Looking for information and web pages with pictures and details on converting the rear of the TC3 to adjustable toe-in... This information was originally brought out a couple of years ago on about.com...

Any information would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Hey everyone. I am wondering how to tune the car for more traction or steering without changing tires. I am running on outdoor concrete that the track temp exceeds 110 degrees. I am currently running the reedy race setup and it seems to be doing well, but I was hoping to make the car even better. The car seems to start out loose early in the day and hooks up better as things heat up and the day wears on. I am wondering what I can change without changing tires to adjust for the car being a little loose or if the car is pushing. Thanks

Eric

if you want more rear traction try running 3 degrees of toe in, instead of 2. You can also try leaning the shock all the way in which also increases traction.

tfrahm: an easy way to adjust toe-in on a TC3 is by using the Losi rear hubs which I believe come in 1degree and 1/5 degree. So for example if you want to run 1 degree of toe in you can put the 2 degree block and use the Losi 1 degree block on opposite sides that they are mark giving you 1 degree, if you want 1.5 degrees just use the 1/2 degree blocks again in opposite sides and so on and so forth. It's very simple to do and you don't have to modify your TC3 in any way.

TP > I went to SoCal tonight and tried the Rear Shock Tower on the front with the new arms that I bought and I used the Reedy set-up. It seemed that I had way to much traction and not enough steering. What could I have done to help? I was thinking of moving the shocks to the outer holes in the rear or moving the shocks to the inner hole in the front. What do you think?

Thanks in advance...

Matt: you'll gave a sh*tload of rear traction, or I guess, it'll seem like you have NO steering. You'll need to play with the rear toe block, shock oils and springs. Also, try locking the front diff (crank that little spring down, baby!!!!). Seemed to work well at SoCal's high bite track.

RC Nitro: Ya. 4 degree casters will slow down the response. I personally liked the 0 degrees. Made the car very aggressive.

tfrahm: We played with that awhile ago. Best setup I saw was to make a carbon or G10 fiberglass rear bumper (similar to the stock rear bumper, but flat) and attach the balls to it. Then replace the rear suspension with matching front suspension. Link the steering arms from the new bumper to the arms. Pretty simple, actually. Just seems like alot of work. Sigearhead's setup is typically what we use....

Sigearhead and TPhalen....:

Thanks for the tip -- I've found part numbers for 0, 0.5, and 1.0 degree hubs from LOSI, so I could really dial in rear toe-in the EASY way! THANKS!

One follow up question: ?Any problems with the CVD axles on the TC3 -- are the LOSI hubs the same "width" so that the same axles will work (I know the bearings, etc. are the same size, just thinking that if the LOSI hub is "wider", it might cause a problem)....

THANKS again!

Not to be "picky", but NONE of the setups on your site that I checked say anything about the LOSI hub "trick"... (I checked there so I wouldn't bug you with any questions that the setup sheets would answer for me.)

Since the location of the outer ballstud for the upper rear link is different on the LOSI hub, any tips (which hole to use, etc.) would also be appreciated.

Thanks TP. I twist the wheel to much and been driving nitro's with 10 degree caster for the last 3 years. Going to zero is to much for me.

tfram:

The Losi rear hubs are exactly the same width as the associated hubs. The bearings and bearing spacers fit perfectly. The outer link position (away from the wheel) of the Losi rear hub is the same location as the standard Associated hub. Basically, the Losi hubs are practically a direct replacement. The only thing you need are shims since there is more slop between the Losi hub and the associated arm.

An added benefit of the Losi rear hub is the option to use the inner link (towards the wheel) for an longer overall link. This makes the car rotate a little bit slower and slightly more stable coming out of corners.

Good luck and happy tuning.

Hi Matt!

For so-cal, I am using the new front arms with the standard front shock tower. It seems to work for me as I could not get the car to steer aggresively with the rear shock tower up front trick. A couple of people who race with me went back to the standard front shock tower and seem to agree.

late!

tfram

ahhh, I remember those days. I think I was the one who first posted the adjustable rear toe trick on about.com many years ago. That was back when the 2 deg rear blocks weren't even availiable yet and we were all stuck with 3 deg rear toe and not a lot of steering. Basically, due to the change in the wheel base (either longer or shorter depending on how you flip the front arm), and due to the natural slop in the rear toe from the ballcups - the car never felt planted and agressive at the same time.

TP > Ya I thought of those as well, I guess I was just lazy and did not want to touch it. It was fun fully cranking the steering wheel way ahead of the turn and not even close to spinning out :)
What I also thought of was putting the one way back in, doh!

Would making the wheelbase mid or long help as well? I have it set up short.

Ling > Thanks for the tip, i may try that next time. I want to try the rear tower on the front for a while and see if i can dial it in.

The amazing thing is that I am still using the same Sorex 36rs from the Vegas Nationals. These tires never wear out.

Thanks again.....

Am I correct in thinking that the reason you run the rear shock tower on the front is to make the shocks more upright? so does this make more or less steering TP?

Thanks

Hey guys, please vote for #7 in the body painting contest. Its on my TC3:blush: