks

wiley

i have a spare stock tc3(given by a friend) that i would like to do something fun to it...i was thinking of putting some truck tires to it and maybe try to mount a truck body to it also.....this would only be used to run around the backyard by my daughter...

or would a rally conversion be better

any input would be great

thanks

IMPACTPLAYR

iTrader: (7)

Remove the droop screws or internal spacer from the shocks, get the green ralley springs ( I think they are longer), and jack that thing up....

Then order a set of tamiya tires for the TL01 based S-10 and a body and you have a TC3 truck, no need to order a pecial raqlley kit if it's just for play.....

wiley

impactplayer - thanks for the tips....for bodies what should i get??does the normal truck bodies fit??
thanks again

racerdx6

Here's what I did when I was running my TC3 as a rally car. I removed all internal shock limiters (if your kit has droop screws remove those), I installed Team Associated buggy front green springs. They're longer than the touring springs and work very well with the long travel you get on your shocks. I raised my body, I would of gotten a rally body if I felt like it..... but I didn't . I think a rally body would look cooler than a truck body, but thats just my opinion . I moved all the shocks to the innermost mounting position to squeeze out a little more shock travel. I installed a rear shock tower up front to get a little more front shock travel. And last but probably the one of the most important things, install a rally bumper, it makes a huge difference. Your car doesn't dig into the ground half as much which is even nice just bashing. Trust me, its worth the 5 bucks . Hope this helps!

Charles

Hello, Question #1 Which bearings are giving the lowest friction in the drive train? I have worked on tranny cases and my old bearings are shot. I cleaned and oiled old bearings. Question #2 I installed Losi steering nuckels, there seems to be more thread holding power, I'll see how they hold up after I tap a board. Do I still need crush shim between bearings with losi nuckle?
Thanks,
Chas

Johnnytc3

iTrader: (1)

you should still shim if you have "play" in your axles, as for your drive train, half of it is making sure you dont pinch your bearings when you install them into your drive train. there is a website that shows you how to do this. I dont remember where though.
johnny