Pilot... sounds to me like you are having a CVD binding up and popping. Turn your wheels to the left and right and inspect where the pin goes through the axle/coupling and into the CVD bone... it may be bent/broken? Check also the caster block... it may be popping if it is broken only on one side...and the load from the spool on the driveaxles will tweak the arm enough to do one or the other as you try and corner/apply load to one side. Just a few ideas....hope it helps.
- Dave

Spaz... i tape my cells in place... have for a long while. Regular strapping tape seems to let the cells move if you are hit hard. I use that real good strapping tape most oval guys use, i think Wolfe carries it? Its red or black... and VERY strong.
- Dave

I understand that but why does it still happen when I hold the car in the air and give it gas while turning. The solid diff worked for me before without making this noise and chatter, its something binding really bad but only when I turn and I know its in the diff but don't know how it could possibly be doing it.

Spaz... you went beyond that point that some of the AE Guys talk about for moving your cells inward :)

dave-ill look into it thanks. im using fiber tape for now, this will be my first weekend taping them in so it will have to do for now, the batts seem pretty secure. maybe ill post some pics of my car later.

rcpilot-try turning your epa down on your radion and see what happens.

mike-i know, lol i have flex now, go figure. if i do another chassis or get another one done i wont go that far lol. it is really noticable in mod. :( i think i need a top deck.

btw nice job on the chassis ill let you know when im ready to get a new one. thanks

you can just get some of that sigle sided foam pad thing and put it on the inside to move them out to get the right balance back. The really thin stuff like they use on screen doors works for me.

The cvd's are fine, don't bind anywhere, caster blocks are brand new, nothing is binding in the drivetrain. I just can't figure it out.

When I turn the epa down its not as loud and doesn't bind as much.

team ae,sorry, i wrote it is right side heavy but i meant to write it is left side heavy, which is why all the additional lead was needed.
the chassis is balanced now.:)

Spaz-

Instead of a top deck...if you are still below weight add some epoxy the the webbing..that will add weight so you will be legal and stiffen it up. Cyrul fills all his webbing with Epoxy and then grinds it down the middle until he makes weight.

im actually slightly overweight right now but i think im going to jbweld the center brace anyway, i would rather have a stiffer chassis than and slightly lighter car. cyrul said he wouldnt jbweld his chassis again because the top deck worked so much better and now hes overweight but i think i can find other places to lose the weight to make up for the jb weld. time for some more dremel work hehe.

Hey guys I was wondering why would people run a rear tower in the front? What advantage does it have?

I am running on asphalt(socal) right now, using stock setup. I need a little more steering. Im going to try moving the batts in the foward position. I will get the chassis mod done also. By the way I have 2 regular diffs. Running regular stratus.

Thanks

It changes the front geometry to give more front bite (but you have to shim it up a bit)

We discussed this at length about 20 pages back with regards to a locked front diff - with a locked front diff you lose front steering (turnin) because of no diff action, so you have to increase the bite at the front to make up for it. . .so we discussed using the rear tower at the front.

What do you refer to when you say shim up?

O ya does anyone else CVD's(composite) really get dirty at the joint? Mine seems like its shreding. It made the closest bearing get really dirty compared to others.