TC3trinity

I guess the blue main shaft is a std. part in the FT kit as mine came with it. Also the new arms and NTC3 diff cases. Just finished building it.....one very sweet car Can't wait to run it

AGR#7

I guess many of you have also encountered the same thing with installing a new servo- having to trim, etc... Spaz456 had indicated to me, that he trimmed the servo tabs to get it to fit down into the tub. We both have the KO Propo PDS-2143. I would like it a whole better if it just dropped in like the old one. I know the Hitec HS-5925MG should drop right in. I might exchange it.

As far as the drive shaft, I have the blue IRS.

Here's a good question. Is there a way for the steering turnbuckle 'not' to rub the drive shaft when it gets to near full Right turn?

todddd41

iTrader: (2)

Dingus- I went back and looked, the one I saw was actually for the NTC3. Good thing I didn't order it.

BrettBowen

Hey guys, this is the first time I've really checked out this forum, way cool! The TC3 is my first and only Touring car, I love the shaft drive...also way cool. I was wondering what you guys did to make the drive-train as free as possible. I've heard people say grind here grind there. As of now I pretty much just keep my bearings clean... I have heard Cyrul's tires start spinning backwards after they are done spinning forwards on the stand, wouldn't that be wicked!

Any imput would be greatly appreciated.

-Brett

Lab-driver

Quicky-There's some things you can do, all are fairly simple:
1. You can grind where the bearings rest in the gearoboxes. Go slowly. I used a dremel tool with a large and small grinding stones.

2. Remove one of the seals on the bearings, and degrease them with motor cleaner. Don't put the shield back on. Reinstall the bearings, and make sure the shielded side faces outside.

3. Don't use any shims on the diff and only one shim on the shaft inputs.

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

AGR#7. My Servo link clears the driveshaft on a full right turn. With the wheels pointed straight ahead and the servo centered, the servo arm points to the left of the car a little rather than straight up. There is a picture in the manual. Maybe this is the problem. Another problem might be the servo arm is too long if you did not use an arm supplied in the kit.

Racin Rev

How are you locking your diffs? Who is currently making solid diffs? what are they made out of? How much are they? Finally, what do you think of them? Thanks.

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

Rev, IRS is making a blue anodized locked front axle. It comes with a gear so all you have to do is drop it in. You can get them on line or at local hobby shop. You should be able to pick one up for around 20 bucks.

As for how they work, I have been told that you will lose a little steering going into the turn but it pulls like a car with a oneway when you get back on the throttle. They work good when there is a no oneway rule.

Kraig

AGR#7

John:
Hello. I am getting ready to install a KO Propo PDS-2143 Servo, and I will make sure I get the correct "J" Servo Horn as indicated in the manual. I also noticed this on some other
TC3s. Only a small amount of rubbing, but some nonetheless.

Question... Do you a have book out on TC3 setups, or was the other thread referring to another car? Thanks!

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

AGR+7- If you tilt the servo arm more to the left of the car then the servo link is going down as it gets close to the shaft. Also insure that your two steering links are the same length. The book is a general book covering Electric RC concentrating on Touring Cars with some off-road discussions. See my WWW above.

AGR#7

Thanks, much appreciated. I am relatively new to this, and will be racing my first season in 2003. As I have previously mentioned, my TC3 is somewhat modified, and I am now upgrading the electronics area, having just recently purchased a KO EX-1 radio, the Servo, and next will be a new ESC. Either the Novak GT-7, or Keyence Zero V Extreme. I did purchase my TC3 used, and you know what? The Servo horn always did point straight up at center, and I see now that it should be leaning over slighty to center about 1/16". I'm learning! Oh; by the way; I like the AGR+7-. Ha! It actually stands for Andretti Green Racing #7 (Michael's new car number in the IRL next year). Actually; more a CART, F1, Sports Car fan, but I will follow Michael Andretti in his endeavors. I am a true Andretti fan.

Your book looks informative. I might need to purchase that in the near future.

Racin Rev

Thanks Kraig. Might I be able to find these at my local on line hobby shop? Would this be somthing that you would carry to the track in your bag of supplies? Hopefully my wife is ready to release me back to the track, that is, as soon as this baby discovers that night is for sleeping and day is for being up.

todddd41

iTrader: (2)

Question-
I've been reading on this thread about grinding material on the gearbox case where the outdrive bearings seat. I looked closely at my gear cases, and it looks like there already is a slight depression molded in to clear the bearing. Is this just not enough clearance?

Northerner

iTrader: (1)

a buddy of mine just got a new FT tc3 and his kit came with the new two shock hole a-arms, and the aluminum driveshaft is half the size of my irs shaft.
he weighed it and it weighs half as much as the composite shaft? does anybody have a part number for the new shaft?

AGR#7

Have you called Associated to ask them? I have an IRS shaft also. That new one sounds good. Here's Associated's #:
(714) 850-9342 I may try to give them a call today.