Can anyone tell me if the blue alloy screw kit includes the screws for the chassis underside?

Does anyone one from the UK know where to get the RPM blue ball end cups or something similar?

Thanks.

Yorkie

Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

More TC3 results. Christmas Cup 23/12/2001. Malta.

Mod TC.

1st JOSHUA ANASTASI TC3 / Corally motor / Corally cells / Novak speedo / KO Propo servo.

2nd JOE ANASTASI MR4 (that's me) / Corally/Corally/Novak/KO.

3rd HAYDEN SCIBERRAS TC3 /Corally/LRP/Novak/KO.

1 hour endurance. Standard 27 turn motor.

1st TC3.

Happy Christmas.

regards

Joe from sunny Malta.

Yes, the blue AL screw set is for almost all screws of the car (excepting those who isn't advisable to put in AL: suspension, cells holding system and motor clamp).

Have you taked a look on Apex Models?

Thanks Corse-R,

I am in the middle of rebuilding my old TC3 and need to get some new parts.

Found the RPM ball cups on the Apex web site.

My CVDs need replacing but I was thinking that the composite drive shafts would have less weight and therefore less rotating mass. What do other people think? They would also be cheaper to replace in future.

I may end up buying a Racer kit and transfering the Ti turnbuckles and shock bodies, as this may be a cheaper option than buying all the individual spares that I need????

I'll be using the finished version for indoor stock racing at club level.

Yorkie

If you need so many pieces, maybe it's better to buy a new car and swap the accesories to the new car. If you have better accesories you can simply put in the new car. I did it now four times with my TC3 (is like a phoenix) :sneaky:

Take a good look to the IRS plastic CVD's and the Aluminium input shafts, they're worth every penny and with the plastic diffs you reduce to the maximum the inertia on the transom (I've used with mod motors ).

Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

Yorkie. We have had very little trouble with TC3 alloy drive shafts. We run mod - see results of Christmas Cup meeting in yesterday's posts, on a grippy tarmac surface, so there is plenty of load on the transmission. I replaced my son's TC3 drive shafts at the start of the season, just to start off with a new set, just as I like to start off the season with many new bits as a precautionary measure. Incidentally we also use the "factory team" plastic diff halves. They are the lightest/strongest combination presently available.

I have sold plenty of TC3s, and indeed quite a few of them run in modithout any drive shaft problems. I sell many more MR4 drive shafts than TC3.

A happy Christmas to everyone.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.

Johnbull,

Thanks for the info.
I have no problems with the durability of the alloy CVDs as these have lasted about 2 years (original issue) and lasted very well IMO.

I was just wondering what the advantage was of running the alloy compared to the composite? I race mostly stock with the TC3 and I am curious to know how much of a difference the alloy CVDs make?

I'm not into pretty "eye candy" and prefer sensible solutions.
Plus, as the handle suggests, I'm from Yorkshire, UK and as tight as an Duck's behind!!!

Merry Christmas to all and thanks for all the suggestions and help over the last year

Yorkie

When I rebuilt my tc3 all 4 of my aluminum cvds were bent. I KNOW that wasnt helping my laps times. I switched to the composite ones because they don't bent and if they break I know right away and dont have to wait until I rebuild it to find out. They are also MUCH cheaper. I couldnt really tell you if it will make you faster because I replaced so many on my car when I rebuilt it (IRS converstion, all the graphite parts, etc.) that I don't know what made me faster.

We race on carpet and changed our front end set up to 0 degree kickup and 4 degree caster blocks. Made a big difference in snappy steering; gained a lap on the current track layout.

Also tried out a used set of TRC foams yesterday and I am now a foam fan! Our track owner is interpreting recent ROAR rules and will be allowing either foams or rubber during our point series races.

Yorkie:

If you race stock, your best bet should grab some plastic CVD's and try to do the transmission as light as possible (less weight = less inertia).

If you put some 'shiny' CVD's you ruin all the advantages from the transmission of the TC3 putting weight on the transmission.

The power of your stock motor is very limited and every gram that you need to accelerate and brake is power lost to the wheels.

Corse-R,

Thanks for the info, that's was pretty much my train of thought also.

I think I'll order the racer kit after New Year and rob all the drivetrain parts.

Does the new racer kit come with droop screws in the wishbones and the composite outdrives?

Thanks,

Yorkie

The racer kit does come with the droop screw suspension arms. It still has the steel outdrives in it, but I will check to make sure.

SoCal Racin'
 

Tony,

Me and a couple of guys from Scottsdale were talking about taking a weekend roadtrip to the SoCal area. Any specific weekends stick out? What about race days? Is there a rotation where we could race Fri, Sat & Sun among a few tracks? Thanks, late...

Brent Thielke

racer kit
 

The racer kit has the plastic outdrives also ( bought one Feb 2001) , they are much cheaper than the steel units so it only makes sense to put them in there.