Mike F

cool, thanks boomer

Boomer

No problem Mike!

Mike

Lowrance

iTrader: (30)

Might try lubing the servo saver with some black AE thrust bearing grease.

johnbull

Hi Guys. Greetings from Malta.

TONY PHALEN.

Well done man. You have a great site. I particularly liked your definitions of the various terms.....oversteer, understeer, kick up, etc.

I have been in racing with real cars for almost 40 years - 9 years at RC. I have built my own successful, championship winning hill climb cars and am now slowly moving off racing the real cars, and concentrating more on RC which is also a business.

The discussion regarding locked front diffs is interesting. I have tried the other system, as used in 1/8 IC with a one way up front and a locked diff at the rear, but i cannot make it work well. I certainly intend trying the locked front, though i can imagine that it will needs lots of additional fiddling with springs etc to remove the front end push.

As I said, I haven't tried it yet. Does it make the car understeer into the corner under deceleration, or out of the corner on power?

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.

Fred Hubbard

iTrader: (6)

Hi Johnbull, I'm not TP but I also drive the Associated car, in fact TP and I visit the same tracks. In my experience, the locked front diff causes the car to understeer while entering the corner. It functions best when exiting the corner, due to the fact that it responds like a one-way under acceleration. Another added benefit is that you have the ability to use brake if needed using the locked diff, as you know is absent when using a front one-way.

Fred Hubbard

TPhalen

iTrader: (2)

Fred's right. That's exactly what it does. You do need to change the front end to make it aggressive on turn-in. This will counter the locked diff wanting to push.

One HUGE benefit is consistency. If you can set the car up pretty good and drive it, it WILL be fast because it's consistent. Now, this may not be the fastest on EVERY track. Long, sweeping tracks will still benefit from the one-way.

You'll just have to try it to see.

Off topic. Check out my Micro Grave Digger....heh ehh, fun project!
http://ebiz.netopia.com/competitionx/hpimonstermicro/

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

Hey there,

I am going to run Mod sedan really for the first time this winter. I am running on Ozite with foam tires. I am wondering what shock set-ups you guys are running for mod as a base? Shock oil and piston would be great to help me get started. The track is 80 X40 sometimes tight and sometimes more open. Always a couple 180's and a fast 90.
Just FYI-I am thinking on the front: 80 wt. #3 piton. In rear:60 wt. #2 piston.

FTD RACING

I have tried the locked front diff for the first time yesterday and found that it is very easy to drive apart from the major understeer while entering corners . I don't know of anyone in the UK using this set up so I need your help guys.

My set up is as follows

Front

60w oil
blue springs
no 2 piston
rear tower on frontshock in middle hole on tower
standard wishbones as the two hole ones not available in the UK yet
0 degree kick up
6 drop
4 degree caster
1 degree toe out
no roll bar
standard ackerman setting
top inner camber link
2 degree camber
5.5mm ride height
middle hole on tower



Rear

40w oil
silver springs
no 2 piston
3 degree toe in
2 degree camber
2 degree anti squat
top inner camber link
outer camber link on hub
medium wheel base

Others

CS22 tyres with standard inserts
cells back
vetra shell with full wing
MVP with 764 brushes
Its a smooth track with medium traction


What would you change to help reduce the understeer?

Attached are the websites for the track I race at hear in the UK

http://www.wlrc.co.uk Gearing 69/32
http://www.trccc.com/index.asp Gearing 69/30

rangulo

FTD racing- I think you only need to change a few things!

-Go to 30 or 35 shock oil all the way around.
-5 mm ride height
-1.5 camber front and rear
-put two white plactic shims under each of the three screws that hold down the shock tower to the diff case. This will allow you to get the 5mm ride height. You could also re-drill the A-arms and put a extra hole on the arms.
-Inside lower link F+R
-a bit of toe in
- standard anti-roll bar
-battery to the front
-shortes wheel base

This should give you alot of steering and if you need more go to the R+3+0 or R+2+2. Take away anti-squat and you give up some on-power steering.

D_Ames

iTrader: (1)

My sugestion....


1. Add both swaybars

2. Go to 30-35 weight oil (for an overall more responsive car)

3. Use the R+2+2 rear mount.



The new front arms will also help when you can get a hold of some.

Good Luck!

TPhalen

iTrader: (2)

rcracingfreak....nice logo!!!!!!

ROBORAT

iTrader: (7)

FTD:
- do away with the 60 wt oil up front. go 40 wt to even it out with the rear (or maybe 30 wt all around)
- use the rear R+2+2 mounts
- u dint mention rear droop but it should more than the front (more droop - lower on gauge) - say 4 on the gauge.
- move your cells forward

Boomer

FTD - they're right!

Primarily, I think your problem is the 60 wt oil. It just doesn't allow weight to transfer forward quickly enough to enable more steering - it makes your front too hard. If you drop down to 35-40 wt, it will soften your front up enabling slightly faster weight transfer which will give you better turn in.

I would do that first, and then, one at a time, do the other suggestions that rangulo, rcracingfreak and roborat gave.

johnbull

Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

Firstly thanks to everyone for help and suggestions with locked front diff set up.

FTD RACING. CML have got the new wishbones in stock so your local hobby shop should be able to help you. I have ordered a load, which should be here this week.

I have been spending more time playing with my son's TC3 in the last couple of months, than with my own MR4. I have tried all sorts of things and have brought my lap times down quite a way. I am no Spashett or Baker, but I do feel the changes, and in any case the Orion lap timer, which is used all the time, soon tells you whether the mods you have just done have made the car better or worse.

My son, on the other hand, has not been anywhere near the track for months. However yesterday be decided to honour us with his presence......just for a few minutes, on his way to rugby training. He took one look at the car and complained that i had changed so many things. I told him it felt quite a bit better, and suggested he tries it.

I had just made my best ever run with it, with a best lap of 18.1 and a 5 minute race average of 19.0. He had a go. Out lap from standstill - 18.1. Next lap 17.5. Next lap 17.3. Race average over 5 minutes 17.7. Closing lap 17.8.

Clearly the work I have been doing has been good, but what a deflation. Does old age really do so much damage to lap times?

I will leave this car as it is and set up his other TC3 with the locked front diff to see what happens. I'll try sticking to the 40 shock oil and soft set up first, and move on from there.

If I can persuade him down to the track again next week I will let you know results.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.

Dragon Slayer

Johnbull....I'm almost 40....i hope the reactions dont leave too soon...I feel i'm just getting warmed up